Basel… Who wouldda thought this town could be so much fun!

9,127 steps, 1 castle, 2 churches 3 culture

Basel
DSC03296 Basel Barbie France Germany Switzerland x
Barbara at the border of France/Germany/Switzerland. Dreiländereck (Three Countries’ Corner), which juts out into the Rhine, is one of Basel’s more unusual sites. If you walk around a pylon marking the spot, in just a few steps you can cross from Switzerland into Germany and then into France — and you don’t even need a passport (Frommers.com)

Basel, Switzerland is a little jewel in the Alsace.  (Say it like this:  Bah-sel and Alls-ace.)   One night we parked in France and walked across a footbridge to Germany for a Chinese dinner while visiting with friends from Switzerland.  It was done with about as much fanfare as parking in South Russel to have dinner in Chagrin Falls with friends from the west side of Cleveland.  No big deal to the locals but awesome to me.

DSC02808 Basel x
Alsace by day
DSC02841 Basel x
Alsace by night
DSC02943 Stephan Graenacher x
Our Basel Friend, Stephan

We traveled to Basel for two reasons – first to meet with Maureen’s Mardi Gras friend, Stephan.  He grew up in Basel so showed us around town, plus drove us to Interlaken, Lucerne, and Girl Scout’s Our Chalet.  What we thought would be a pleasant break in our travels turned out to be great fun thanks to Stephan’s energy.

DSC02277 Basel Rachel Stephan Maureen x
Rachel, Stephan and Maureen in Basel

The second reason for our stay over in Basel was that we launched from Basel on our riverboat tour via Viking up the Rhine River to Amsterdam.  Basel marked a turning point in our tour as Maureen and I took the river boat, Rachel traveled to Bruges to visit friends for the week and Tracy returned home to the US.  We thought of Basel as the Viking launching pad but it turned out that Basel was a grand adventure in itself!

DSC02274 Basel from Rhine River
Basel, Switzerland

Airbnb.com

We booked most of our reservations through Airbnb.com with outstanding results.  We rented real people’s homes in real neighborhoods.  The homes were roomy, convenient, and reasonably priced.  For about $150 a night, three or four of us stayed in homes that were clean and comfortable, included a refrigerator, and often included a washer and dryer.  Our three criteria were that we did not want stairs (we were carrying our own luggage), we needed wifi, and we wanted to be the only lodgers.  This was our lodging in the Alsace:

DSC03317 Basel AirBnB x

DSC03308 Basel AirBnB x

DSC03313 Basel Air BnB x

DSC03312 Basel AirBnB x

We each had our own sleeping areas (three bedrooms plus two bathrooms) and a full yard.  Our hosts even left us breakfast food in the fridge.  Absolutely perfect.

Rhine River

The Rhine River drew settlers to this important transportation hub well before the birth of Christ.  Today it remains a key stop on the Rhine.

DSC03476 Basel Rhine River x
Rhine River, Basel
DSC02813 Basel Rhine River x
The Rhine is a working river
DSC02285 Basel Braille x
This braille model shows the medeival heart of Basel, the city on the hill with the cathedral and St. Martin’s Church. According to the plaque, it is desiged to be used by the visually impaired as well as by everyone else.
DSC03474 Basel Rhine River Ferry x
Hand-operated ferry over the Rhine River
DSC02273 Basel Rhine River Ferry
Pulleys used on a hand-operated ferry that crosses the Rhine throughout the day

DSC03476 Basel Rhine River x

DSC03416 Basel x

Doorways of Basel

I was fascinated by the doorways of Basel.  The doors are old, really, old.  Like before Columbus-set-foot-in-America old.  It’s a simple matter of telling just how old a home is – it’s written right on the front of the house.

DSC03506 Basel house 1438 x
This house was built in 1438
DSC03493 Basel dated doorway 1390 x
This house was built in 1390.
DSC03492 Basel dated door 1486 x
This house was built in 1486
DSC03439 Basel Door Date x
This house was built in 1333.
DSC03510 Basel 1437 x
The building on the left was built in 1437, as were the stairs
DSC03486 BAsel oldest structure x
This is Basel’s oldest structure, built well before 1300.

DSC03432 Basel x

DSC03505 Basel and River Rhine x

Basel’s Town Hall (Rathaus Basel)

Basel’s 500-year-old town hall is locally referred to as the Roothuus, a play on words that means councilhouse but sounds like red house in the Basel dialect.  This cute play of words is so appropriate because the town hall is RED.

DSC03516 Basel City Hall x
Rathaus Basel
DSC03538 City Hall x
The Rathaus was built in 1501 and updated in 1901 – a sign over the door gives you that information thanks to the architects
DSC03527 Basel City Hall x
Imagine you work at the Rathaus and get to walk through these doors every day! When I worked at City Hall in Columbus, Ohio years ago, it certainly did not look like this.
DSC03525 Basel City Hall x
Interior courtyard of the Basel Rathaus
DSC03524 Basel City Hall x
Basel Rathaus

Paintings around the exterior of the Basel Rathaus extoll the virtues of citizenship:

DSC02309 Basel There is agreement where God dwells x
There is agreement where God dwells.
DSC02308 Basel what goes round comes round x
What goes round, comes round.
DSC02307 Basel Freedom is more important than silver and gold x
Freedom is more important than silver and gold.

 

Basel Signage

Basels signs date from a time when all people could not read.  So when you hung your sign, you made sure it included a symbol of what service was offered by you.  Can you tell what these two establishments offer?

DSC03428 Basel x

DSC03425 Basel x

Basel’s Munster (Cathedral)
DSC02270 Basel Munster
Basel’s Munster, built between 1019 and 1500

 

Basel’s red sandstone cathedral was built by the Catholics but is now a reformed protestant church.  Many of the artworks of the cathedral were destroyed during the reformation when Huldrych Zwingli condemned idolatry and the church was stormed by townspeople.  The colorful roof tiles can be seen from all over Basel, making a good landmark for touring.

DSC02251 Basel Munster
The Galluspforte, the oldest surviving figure portal in German speaking countries
DSC02224 Basel Munster
Knight Georg slaying a very small dragon on Basel’s Munster
DSC03466 Basel Munster x
This is the rose window over St Catherine’s chapel from the outside
DSC03457 Basel Munster x
This is the rose window over St Catherine’s chapel from the inside

DSC03461 Basel Munster x

DSC02241 Basel Munster
Side window of Basel’s Munster
DSC02227 Basel Munster
Stained glass over the altar of Basel’s Munster
DSC03467 Basel Munster x
The cloisters of Basel’s cathedral
DSC03469 Basel Munster Musician x
Street musicians performed throughout Europe, including this young lute player in the cloisters of Basel’s Munster

 

 Bathrooms
DSC02638 Basel toilet x
When’s the last time you found a public bathroom this clean? We experienced clean bathrooms throughout most of Europe.
DSC03552 Basel Portapotty x
But there is also this alternative located in a Basel town square

DSC03553 Basel Portapotty x

DSC03531 Basel x
The water pouring from public fountains is safe to drink
DSC03554 Basel fountain x
Basel watering trough for horses and humans
Real Fondue!

Stephan invited us to his home for authentic cheese fondue with his parents.  Ladies, this man is available and he’s a catch!  Not only is he a humorous host, he’s also a great cook.

DSC02330 Stephan x
Our friend Stephan

We were so lucky to visit Stephan’s family home and meet his charming parents.  These dishes are part of his mother’s collection.

DSC02937 Basel x
Stephan’s mother’s china. Each dish showcased a famous site or story of Switzerland.

DSC02326 BAsel x

DSC02327 Basel x

International Dining

We got to see Switzerland through Stephan’s eyes as his home rather than a destination.  He said when he was born, his family was living in France (or was it Germany?) but when it came time to give birth, his parents made sure Stephan was born across the river in Switzerland so he would have Swiss citizenship like his parents.  Stephan thinks nothing of traveling between France, Germany and Switzerland but it was a huge treat for me.

We parked our car in France and crossed the Rhine River via a footbridge to Germany for a Chinese food feast with Stephan and his parents.  The food was prepared with a light hand and just delicious.  Stephan waived off the doggy bags and told us people don’t carry away left over food like we do in America.

DSC02831 (1) Alsace x

DSC03305 Basel China Restaurant Rhinepark x

DSC03302 Basel China Restaurant Rhinepark x

DSC02303 Basel Schiesser Cafe x
Just in case we needed a McDonald’s fix…but the real draw is the famous Schiesser Cafe
Switzerland’s independence

Stephan’s very proud of his heritage and he should be.  Switzerland’s legacy of independence has been hard-won and is protected with vigilance.  For example, fortified caves strengthened during WWII still line the mountains and until the very recent past, every home and building was required to have a bomb shelter.

DSC03040 Our Chalet x bomb shelter
This is a photo of a bomb shelter at Girl Scouts’ Our Chalet, about an hour from Basel. It’s high up a mountain with no strategic points nearby but it does have a bomb shelter. Vigilance is what protects Switzerland’s independence.
Driving in Switzerland

DSC01278 Basel Highway x

Stephan drove us swiftly through crowded city streets, breath-taking mountain passes, and flawless freeways punctuating the ride with lots of “asshole!” and “shitty drivers!” He pointed out special spots with colorful remarks and skipped most of the touristy stuff that was beginning to jade us.  Of course, every time something didn’t go our way during the rest of our trip, we’d look at each other and say, “assholes!”

DSC02354 Stephan driving in Switzerland
This is Stephan driving us to Our Chalet in Switzerland. Note the comfortable car, complete with onboard GPS system, and me taking photos of EVERYTHING with my little Cannon camera with the Zeiss lens.
Swiss mountain road
Swiss mountain road
Swiss road construction
Swiss road construction
DSC02935 Basel Industry x
Industry along the freeways carry mottos and advertising
Parking garages are easy to find, clean, and automated. Red lights indicate the parking spot is taken, green lights tells you the spot is free. Check out is also automated with machines and instructions located on each level of the garages.
Parking garages are easy to find, clean, and automated. Red lights indicate the parking spot is taken, green lights tells you the spot is free (not sure why the spot we just parked i is still showing green). Check out is also automated with machines and instructions located on each level of the garages.
Parking garage elevator - easy to understand and almost always in English
Parking garage elevator – easy to understand and almost always in English
Basel street scenes

DSC03430 Basel x

DSC03481 Basel Stumblestone x
Stumblestone in Basel

DSC03417 Basel x

DSC02215 Basel street art
Basel street art

DSC03411 Basel x

This quirky water feature included several steam-punk-like water fountains that were interesting to look at, yet strange.  I think I lacked context to understand what was going on – yet, I watched fascinated.

DSC02294 Basel love locks Middle Rhine Bridge x
Basel love locks on the Middle Rhine Bridge

DSC03533 Basel Frank Carl Weber x

DSC03550 Basel Museum of broken relationships x

DSC02319 Basel street art x
The Morrison Hotel, Basel
DSC02317 Basel street art x
The Morrison Hotel, Basel
DSC02316 Basel Morrison Hotel x
The Morrison Hotel, Basel

DSC02565 Basel x

DSC02765 Basel shop window x

DSC02707 (1) Basel souvenirs x

DSC03419 Basel x

DSC03496 Basel x

DSC03422 Basel Apple Store x

DSC03421 Basel ad for hot yoga x

DSC03435 Basel Schoolyard x
Basel school yard recess

DSC03431 Basel Gelateria x

DSC03485 Swiss Flag x

Basel is the best!
DSC03295 Basel x
Maureen, Barbara, Stephan, Stephan’s parents, Tracy

It was hard saying good-bye to Stephan and his family.  They were caring hosts with a twinkle in their eyes that said happy times were close by.

I looked for information on Basel and tourism and found almost nothing on the internet or in tour books.  But Basel is lively, happy, livable, and worth time to visit.  I found it in many ways to be more approachable and more interesting than Lucerne and definitely a better destination than Zurich.  So let’s keep this between us so it doesn’t get over-run with tourists:  Basel is a worthy destination in Switzerland.

 

 

Abelboden: Our Chalet

Girl Scout’s World Site:  Our Chalet

Switzerland. If this were a ski slope, I'd be perched atop the ski jump entering the black diamond course.
Barbara at Our Chalet, hanging on for dear life. If this were a ski slope, I’d be perched atop the ski jump entering the black diamond course.
This was my view from Our Chalet
This was my view from Our Chalet

A visit to the Girl Scout’s Our Chalet was a must for our journey because Maureen, Tracy, Rachel and I got to know each other more than 25 years ago through an on-line chat site on Prodigy for Girl Scout leaders.  We were all leaders of Girl Scout troops looking for ideas that worked for other leaders throughout the country.  While finding ideas, we also found each other.

We were once a group of more than 100 men and women who chatted day and night – you’ll never believe what one person can do with a bandanna or a can of pie filling and a box of cake mix.  Our troops got the great benefit of Girl Scout ideas from people we never would have met locally — this was before the growth of the internet — but we made friends for life.  We are now a group of about 12 and we still talk daily, throughout the day.  But for this very special trip, there are four of us:  Maureen from New Orleans, Tracy from Richmond, VA,  Rachel from Columbia, MD and Barbara from near St. Petersburg, FL.

DSC02992 Our Chalet x
Tracy and Rachel at Our Chalet. Thanks to Tracy for many of these photos.

So, of course, we had to visit Our Chalet, WAGGGS world center in the Bernese Oberland.  I expected a big camp site in a chalet high in the Swiss alps with caper charts, places to cook, paths to climb, and lots of camp fire circles.  That’s exactly what we discovered.  I was surprised to find the site a bit smaller than expected and quite shabby due to the constant use of troops from all over the world.  But it’s a camp site, not a resort.

Orientation at Our Chalet
Orientation at Our Chalet

In spite of cold and spotty rain (which marked so many of our camp outs as leaders),  I was so excited to finally visit Our Chalet. There was a big troop of girl guides and boy scouts staying there from England and like every camp out I’ve ever been on, we became quite friendly very quickly.  We received an orientation video and tour with this troop from the interns.

Interns are selected from all over the world to spend six months at Our Chalet in one of four areas:  kitchen, program, guest services, or marketing and communications.  During our stay, I had a chance to speak with a charming intern from Oregon who was taking a brief break after her freshman studies in biology to live at Our Chalet.  She introduced me to a guide from Zimbabwe who was practicing her English and to a husband-wife team from England.

On the day that we visited, the husband had been hiking when he discovered a suitcase alongside the road.  When it was still there on his return trip, he picked it up and brought it to Our Chalet.  He said sooner or later someone would claim it.  You could tell the husband-wife team knew exactly how to interact with guests:  be quick, be friendly, get out.

Our photos tell a better story of Our Chalet.

Sign pointing to Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Sign pointing to Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
DSC02362 Our Chalet 2015 x
Here’s how to start your world centre story today
DSC02363 Our Chalet 2015 x
Entrance to Our Chalet
DSC02462 Our Chalet 2015 x
I got to put a pin in the world map representing my visit from St. Petersburg, Florida. My pin was one of hundreds representing the USA and one of several from the Tampa area.
DSC03046
Girl Scouts carry on silly traditions as part of the fun. This little wooden beaver gets hidden throughout out each day and when found by the visiting Girl Scouts it’s just one more reason to celebrate with giggles.
Bertha the Bell
Bethany the Bell – everything seems to have a nickname at Our Chalet

Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland

Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland

DSC02433 Our Chalet 2015 x
Our guide points out the location of Our Chalet in Adelboden
The chairs were donated by Scouts including this chair sponsored by a Florida troop.
The chairs we sat in to watch the orientation were donated by Scouts including this chair sponsored by a Florida troop.
Patches represent the thousands of visits from traveling scouts.
Patches represent the thousands of visits from traveling scouts.
This chest is at least 500 years old, donated by some Girl Scout at some point in time but the explanation is lost to history. Nevertheless, the chest is used every day and battered by the thousands of visiting scouts.
This chest is at least 500 years old, donated by some Girl Scout at some point in time but the explanation is lost to history. Nevertheless, the chest is used every day and battered by the thousands of visiting scouts.
Little flags in a log mark the origins of guests visiting Our Chalet on any given day.
Little flags in a log mark the home countries of guests visiting Our Chalet on any given day.
Indoor fire circle
Indoor fire circle
Hand-carved fire starters
Hand-carved fire starters
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Door latch at Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Door latch at Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
DSC02414 Our Chalet 2015 x
Shoes off inside all lodges, keeping the dirt down.

DSC02367
Tracy finds instant common ground with one of the executives at Our Chalet.
DSC02390 Our Chalet 2015 x

A visiting troop of girl and boy scouts from England hiked up to Our Chalet singing and skipping. We arrived by car at the chalet huffing and puffing.

Loved this badge on one of the scout's backpacks
Loved this badge on one of the scout’s backpacks
The P-nuts with Girl Guide leaders from England. Note our matching jackets embroidered by Tracy before the trip.
The P-nuts with Girl Guide leaders from England. Note our matching jackets embroidered by Tracy before the trip.
Hiking path leading to/from Our Chalet
Hiking path leading to/from Our Chalet
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
DSC02391 Our Chalet 2015 x
Baby Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
DSC03017 Our Chalet x
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Water is potable. Note the sign that says the source of this water is from a local reservoir.
DSC02398 Our Chalet 2015 x
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
DSC03081 Our Chalet x
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland
Scouts are into outdoor activities but I'm thinking we'd have a hard time getting council to approve this one.
Scouts are into outdoor activities but I’m thinking we’d have a hard time getting council to approve this skydiving sport.
DSC03010 Our Chalet x
I’ll probably never return here, but I have wonderful memories of Our Chalet, Adelboden, Switzerland

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Copenhagen: Good friends are worth waiting for

Four long-time friends visited Europe in summer 2015, traveling from the USA and meeting up in Copenhagen.  Maureen and I flew from Orlando, Florida and after a delightful Norwegian Air flight, arrived in  Copenhagen on time.  Our friends Rachel and Tracy, traveling from Washington, D.C., flew WOW airlines and were supposed to be waiting for us at the Copenhagen airport.  But when we arrived, they weren’t there.

With spotty phone service and WOW Airline’s poor communication, we spent most of our first day in Europe trying to find Rachel and Tracy who were stranded in Reykjavik.  They were supposed to arrive at 11 am but WOW finally delivered them at 4 am, the next day, only 15 hours late.

After much debate and constantly changing information (the plane will be here in one hour, no, three hours, no, four hours), we decided to travel into Copenhagen and settle into our airbnb accommodations.  We then poked around the neighborhood, napped, and checked back with WOW throughout the day and night hoping to figure out when Tracy and Rachel would arrive.

The Copenhagen airport sign shows expectations for WOW's arrive but they stopped listing an arrival time after several hours.
The Copenhagen airport sign shows expectations for WOW’s arrive but they stopped listing an arrival time after several hours.

When at last we were reasonably sure the plane had left Reykjavik, and with 2 hours of sleep, Maureen and I rode the train back to the airport to bring our friends home.  …. Scroll down for one of the best surprises of our late night out.

Euronuts' arrival at Copenhagen Airport: Tracy, Maureen, Rachel, Barbara
Euronuts’ arrival at Copenhagen Airport: Tracy, Maureen, Rachel, Barbara
DSC00184 Copenhagen airport x
We have so much to catch up on but we are sooooooo tired.

 

The public transit ticket office is closed at 4 am.
The public transit ticket office is closed at 4 am.
Walking down the street in Copenhagen at 4:00 am
Walking down the street in Copenhagen at 4:00 am

We took the Copenhagen metro from our lodging to the airport.  But while traveling at 2 am, we were stunned to learn the metro was closed halfway to the airport.  A Danish-Vietnamese man appeared out of no where and became our guardian angel.  Sourace helped us locate an alternate train and traveled with us until we were once again safely on our way.

Sourace, our guardian angel at 2:00 am
Sourace, our guardian angel at 2:00 am

We learned Sourace had moved to Denmark as a 4-year-old after leaving a quiet village in the south of Viet Nam.  We discussed immigration, health care (with, as usual, diverse views from Maureen and Barbara), the value of a college education, free higher education in Denmark, and the beauty of both Denmark and Vietnam.  Sourace glowed from within and we were charmed by his fluent English, his intelligence, and his help.

We hoped  we would run into Sourace again while in Denmark, but we didn’t.  If you’re ever lost on a train late at night in Copenhagen, look for Sourace or another kind soul in Denmark.  You’ll find your angel, too.

THE EURONUTS ARE MADLY PACKING! 2015.08.01

 

DSC00058 Barbara

After tonight I’ll be sleeping in someone else’s bed/couch/blow-up-mattress for the next 70 days.  But I’m not enjoying the luxury of my own bed – I’m hopping around the house taking a bottle of lotion out of my bag (I’ll buy it in Denmark), ruefully ditching the pile of magazines I planned to read on the plane (here, seatmate, are you looking for something to read?) and taking a favorite blouse out of the bag, putting it back in, then wistfully taking it out again.  How will I live with just 44 pounds of stuff for the next two months?  Here’s my final packing list.

My traveling companion Maureen nicely summed up our adventure:

It’s not really a secret – just didn’t think y’all would be that interested in it.  It started off as a trip to visit Melody (Maureen’s daughter in the Netherlands) while she’s there and to take the river cruise from Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam that has been on my bucket list forever. I think I had mentioned this and Barbara said she’d love to go -and since traveling with friends is usually more fun than traveling alone, I jumped at the chance. So then there were 2. Then Rachel & Tracy said they’d like to go, too – so then we were 4.

We leave for Copenhagen on the 3rd (arriving on the 4th).  That wasn’t on the original plans, but flights to there were cheap, so we added it.  We spend a few days there, then fly to Berlin for a couple days.  Then we take a night train to Vienna. After a couple days there we will rent a van and will be driving to Salzburg for a day.  Then on to Munich, where we have a private guide, Tracy’s cousin.  We go from there to Basel. While in Basel we’re going to do a day trip to Our Chalet, Interlocken, and Lucerne.  When we’re done in Basel, Barbara & I head out on the Viking cruise; Rachel & Tracy head to Amsterdam to spend the night with Melody. Tracy flies home from Amsterdam the next day & Rachel heads off to visit friends in Bruges, Belgium.

Barbara & I cruise the Rhine for 8 days, ending in Amsterdam, where we meet back up with Rachel. We spend several days in The Netherlands, staying with Melody and seeing Amsterdam, Rotterdam, Delft, Gouda, The Hague as well as a day trip to Antwerp & Bruges, Belgium.  We spend Melody’s birthday with her and then head to France.

After leaving Melody, we take a train to Brussels (and Waterloo), and then on to Paris where we pick up a rental car and drive to Fontainbleau for the night. We see the Chateau the next day, then drive to Bayeux stopping at Mont St Michel on the way.  We spend a day on the Normandy coast, then head back to Paris – stopping at Monet’s house & gardens on the way. We drop the car & spend several days in Paris.

We then take a train to Chur, Switzerland (stopping in Zurich for a while on the way) for the night.  We take the Bernina Express from there through the Alps to Italy.  We spend a couple days in Milan (where EXPO 2015 will be taking place).  From there we go to Venice, Florence, Rome & Naples (to see Pompeii & Herculaneum).  Our last stop is Barcelona.  Rachel flies back from there and Barbara & I take an 11 day Disney cruise to Miami.

We then head to Orlando for the Food & Wine Festival.  I should return home about Oct. 12 – unless I decide to extend my vacation.  I doubt that will happen because I leave for the KOE Kruise on Nov. 1!

So, I’m guessing this is going to be an epic trip and only hope I can keep up!!!!

Want to join us?  We’d love for you to come along.  (I really thought we were allowed 50 pounds of luggage – egad!)

DSC00045 Maureen and Barbara

Oberommergau – the drive through art museum

My friend Sher promised me a drive-through art museum. I love art and my feet hurt so I was all about a drive through art museum. Fun!

What I didn’t expect was a town of hand-painted houses in the middle of Bavaria.  The “Lüftlmalerei” follow themes of religion and fairytales; many homes feature tromp-l’oeil architectural details.  It’s hard to keep your eyes on the road as your head swivels from side to side trying to take in the colorful frescoes.  So get out and walk!

I wasn't the only one snapping photos!
I wasn’t the only one snapping photos!
Lüftlmalerei
Can you see the architectural detail painted onto this building? Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Can you see the architectural detail painted onto this building? Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
This house features a religious theme. Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
This house features a religious theme. Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
This house features a story and architectural details, all hand painted. Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Close up of painting. Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Close up of painting. Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammegau Lüftlmalerei
Oberammegau Lüftlmalerei
Woodcarving shop AND painting in Oberammergau
Woodcarving shop AND painting in Oberammergau
I discovered this dark blue painting - definitely about the Passion Play in Oberammergau 2015
I discovered this dark blue painting – definitely about the Passion Play in Oberammergau 2015
Woodcarving

The Bavarian State Woodcarving School is located in Oberommergau.  Just like St. Petersburg, Florida is filled with countless lawyers thanks to Stetson Law School, Oberommergau houses dozens of woodcarving shops.  It was fun to tuck in and out of the shops, picking up little carvings for my Christmas creche.

Woodcarving shop in Oberammergau
Woodcarving shop in Oberammergau
This is where I bought items for my creche.
This is where I bought items for my creche.
I returned in 2015 and wanted to buy more creche figures but the stores were closed. Don't visit on a Sunday morning!
I returned in 2015 and wanted to buy more creche figures but the stores were closed. Don’t visit on a Sunday morning!
I wish I had brought the dogs - they would have loved this!
I wish I had brought the dogs – they would have loved this!
Stages of woodcarving
Stages of woodcarving
DSC02650 Oberammergau 2014 x
Christmas creche figures Woodcarving shop in Oberammergau
No idea what this is but it's definitely a woodcarving.
No idea what this is but it’s definitely a woodcarving.
Shopping

Oberammergau puts you in the Christmas mood in the middle of summer. I could hardly keep myself from filling a basket with baubles at the Kathe Wohlfahrt shop.  I wanted everything but contained myself to two new treasured ornaments for my tree.

Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Kathe Wohlfart shop in Oberammergau
Shopping in in Oberammergau
Shopping in in Oberammergau
Oberammergau
Oberammergau
Sidewalk along a shopping street in Oberammergau
Sidewalk along a shopping street in Oberammergau
Waterfountain is Oberammergau
Waterfountain is Oberammergau
Even the sculpture looks like a carving.
Even the sculpture looks like a carving.
Dining

I really wanted to try the schneeballen but the store was closed.  Schneeballen (snow balls) are made from flour and eggs with just a bit of sugar, then deep fried and covered with a bit of powdered sugar.  Today the recipe has evolved to include filings and dozens of different flavors.  Next trip:  schneeballen, please.

Snowballs
Snowballs

We stopped at a little diner by the side of the road just outside Oberammergau.  Delicious Bavarian food – and we were the only diners there!

Diner in Oberammergau
Diner in Oberammergau
Traditional lunch in Oberammergau
Traditional lunch in Oberammergau
Enjoying the beer of kings in Oberammergau
Enjoying the beer of kings in Oberammergau
Gondola Lift

When checking into our B&B, we were presented with a large packet of coupons for activities in and around Oberammergau.  When Sher spotted the discounted free gondola lift, I didn’t stand a chance of refusing.  Have I mentioned I really don’t like mountains?  I find them disorienting given my flat life in Florida.  I like to LOOK at mountains. I don’t like to be IN mountains.  But Sher wanted to be IN the mountains so, of course, so did I.

We drove to Laber Bergbahn, the gondola lift site.  I was surprised to discover it in the middle of a neighborhood.  It would be like me waking up one morning on my quiet little cul-de-sac and discovering two cables springing out of my neighbor’s garage taking passengers to the beach.  Yet, that’s exactly what I was seeing.  I’m used to seeing gondolas at ski slopes but this was my first experience with seeing a gondola just for getting to the top of the mountain – which was waaaaaaaaay up in the air.

The entrance to the gondola life, Sher in the foreground. Oberammergau, Germany
The entrance to the gondola life, Sher in the foreground. Oberammergau, Germany

While driving to the gondola lift, we notices parasailers swooping down from the mountains.  Now I knew how they got to the top of the mountain. Unfortunately, they were so high in the air that I didn’t get a good photo of them.

Sign showing what we could see from the top of the mountain in winter.
Sign showing what we could see from the top of the mountain in winter.
Sign showing what we could see from the top of the mountain in summer.
Sign showing what we could see from the top of the mountain in summer.
DSC02604 Laber Bergbahn Oberammergau 2014
Our view from the top of the mountain.

A very silent man entered the gondola with us.  He was about our age but very, very fit.  He was carrying a scythe and a heavy bag up the mountain.   I felt like I had stepped into a Steven King novel.  I was about to risk my life and limb on a gondola with a stern man carrying a scythe.  I asked myself, WWSTD?  I have no idea what Steven King would do but I jumped onto the gondola, and the operators started it up.  As we rose above a cow pasture, I kept my eyes on the scythe while Sher ooohed and aaaahed over the scenery.

I finally screwed up my courage and asked the man, “Do you speak English?”  “Ja,” he replied, without making eye contact or smiling.  Oh, this is bad, I thought to myself.  “May I ask why you are carrying that?” I asked with a nod to the scythe. He burst out laughing.  “I must cut the grass in the area where we take off,” he replied.  “Take off?” I asked.  He jerked his thumb at the heavy black backpack he carried.  “We parasail,” he said.  My big duh moment was covered with my relieved laughing.  The man looked away and never said another word during our 20-minute ride up the mountain.

DSC02603 cable car Germany x
The paraglider’s complete backpack.

Here’s a little video I borrowed off Youtube of an athlete paragliding down Laber Mountain: Das Fluggebiet am Laber in Oberammergau.  I think I could handle the descent but the landing would be a killer for me.  Have I mentioned I don’t really like mountains?

As we ascended the mountain, I could hear cow bells loudly clanging beneath us.  When I looked down, I saw a herd of cows slowly moving across the pasture just beneath our feet.

Cows grazing below our gondola ride. Oberammergau, Germany
Cows grazing below our gondola ride. Oberammergau, Germany
Crossing this support bar was scary as we suddenly stopped, then jerked forward. Eek!
Crossing this support bar was scary as we suddenly stopped, then jerked forward. Eek!
Here's the sign that says something along the line of "Be afraid, very afraid."
Here’s the sign that says something along the line of “Be afraid, very afraid.”
As we approached the summit, we noticed little flowers growing out of the rocks.
As we approached the summit, we noticed little flowers growing out of the rocks.

The view was worth every ounce of fear. Oberammergau, Germany

The view was worth every ounce of fear. Oberammergau, Germany

DSC02605 Laber Bergbahn Oberammergau 2014

What better place to situate telecommunications towers?
What better place to situate telecommunications towers?
Here was pass another gondola as we head down the mountain.
Here was pass another gondola as we head down the mountain.
This was our view as we approached our landing - what a thrill!
This was our view as we approached our landing – what a thrill!
I’ll be back!

I liked Oberommergau so much that I returned in 2015 with the Euronuts.  Unfortunately, we returned on a Sunday morning and just about everything was closed.  It was interesting to walk through the shuttered town, but I want to return when the city is alive.

I definitely want to ride the Alpine Coaster Kolbensattel – what a thrill to take a private “roller coaster” down a mountain!  Click on the link above to see the whole trip as created by David Ellis.

I also wanted to visit again for the famous passion play in 2020.  It only happens every 10 years and involves 2,000 actors who must live in Oberommergau.  The play is an all-day event and breaks for dinner.  Bucket list:  you have two new additions.  (OK, so maybe I do like mountains.)

This house promotes the Passion Play. Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
This house promotes the Passion Play. Oberammergau Lüftlmalerei
Farm machinery as we drove to Oberammergau
Farm machinery as we drove to Oberammergau
A black cat on the hunt near Oberammergau.
A black cat on the hunt near Oberammergau.
DSC02564 Oberammergau 2014 x
Oberammergau