It was market day in Arles, so off we drove to the ancient little town in search of fabric, lavender, cheese and chanterelles. Along the way we discovered the trails that VanGogh followed and the wonders that Caesar left behind.
A ring road circles the inner city; on Saturdays wall-to-wall market stands blanket the ring road.
The ever-present security forces were cheerful as they made their rounds on market day in Arles.Marching past hundreds of market stands in Arles.That’s me trying to figure out how to get a watermelon home in my purse. Arles, France MarketI wish I liked cheese – the selections were amazing! Arles, France MarketSquash blossoms, anyone? Arles, France MarketEvery kind of olive – and I bought lots. Arles, France MarketArles, France MarketI so wish I could have brought all this through customs. I wasn’t sure which would be considered spices and which would be considered seeds – customs confiscated my lavender last year. Arles, France MarketI wish I could share the heavenly aroma. And, yes! I did bring home curry. Arles, France MarketMarket, ARles, FranceJust more and more wonderfulness. Arles, France MarketThe sweetest, freshest garlic. We took some home and roasted garlic with dinner. Delicious! Arles, France MarketHere’s the forbidden lavender – I knew I couldn’t get it through customs. But the scent memory lingers. Arles, France MarketIt was melon season in the south of France. Sweet and vibrant, the melons were our staple with nearly every meal. Arles, France MarketThe euro stand thrives at French markets with all the little things you would find at an American dollar store, complete with “made in China” imprinted on most items. Arles, France Market
This old, boarded up building stood next to the market – no idea what it is or what it was once used for. But the grim, dirty structure reminded me of buildings left to decay on the streets of our rust belt cities. Arles, France MarketPuppies in a cage. The French love their dogs and we usually saw pets in markets, under cafe tables, even in churches. But these were the only dogs we saw in the crowded Arles market. Arles, France MarketThe colors of Provence are subtle, worn and heart-breakingly beautiful. Arles, France MarketBoys will be boys! Arles, France
Van Gogh
Van Gogh’s life and paintings tapped us on our shoulders, demanding attention, wherever we traveled in Provence. Arles was ripe with reminders of Van Gogh’s prodigious work.
This sign uses Van Gogh’s words about this painting. He sat next to the coliseum in Arles and painted the crowds as they swarmed after an event. This is where he painted the Arena at Arles in 1888. The sign says: “I saw bullfights in the arena, or rather sham fighting … Only the crowd was wonderful, the large, colorful crowd, superimposed two and three stories of steps with the effect of sun and shade of the huge circle. This painting is at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia.Van Gogh sat in a garden painting the entrance way to create L’Entree du Jardin Public in 1888. (The painting is now owned by the Phillips Collection in Washington, D.C. – one of my all time favorite galleries!) The sign posted in the garden contains Van Gogh’s words in a letter to his brother: “Because I never had such luck, here nature is extraordinarily beautiful. Everything and everywhere the dome of the sky is admirable blue , the sun was a pale sulfur radiation and it’s sweet and charming as the combination of celestial blue and yellow in the Van der Meer of Delft. I can not paint as beautiful as this, but absorbs me as I let myself go without thinking of rules.”This is the garden path that Van Gogh painted, as described in the photo above. Arles, FranceA tribute to Van Gogh just a few steps from where he once painted in Arles, France.Stores throughout Arles sell everything from bobble heads to postcards in honor of their favorite visitor, van Gogh. Arles, France
The Fondation Van Gogh
The Foundation Van Gogh transformed the 15th century Hôtel Léautaud de Donines into a showplace for Van Gogh’s art. Arles, France
The Foundation van Gogh is a beautiful gallery that features the works of van Gogh alongside modern-day artists whose work relates. (Here’s an interesting article from the NY Times about the gallery opening in 2014.) We raced through the works of Glenn Brown, not quite understanding the connection, and a bit horrified at the personal agony undertaken in the art. But we were rewarded with the lucious paintings of Van Gogh.
Self portrait with Grey Felt hat, 1887. A museum display says the painting is, “very accomplished and portrays a more elegant van Gogh (than an earlier self portrait). It is well-considered and neo-impressionist experiment in his new modern style and technique, executed in strong, contrasting colors and expressive brushstrokes.” Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Pollard Willows at Sunset, Arles, 1888 Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Avenue of Poplars in Autumn, 1884. The museum says van Gogh was an admirer of seasonal landscape motifs and was influenced by both Western art and Japanese prints. “Every year the arrival of autumn excited him and led to beautiful and slightly melancholic works.” This landscape was painted near Neunen. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Blossoming Chestnut Trees, Auvers-sur-Oise, 1890. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Snow Covered Field with a Harrow (After Millet) Saint-Remy-du-Provence, 1890. (Don’t you love the line after line of paint like waves in the ocean?) Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Field with Trees near Arles, 1888. (see those horizontal lines again?) Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceMy favorite painting in this collection. According to the museum, van Gogh was convinced that color was the key to modernity. That’s why I love this painting – the color! Fishing Boats on the Beach at Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, Arles, 1888. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceThis painting breaks my heart. I can feel this old man’s despair. Van Gogh’s Sorrowful Old Man, 1890. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France
Bistrot Arlesien
My favorite part of the day – lunch! We strolled around until we spotted the Bistrot Arlesien near the center of town. The cafe was empty (it was early) and we chose the perfect shady seats just out of reach of the hot sun.
Sher and Denise at the Arles Bistrot ArlesienWe chose the special of the day. Delicious chicken, a crisp salad, and the expected French fries. Excellent. Arles Bistrot ArlesienMenu at Arles Bistrot Arlesien, Arles. Lunch was about $15.Painting on a column near our restaurant. Arles Bistrot Arlesien
Caesar comes to Arles
I was surprised at the huge presence of Rome in southern France. Every city seemed to have a bit of aquaduct or an arena to call their own. Those Romans were wiley! First they provided extraordinary infrastructure – roads and water – to their conquered citiies. Then they added government buildings. Entertainment soon followed housed in centrally-located arenas and coliseums.
Hard to turn my back on this view of the Roman coliseum! Arles, FranceThis coliseum still has it’s third story placard in place, rare for a Roman ruin. Arles, FranceYou can see that modern entrepreneurism sits cheek to jowl to the ancient coliseum. Arles, FranceThe beautiful colors of Provence, ready to take home, next to the coliseum. Arles, FranceMany of the ancient buildings have been used and reused over the centuries. This building was the Franciscan Cloister in 1469, the Chapelle des Penitents Gris in 1562, and is currently the College of St. Charles.
Ancient Antiquities
Arles takes its treasures seriously and established the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques in 1995. Of course, we had to see it!
Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques. Photo source: Arles-guide.comModel of the Arles coliseum. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques
So what do you do when your city is under constant attack in the middle ages? How about building your city inside the walls of the long defunct coliseum? That’s what the people of Arles did during the 1500’s.
People built their homes inside the walls of the coliseum in medival times. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesHere’s my man, Caesar, about 100 BC. He couldn’t be everywhere so a statue of his likeness was posted in every occupied town. Napoleon liked the idea so much that he sent paintings of himself for display in his conquered cities. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques
According to the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques: “In 49 BC, in the midst of civil war, Caesar who wanted to take the City of Marseilles that supported his opponent Pompeii resolved to build 12 ships at Arles which being completed and rigged in 30 days – from the time the timber was cut down – and brought to Massila (Marseilles)” (De Bello civili, I-36).
“At the end of the conflict with the supporters of Pompeii in the Iberian Peninsula, victorious Caesar rewarded Arles for its help by founding in 46 BC a colony under Roman law and granting it with part of Masilla-confiscated territories. He settled there the veterans of the VIth legion who had remained faithful to him during the civil war, whence the name of the new colony Colonia Julia paterna Arelate sextanorum this decision allowed the free Arlesian people to become Roman citizens.”
A Roman floor fount intact in Arles. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesPart of a grand Roman mosaic floor. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesStatue of a captive discovered in 2007. The Museum says this is a high quality bronze figure of a man in the classic attitude of a prisoner, symbolizing that the people of Arles are now under the authority of Rome. This was a monumental public figure. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesAncient lion of l’Arcoule was discovered in Arles. This lion, made from local materials, was unusual for the region and the era, was probably used as part of funeral art. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.I cannot believe these graceful scrolls were created more than 2,000 years ago. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.More grace discovered in Arles, with flowing hair and curvy legs. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.
So how did all this stuff get to Arles? Much of it was created onsite but much also arrived by boat. The museum features a preserved merchant boat that carried everything from rocks to wine.
Merchant boat. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.Merchant boat. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.So many Roman remnants have been discovered that sarcophagi friezes cover an entire wall of the museum. These items are at least seven feet wide! Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.Close-up of a sarcophagus from a later period of Arles history. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.Here’s a close-up of the detailed carvings on a sarcophagus. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.A Roman frieze. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.More Roman artwork. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.The museum offers free portable seats – most welcome after a long day of walking on cobble stones and asphalt. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.
We only scratched the surface of Arles during our day trip. You could spend days here roaming the countryside, visiting the shops, enjoying cafe life, and meeting the residents. And I will – on another day!
What better way to discover the south of France than by planning our two weeks around the market days of the charming towns and villages scattered one next to the other throughout Provence? It was Thursday, so it was time to visit Aix-en-Provence (locals call their town “Ace”). Not only would we get to shop, we’d also get to see where Cezanne hung out, see the local cathedral and visit the “most beautiful tea room” at Caumont. We’d also learn that Aix is so much more than we had expected.
As usual, we got turned around and lost as we approached town. Sometimes we just had a hard time believing our GPS really wanted us to travel left down a tiny little street next to a crucifix attached to a wall in the middle of a road.
Go left here…. really? Aix-en-Provence.
But we did find our way to the center of the old town. One of the very first things I spotted was a landmarker in the midst of sales booths and vendors’ cars.
Landmark. Aix-en-Provence.
It said:
Here stood 22 August 1944 one of Sherman tanks of the armed Allied liberation of Aix in Provence , surrounded by the population of the city in jubilation . Landed 15 August on the beaches of the Var , the armies lost more than 2,000 men before reaching Aix , while the provencal resistance saw 140 of its guerrillas die under enemy fire, often summarily executed. They joined forces August 19, 1944, to all liberate the city from Nazi barbarism.
These men, those of Aix , those of the American 3rd Division , and those of the 1st Armee Francaise Libre, leveed in North Africa and Corsica , commanded by the Marechal de Lattre de Tassigny. These men coming from all walks of life, had all skin colors and all religions. They mingled their destinies and their blood for human dignity in the defense of democracy and the liberation of Provence.
This is the beauty of the south of France. Next to a profound statement is the fruit of struggle. People are free to explore the countryside and meet one another thanks to the sacrifice of others. I am grateful.
Market Day
Market day has been held in the same area for centuries. The Romans traded on these very streets before Christ was born.
Sunny days call for hats – and the choices are fabulous at a French market! Aix-en-Provence.I wish I could have thought of a lovely craft for back home from the mounds of memorabilia for sale. If I were a scrap-booker, this would have been in my luggage. But I’m a photographer so I snapped a photo and a memory. Aix-en-Provence.I’m betting this was once someone’s pride and joy. A lovely full service of French silver. Aix-en-Provence.I wanted to buy every one of these luscious beach towels but once again, the thought of paying for overweight luggage held me back. Aix-en-Provence.Weekly market. Aix-en-Provence.Loved this colorful display of aprons. Aix-en-Provence.We picked a landmark upon arrival so we could agree to meet there at an appointed time if we got separated. Aix-en-Provence.
The Cafe du Palais
We arrived at the market hungry and bought up clusters of fresh fruits and vegetables for our home fridge, then we went in search of a cafe for lunch. We were more than happy to discover the Cafe du Palais with its hearty lunches for about $15 plus wine. Lesson learned from this restaurant: Before collapsing into chairs at the closest cafe, take a moment to see how the servers treat the guests. If the servers look like they are going to spend as little time as possible with you because they’re Jonesing for their next cigarette break, you might be better off somewhere else.
Cafe du Palais in Aix-en-ProvenceThe gravlax of beef with herbs was beautiful but cold and gelatinous tasting. It was exchanged for a hamburger and french fries. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais
The much better hamburger and french fries which were tossed on the table when the gravlax was refused. Take-away memory: This waitress took it personally when food was returned. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du PalaisThe delightful pasta dish was the only item on the menu that looked recognizable to me – it was delicious! No bread, no salad, just pasta for about $10. Tap water was an additional $2. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du PalaisCarpaccio seemed to be on every luncheon menu in France. This rendering is pretty typical of a carpaccio luncheon in Provence, fresh, tasty, protein-y. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais
Shopping
After lunch, we strolled and shopped, enjoying the windows and gasping at some of the exorbitant prices.
Plaza along the Cours Mirabou. Aix-en-Provence.A delightful painting in the window of a gallery. The store was closed for lunch or I would have looked further into this painting. I love the whimsy and the color. Aix-en-Provence.Sher and Denise window shopping at Hermes. Aix-en-Provence.I love how sales are advertised. Stores often print special pillow cases, build special exhibits, leave manequins naked, or pop shopping bags over everything in the window to advertise a sale. Aix-en-Provence.How adorable is this? Matching swim trunks for dad and son at just $95 and $195 each. Aix-en-Provence.Chocolate is everywhere and D-E-C-A-D-E-N-T! Aix-en-Provence.We should have skipped lunch and just gone for the tarts in the local patisserie. Aix-en-Provence.Street scene. Aix-en-Provence.Buskers performing on a street in Aix-en-Provence.A pretty doorway in Aix-en-Provence.A churchyard. I don’t even know the name. Aix-en-Provence.
Enough shopping! On to some culture.
Musee Granet
Based on collections once owned by leaders of Provence, the Granet Museum houses about 12,000 works of art in the former Palace of Malta and at a chapel down the street and around a corner. You can actually take a virtual tour of the Granet Museum on their website but these are a few of my favorites from the collection.
Portrait d’aune Tahitienne, 1891, by Paul Gauguin. Aix-en-Provence Chapell GranetA tile called Le dejeuner sur l’herbe, 1964, by Pable Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.La Conversation, 1968, by Pable Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Femme au Miroir, 1959, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Maybe I love this artwork because I had a print of it hanging in my dining room for about 30 years. I wonder what happened to it? Femme au Fauteuil, 1949, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Feme au Chapeu dans du Fauteuil, 1939, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.This is the chapel where some of the art hung in a building down the street. Absolutely stunning. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Bouquet de Fleurs, 1886, Van Gogh. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Les Tartaines, 1925, by Charles Camoin. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.
Jeune Napolitaine, 1906, by Charles Camoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetOne of the prizes of the collection. Jeune Creole, 1904, by Charles Camoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetAutoportrait en Militaire, 1904, by Charles Canoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetAutoportrait, 1659, by Rembrandt. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetPortrait de Camoin, no date, by Albert Marquet. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet
Cezanne is the star of Aix-en-Provence but the Granet displays just 10 paintings and owns another dozen, not displayed. Still, restaurants and shops are named after the all-star impressionist and you can see metal plaques capping cobblestones throughout town where Cezanne once painted. The capstones lead from the house where Cezanne was born to St. Jean Cemetery where he was buried.
Plaque in the cobblestoned streets of Aix-en-Provence.Madame Cezaane, 1825, by Paul Cezanne. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet
Caumont Center for the Arts
The Caumont Center for the Arts is recommended for its elegant tea room but the place is extravagently expensive. We stopped in for for a cup of tea and a dusty-looking pastry only to be shocked when we were charged twice as much for the “tea of the day”. Two cups of tea and a bottle of water came to just under $30. Service was very poor and we had to track down a server to take our order. They simply could not be bothered to bring us our check and we had to find a manager to help us with that. Luke-warm tea and a close and humid room on a hot, sunny day contributed to the discomfort and rude atmosphere in the beautiful tea rooms.
The gray silk tea room. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe main tea room – with doors open to the outside the room was quite warm and humid, but beautiful. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteA small tea room with pretty painting. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe outdoor tea garden. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteFlowers edging the outdoor tea room. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe outdoor formal gardens. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte
The restrooms were the real treat at the Caumont. We avoided the lower-level restrooms and used the first-floor toilet tucked into a small passageway near the outdoor formal gardens. Best restroom in all of France!
The graceful sink features fine fixtures, cotton towels, and strong water pressure. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe small bathroom is tented above French toile wallpaper. I love the guilded mirror and the chandelier! Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte
The gift shop is another delight. Tables are elegantly staged and everything is for sale.
The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.One of the feature windows. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The stairwell. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.
So my advice for the Caumont is to peek in the tea rooms – but don’t bother eating – tour the verdant gardens, enjoy the gorgeous gift shop, and leave with lovely memories.
The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour
The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence was built atop an ancient temple to the sun gods on the Via Aurelia, the Roman road built through the south of France. Begun in the 1200’s when Aix was the capital of Provence, the cathedral was completed just about the time Christopher Columbus was discovering America in 1492. The carved doors to the cathedral are made of wood and were commissioned in the early 1500’s. You can see the four old testament prophets surrounding the doorway and a dozen pagan fortune tellers above – they foretold the birth and death of Christ.
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
The altar piece painting is a masterpiece of the 15th century created by Nicholas Froment of nearby Avignon. Moses, guarding his flock, is astounded to see Jesus and the Virgin Mary rise from a burning bush. I’d also be pretty surprised if it happened to me. The people painted in the left and right panels are the folks who paid for the painting, King Rene (left) and Queen Jeanne (right).
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
This is an altar built by Audinet Stéphani for the Aygosi family. It used to be in a Carmelite church that burned down in the French Revolution so it was moved to the cathedral along with the altarpiece, above. You can see Saint Maurice in his coat of armor to the left of St. Anne, the mother of Mary.
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
I’m a fool for stained glass, and while I have no information, you can see that the window tells a story. Looks like maybe its the story of the female icons of the church, complete with a dog symbolizing loyalty.
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
End of the Day
At the end of every day in the south of France, we leave tired, happy and full of new memories. We take photographs of the parking garage and the cross streets where we left our car earlier in the day so we can find our way back. This may be the most important tip I give you in my blog! Simply pop your ticket into the machine located somewhere near an entrance to the garage and pay with your credit card. Your ticket will be validated and you can insert it into a second widow-height machine as you drive out of the garage.
Sher pays the parking fee for our car in a garage in Aix-en-Provence.
Have a great day in Aix-en-Provence. Just eat somewhere else.
First you drive an hour east of Amsterdam past green fields and creamy cows, sharp industrial parks, and ever-changing speed zones. You arrive in the dense Hoge Veluwe National Park and abruptly stop at a gate with a small tourist booth. Believe it or not, you’ve arrived at the second largest collection of Van Gogh paintings in the world: The Kroller-Muller Museum.
A canopy of trees leads you to the the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
The gate keeper explains that you are in a national park and that while your Museum Kaart gives you free admission to the museum, you have to pay 9 Euros for admission to the park (the museum is in the middle of the park) and 6 Euros to drive into the park. You can save the parking fee by parking at the gate, borrowing one of the free white bicycles, and peddling four kilometers to the museum.
We chose to spend the six euros and drive the four kilometers into the park but you can see that many, many people chose to ride the park’s free bicycles into the De Hoge Veluwe National Park. Kroller-Muller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands.
It turns out the 4-kilometer drive into the park follows a pretty but circular route through the forests with a stop at the museum. When you leave it’s only about 1/2-kilometer back to the main gate. So it’s an easy walk or peddle to the museum if you go backwards from the gate rather than follow the long, circuitous route prescribed.
The museum, itself, is sleek, a modernist’s dream nested into a rich, green sculpture garden.
Meneer Jacque greeted me in front of the Kroller-Muller Museum.
The sculpture gardens are located behind the museum but you get a taste of the art as you approach the front door.
The inside of the museum is just as beautiful as the exterior with clean, fresh lines and – unusual for most museums – lots of seating.
Inside the museum.That’s a Calder hanging from the ceiling, Henry Moore peeping over the wall and fresh flowers in the foreground next to big, empty benches. Kroller-Muller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands.
The Potato Eaters, Vincent Van Gogh
These are a few of the paintings Van Gogh created as he studied the local field workers. He was interested in how they worked and how they moved but he did not fill in or closely detail many of their faces. He was more interested in the light, the color, the motion of the moment.
Peasant Women Digging up Potatoes, 1885, by Vincent Van Gogh. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Head of a Woman, 1885, by Vincent Van Gogh. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
And here is Van Gogh’s masterpiece.
The Potato Eaters, Vincent Van Gogh, 1885. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
I know you are reading this because you are interested in Van Gogh – and there are more photos at the bottom of this blog. But so many other greats are featured at this museum! The best part of viewing paintings at the Kroller-Muller is that there are not hordes of people crowding around a tiny painting. You don’t feel pressured to move on after three seconds (think The Mona Lisa in the Louvre). You can almost smell the paint as you take a side-ways look at the artist’s brushstrokes and a guard doesn’t come running up to tsk-tsk you away. Visiting the Kroller-Muller is an extraordinarily delicious experience!
Impressionists
Here’s Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, a neo-impressionist artwork that Seurat created using the pointillist technique of painting with tens of thousands of dots of paint. Close up you might only see pink or green but at a distance, the colors blend and you’ll see brown. This painting was a huge hit when it was introduced in Paris in 1890. It led the way for new art movements such as my daughter Christie’s favorites, the Fauves.
Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, 1889. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
Here are close-ups of two sections of this painting. See what I mean about getting close without being rushed?
This is a close-up of the lower left corner of Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, 1889. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.This is a close-up of the lower right corner of Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, 1889. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Here’s another side of Georges Seurat with A Corner of the Harbor at Hornfleur, 1886. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
Many more impressionist artists are also represented at the museum. Here are a few of the paintings that attracted me such as this painting by Renoir of the Clown John Prince. Renoir was commissioned to paint this full length portrait by the owners of the cafe at the Circus d’Hiver in Paris.
We can usually quickly recognize a Renoir painting, but this one took me by surprise. It’s only of his early portraits created for the owners of a circus. Renoir’s Le Clown, 1868. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.A more traditional Renoir, Au Cafe, 1877. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Because I’m in the Netherlands, I was drawn to this Paul Signac painting of Rotterdam, 1906. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.I love this very tall canvas of Mata Hari created by Isaac Israels in 1916. You can feel her power and dignity. I imagine she attracted attention wherever she walked. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.This painting attracted me just because it’s pretty. It was created by Maurice Denis for a young girl’s bedroom. He calls the 1892 painting April. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
Camille Pissaro, whose work is below, is the artist who encouraged Van Gogh to paint with more color and to paint more freely. Pissaro was fascinated with the interplay of light and color, according to information provided by the Kroller-Muller Museum.
Camille Pissarro’s Bazincourt, 1893. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
Van Gogh
As promised, here are more Van Gogh’s.
This painting features both the sun and the moon. Researchers learned that this painting was created on the first day of a new moon so it’s quite possible that both the sun and the moon were in the sky. Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night 1890. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Here is detail of the painting, above, Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night 1890. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Here is detail of the painting, above, Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night 1890. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Here is detail of the painting, above, Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night 1890. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.This is one of Van Gogh’s very first oil paintings. It is asw much an experiment of how to use the medium as it is a still life study of light and shape. Van Gogh’s Still Life with Straw Hat, 1881. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
Van Gogh wrote to his brother, Theo, “You know Jeannin has the peony and Quost has the hollyhock, but I am in a way the one who has the sunflower.” (Taken from the wall of the The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.)
Van Gogh’s 4 Sunflowers Gone to Seed, 1887. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Detail of Van Gogh’s 4 Sunflowers Gone to Seed, 1887. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.I read that lavender fields only became popular about 100 years ago, yet…..Van Gogh’s Saintes-aries-de-la-Mer, 1888. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Van Gogh’s Olive Grove, 1889. This reminds me so much of our view out the window during our wonderful two weeks in Provence. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Van Gogh’s Moulin de la Galette, 1886. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.One of my very, very favorite paintings. I bought a print for my home to remind me of this extraordinary painter. Van Gogh’s Bridge at Arles, 1888. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.This wildly popular painting of Van Gogh’s Terrace of a Cafe at Night, 1888, is available in purses, napkins, table cloths, mouse pads, calendars….just about anything you can think of at the fine gift shop. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
Flowers
The beautiful floral arrangements throughout the museum made this museum even more delightful. Here are a few snaps:
Fresh floral arrangement at the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Fresh floral arrangement at the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.Fresh floral arrangement at the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
Make the trip to the Kroller-Muller Museum. It’s well worth the visit and a great break from the frenzy of Amsterdam. There are easy bus and train connections and the drive is interesting.
The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.
This has nothing to do with this visit to the Kroller-Muller, but you must watch this trailer for the upcoming movie Loving Vincent, just because it is such an original. Breakthru Films has taught 100 painters to paint in the style of Vincent for the movie. Cannot wait! Read more about the world’s first fully painted film here.
There’s also an interesting video about Van Gogh’s life here from 1Media if you’d like to know more about Vincent’s life.
