It was market day in Arles, so off we drove to the ancient little town in search of fabric, lavender, cheese and chanterelles. Along the way we discovered the trails that VanGogh followed and the wonders that Caesar left behind.
A ring road circles the inner city; on Saturdays wall-to-wall market stands blanket the ring road.
The ever-present security forces were cheerful as they made their rounds on market day in Arles.Marching past hundreds of market stands in Arles.That’s me trying to figure out how to get a watermelon home in my purse. Arles, France MarketI wish I liked cheese – the selections were amazing! Arles, France MarketSquash blossoms, anyone? Arles, France MarketEvery kind of olive – and I bought lots. Arles, France MarketArles, France MarketI so wish I could have brought all this through customs. I wasn’t sure which would be considered spices and which would be considered seeds – customs confiscated my lavender last year. Arles, France MarketI wish I could share the heavenly aroma. And, yes! I did bring home curry. Arles, France MarketMarket, ARles, FranceJust more and more wonderfulness. Arles, France MarketThe sweetest, freshest garlic. We took some home and roasted garlic with dinner. Delicious! Arles, France MarketHere’s the forbidden lavender – I knew I couldn’t get it through customs. But the scent memory lingers. Arles, France MarketIt was melon season in the south of France. Sweet and vibrant, the melons were our staple with nearly every meal. Arles, France MarketThe euro stand thrives at French markets with all the little things you would find at an American dollar store, complete with “made in China” imprinted on most items. Arles, France Market
This old, boarded up building stood next to the market – no idea what it is or what it was once used for. But the grim, dirty structure reminded me of buildings left to decay on the streets of our rust belt cities. Arles, France MarketPuppies in a cage. The French love their dogs and we usually saw pets in markets, under cafe tables, even in churches. But these were the only dogs we saw in the crowded Arles market. Arles, France MarketThe colors of Provence are subtle, worn and heart-breakingly beautiful. Arles, France MarketBoys will be boys! Arles, France
Van Gogh
Van Gogh’s life and paintings tapped us on our shoulders, demanding attention, wherever we traveled in Provence. Arles was ripe with reminders of Van Gogh’s prodigious work.
This sign uses Van Gogh’s words about this painting. He sat next to the coliseum in Arles and painted the crowds as they swarmed after an event. This is where he painted the Arena at Arles in 1888. The sign says: “I saw bullfights in the arena, or rather sham fighting … Only the crowd was wonderful, the large, colorful crowd, superimposed two and three stories of steps with the effect of sun and shade of the huge circle. This painting is at the Hermitage in St. Petersburg, Russia.Van Gogh sat in a garden painting the entrance way to create L’Entree du Jardin Public in 1888. (The painting is now owned by the Phillips Collection in Washington, D.C. – one of my all time favorite galleries!) The sign posted in the garden contains Van Gogh’s words in a letter to his brother: “Because I never had such luck, here nature is extraordinarily beautiful. Everything and everywhere the dome of the sky is admirable blue , the sun was a pale sulfur radiation and it’s sweet and charming as the combination of celestial blue and yellow in the Van der Meer of Delft. I can not paint as beautiful as this, but absorbs me as I let myself go without thinking of rules.”This is the garden path that Van Gogh painted, as described in the photo above. Arles, FranceA tribute to Van Gogh just a few steps from where he once painted in Arles, France.Stores throughout Arles sell everything from bobble heads to postcards in honor of their favorite visitor, van Gogh. Arles, France
The Fondation Van Gogh
The Foundation Van Gogh transformed the 15th century Hôtel Léautaud de Donines into a showplace for Van Gogh’s art. Arles, France
The Foundation van Gogh is a beautiful gallery that features the works of van Gogh alongside modern-day artists whose work relates. (Here’s an interesting article from the NY Times about the gallery opening in 2014.) We raced through the works of Glenn Brown, not quite understanding the connection, and a bit horrified at the personal agony undertaken in the art. But we were rewarded with the lucious paintings of Van Gogh.
Self portrait with Grey Felt hat, 1887. A museum display says the painting is, “very accomplished and portrays a more elegant van Gogh (than an earlier self portrait). It is well-considered and neo-impressionist experiment in his new modern style and technique, executed in strong, contrasting colors and expressive brushstrokes.” Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Pollard Willows at Sunset, Arles, 1888 Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Avenue of Poplars in Autumn, 1884. The museum says van Gogh was an admirer of seasonal landscape motifs and was influenced by both Western art and Japanese prints. “Every year the arrival of autumn excited him and led to beautiful and slightly melancholic works.” This landscape was painted near Neunen. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Blossoming Chestnut Trees, Auvers-sur-Oise, 1890. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Snow Covered Field with a Harrow (After Millet) Saint-Remy-du-Provence, 1890. (Don’t you love the line after line of paint like waves in the ocean?) Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceVan Gogh’s Field with Trees near Arles, 1888. (see those horizontal lines again?) Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceMy favorite painting in this collection. According to the museum, van Gogh was convinced that color was the key to modernity. That’s why I love this painting – the color! Fishing Boats on the Beach at Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, Arles, 1888. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, FranceThis painting breaks my heart. I can feel this old man’s despair. Van Gogh’s Sorrowful Old Man, 1890. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France
Bistrot Arlesien
My favorite part of the day – lunch! We strolled around until we spotted the Bistrot Arlesien near the center of town. The cafe was empty (it was early) and we chose the perfect shady seats just out of reach of the hot sun.
Sher and Denise at the Arles Bistrot ArlesienWe chose the special of the day. Delicious chicken, a crisp salad, and the expected French fries. Excellent. Arles Bistrot ArlesienMenu at Arles Bistrot Arlesien, Arles. Lunch was about $15.Painting on a column near our restaurant. Arles Bistrot Arlesien
Caesar comes to Arles
I was surprised at the huge presence of Rome in southern France. Every city seemed to have a bit of aquaduct or an arena to call their own. Those Romans were wiley! First they provided extraordinary infrastructure – roads and water – to their conquered citiies. Then they added government buildings. Entertainment soon followed housed in centrally-located arenas and coliseums.
Hard to turn my back on this view of the Roman coliseum! Arles, FranceThis coliseum still has it’s third story placard in place, rare for a Roman ruin. Arles, FranceYou can see that modern entrepreneurism sits cheek to jowl to the ancient coliseum. Arles, FranceThe beautiful colors of Provence, ready to take home, next to the coliseum. Arles, FranceMany of the ancient buildings have been used and reused over the centuries. This building was the Franciscan Cloister in 1469, the Chapelle des Penitents Gris in 1562, and is currently the College of St. Charles.
Ancient Antiquities
Arles takes its treasures seriously and established the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques in 1995. Of course, we had to see it!
Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques. Photo source: Arles-guide.comModel of the Arles coliseum. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques
So what do you do when your city is under constant attack in the middle ages? How about building your city inside the walls of the long defunct coliseum? That’s what the people of Arles did during the 1500’s.
People built their homes inside the walls of the coliseum in medival times. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesHere’s my man, Caesar, about 100 BC. He couldn’t be everywhere so a statue of his likeness was posted in every occupied town. Napoleon liked the idea so much that he sent paintings of himself for display in his conquered cities. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques
According to the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques: “In 49 BC, in the midst of civil war, Caesar who wanted to take the City of Marseilles that supported his opponent Pompeii resolved to build 12 ships at Arles which being completed and rigged in 30 days – from the time the timber was cut down – and brought to Massila (Marseilles)” (De Bello civili, I-36).
“At the end of the conflict with the supporters of Pompeii in the Iberian Peninsula, victorious Caesar rewarded Arles for its help by founding in 46 BC a colony under Roman law and granting it with part of Masilla-confiscated territories. He settled there the veterans of the VIth legion who had remained faithful to him during the civil war, whence the name of the new colony Colonia Julia paterna Arelate sextanorum this decision allowed the free Arlesian people to become Roman citizens.”
A Roman floor fount intact in Arles. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesPart of a grand Roman mosaic floor. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesStatue of a captive discovered in 2007. The Museum says this is a high quality bronze figure of a man in the classic attitude of a prisoner, symbolizing that the people of Arles are now under the authority of Rome. This was a monumental public figure. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiquesAncient lion of l’Arcoule was discovered in Arles. This lion, made from local materials, was unusual for the region and the era, was probably used as part of funeral art. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.I cannot believe these graceful scrolls were created more than 2,000 years ago. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.More grace discovered in Arles, with flowing hair and curvy legs. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.
So how did all this stuff get to Arles? Much of it was created onsite but much also arrived by boat. The museum features a preserved merchant boat that carried everything from rocks to wine.
Merchant boat. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.Merchant boat. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.So many Roman remnants have been discovered that sarcophagi friezes cover an entire wall of the museum. These items are at least seven feet wide! Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.Close-up of a sarcophagus from a later period of Arles history. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.Here’s a close-up of the detailed carvings on a sarcophagus. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.A Roman frieze. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.More Roman artwork. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.The museum offers free portable seats – most welcome after a long day of walking on cobble stones and asphalt. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.
We only scratched the surface of Arles during our day trip. You could spend days here roaming the countryside, visiting the shops, enjoying cafe life, and meeting the residents. And I will – on another day!
We were so very lucky to be introduced to Marseille by our new friends Carole and Daniel. Daniel grew up in Marseille and graciously showed us his favorite places in this French city by the sea.
It was an especially exciting time to visit Marseille because France was playing Portugal in the finals for the Europe Cup that day. Fans started celebrating early, carrying drums, wearing blue jerseys and filling restaurants up and down the sparkling beaches. Flags flew from balconies in every direction I looked. Excitement was electric in the air! Here’s a very short video of fans gathering to watch the game on big screen TVs.
Jean-Pierre Buffi designed the Strade Velodrome, the football stadium that was completed in 1998. The Europe Cup game was not held here in France’s second largest stadium, but the stadium is loved by soccer fans. Marseille fans viewed the Europe Cup match at large venues throughout Marseille that featured huge screen TV’s. Marseille France
I was tickled to see David standing in a traffic circle in downtown Marseille.
David in the center of a traffi circle. Marseille, France
Daniel first took us to see the sea. We enjoyed the wind that wasn’t quite Mistral strength, but gusty winds blew steadily on us from the water and cooled us a bit on a hot and sunny day. Lots of people were strolling next to the sea on a Sunday morning so we had to wait for a break in the “traffic” to get a photo.
Daniel, Sher, Denise, Carole overlooking the sea in Marseille, France
Daniel then took us to a huge housing tower that we never would have seen on any packaged tour of Marseille. The building is a self-sufficient city within a city with housing, shopping, a school, recreation, restaurants, and a hotel. The hallways are called streets and resident committees create a rich social life.
One of the “streets” in the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, FranceThe French are so stylish! Here’s the lobby of the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France
Swiss-French Architect Le Corbusier designed several of these all-inclusive habitats around 1950 but Marseille’s is the most famous. He strived to build modern living quarters for people in crowded cities; these were buildings where residents would never have to leave the building unless they wanted to.
Information about the history of Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, FranceAn office in the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, FranceLots of realestate for sale. Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, FranceHotel located right in the high rise. Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, FranceThere’s even a school “Ecole” listed on the elevator panel in this self-contained city. Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, FrancePostal service at Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France
I was thrilled to meet the artist Felice Varini as he finished his dizzying graphic in the building’s gym. The design offers a different perspective if you move even a few inches forward or backward, left or right. The Swiss-born artist lives in Paris and is known for his urban paintings on buildings, walls and streets.
The gymnasium of the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France.
On his website, Varini writes, “My field of action is architectural space and everything that constitutes such space. These spaces are and remain the original media for my painting. I work “on site” each time in a different space and my work develops itself in relation to the spaces I encounter.”
I don’t know if this is Varini’s work on the rooftop of Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier, but something was certainly going on! Marseille, FranceThe rooftop view of Marseille from Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France
The designer of the building itself is LeCorbusier. He, perhaps, launched the Brutalist movement in architecture which used “raw” (brutal) materials such as unfinished concrete. (Some folks say the huge buildings are just brutally ugly but I like them.) In the photo below, the 66-year-old building is getting a bit of a face lift but the redesign still incorporates raw materials.
Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France
Brutalist buildings often incorporate repeated modular units and exposed building functions. You may have lived in a brutalist building while a university student. I can think of a couple twin towers at The Ohio State University when I was there (known facetiously by students and parents as Sodom & Gamorrah in the age of free love).
The massive concrete staircases are exposed throughout the exterior of the building at Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France
I kept thinking that this building reminded me a lot of the Habitat 67 at the World’s Fair in Montreal. Then I realized, this building was a bit of a deconstruction of Unite d’Habitation.
Designed for Montreal’s 1967 Expo, Habitat 67 was an attempt to balance cold geometry against living, breathing nature. Photograph: Landscape borrowed from the website theguardian.com
I’m no architect or even a critic. But I do find it fascinating that minds sharper than mine are working to explore new and better ways to live. I am thankful to Daniel and Carole for giving me the chance to tour Unite d’Habitation.
NOTE: We saw so much that I’ve split Marseille into three separate blog entries.
Our friends Carole and Daniel planned the perfect day for us in Marseille, complete with sunshine and breezes in this beautiful French coastal city. After touring all morning, we were hungry! So we looked for parking and lunch in a town crowded with soccer fans and Sunday strollers.
Parking garages indicate how many empty spots are available in each garage in Marseille, France.Carole, Denise, Daniel and Sher in the parking garage at Marseille, FranceA typical French cafe, the L’Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, France
Here’s a tiny video of Denise and Sher trying to figure out a French menu before they were brought the menu in English.
The menu at L’Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, France
We ate outside on a screened porch but this is the interior of the L’Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, France
The home made Rock Fish soup is really a rather bland fish broth with some croutons in it at the L’Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, FranceThis is the whole plancho grilled bass with vegetables which was delicious at the L’Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, FranceA surprise egg was holding the bass up to make the plate pretty and give a bit of lagniappe at L’Ecailler, Marseille, France.Butcher’s choice beef with forestiere sauce is tasty at L’Ecailler, Marseille, France.Sher gets freaked at heads-on shrimp but there he is in all his glory at L’Ecailler, Marseille, FranceLook what I discovered outside the restaurant: an Everglades sticker on a scooter! in Marseille, France. (I WANT this scooter.)
Full and relaxed, we headed out to explore the waterfront of Nice. As we walked, we passed a small market, a mirrored shaded area and the huge ferris wheel we had seen from the basilica.
A small waterfront tourist market and bicycles for rent in Marseille, FranceLove this mirrored area that provides shade while waiting for the bus in Marseille, France
There was a Picasso exhibit in Marseille but we had already visited Picasso museums in Barcelona, Malaga and Paris and we had viewed his art at numerous galleries throughout Europe (damn, that man was prolific!). So we skipped this exhibit although the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations building, itself, is stunning. It’s called the J4 (the name of the pier) for short.
The Picasso exhibit in Marseille, France.
See that lacy work extending out from the museum? That is concrete! It encases the building and provides shade.
The walls of the Museum of the European and Mediterranean Civilisations building features quotations from the Universal Declaration for Human Rights which I teach in my ethics courses. It was adopted by the United Nations in 1948 and set out for the first time fundamental human rights to be universally protected (United Nations). It was thrilling to see these words written on walls for all to see.
Universal Declaration of Human Rights Article 14 at the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations in Marseille, France
The real reason we stopped at the museum was to use the restrooms and take the exterior spiralling walkway to the roof. Once on the roof we climbed round and round the building to a bridge that connected the museum to an old sea-side port. The port has been rennovated into a relaxing space for concerts, cocktails and relaxation next to the sea.
Up on the roof of the J4, people relaxed on a beautiful Sunday afternoon under the concrete webbing that provided shade. Marseille, France.This is the walkway we crossed to get to the fort by the sea. It was wild seeing the traffic woosh under us. Marseille, FranceThis shows the the J4 museum and the bridge extending over to the old Fort St. Jean. If you look closely at the museum you will see the exterior staircase on the left which we used to walk around the building to the roof. Photo source: http://us.france.fr/en/events/picasso-lart-populaire-%E2%80%93-retrospective-museum-european-and-mediterranean-civilisations-marseiHere we are crossing the bridge to the port. J4 in Marseille, France.
As we crossed the bridge, several young teenagers were stopped in the middle of the bridge calling down to boys diving into the sea and urging them to “Jump!” Here’s a little video of their antics. And here are the boys, below, swimming. And here’s a very short video of a boat coming into port.
We often stumbled upon choirs singing in unexpected places. This choir was singing in the courtyard of the old port next to the Marseille waterfront. Here’s a little video.
The bridge/walkway is a beautiful place to view Marseille. Here’s a city view I took while strolling.
Marseille, FranceAnd here’s a view of the sweet little flowers lining the walkways. Marseille, FranceThe port is the center of boating in Marseille, France.I couldn’t believe the size of some of the boats docked in the harbor in Marseille, FranceArt was sprinkled throughout the venue in the most unexpected places at J4 in Marseille, FranceOne of the many bars set up on the J4 for visitors to enjoy in Marseille, France
Really? Even docked boats are beautiful in Marseille, FranceBoys swimming in the J4 Port in Marseille, France
Now here’s why we were going to skip Marseilles. Back home in the states, just before we left, I binge-watched the European crime drama series The Last Panthers. The series is set in Marseilles and concerns Balcan jewel thieves called the Pink Panthers. It shows a dirty, gritty harbor-front city where no one is safe. Ever. Alors, that’s television for you. Thank goodness Carole and Daniel changed my mind entirely about this wonderful, clean, happy city of Marseilles.
At the end of our very long and rich day in Marseille, we were blessed with a gorgeous sunset at our swapped home in Mallemort thanks to Pascale and Renee. We also swapped homes with Carole and Daniel in Paris and I look forward to lending them my home next spring. Homeexchange.com gives us such a rich experience when traveling in Europe because we get to live in real homes in real neighborhoods. More important, we meet the most wonderful people!
Carole and Daniel’s home outside of Marseille, FranceCarole and Daniel treated us to dinner at their home in Provence, introducing Sher to one of her favorite wines of all time.Good night! Mallemort, France
We are forever grateful for this wonderful day with Carole and Daniel.
NOTE: We saw so much that I’ve split Marseille into three separate blog entries.
What better way to discover the south of France than by planning our two weeks around the market days of the charming towns and villages scattered one next to the other throughout Provence? It was Thursday, so it was time to visit Aix-en-Provence (locals call their town “Ace”). Not only would we get to shop, we’d also get to see where Cezanne hung out, see the local cathedral and visit the “most beautiful tea room” at Caumont. We’d also learn that Aix is so much more than we had expected.
As usual, we got turned around and lost as we approached town. Sometimes we just had a hard time believing our GPS really wanted us to travel left down a tiny little street next to a crucifix attached to a wall in the middle of a road.
Go left here…. really? Aix-en-Provence.
But we did find our way to the center of the old town. One of the very first things I spotted was a landmarker in the midst of sales booths and vendors’ cars.
Landmark. Aix-en-Provence.
It said:
Here stood 22 August 1944 one of Sherman tanks of the armed Allied liberation of Aix in Provence , surrounded by the population of the city in jubilation . Landed 15 August on the beaches of the Var , the armies lost more than 2,000 men before reaching Aix , while the provencal resistance saw 140 of its guerrillas die under enemy fire, often summarily executed. They joined forces August 19, 1944, to all liberate the city from Nazi barbarism.
These men, those of Aix , those of the American 3rd Division , and those of the 1st Armee Francaise Libre, leveed in North Africa and Corsica , commanded by the Marechal de Lattre de Tassigny. These men coming from all walks of life, had all skin colors and all religions. They mingled their destinies and their blood for human dignity in the defense of democracy and the liberation of Provence.
This is the beauty of the south of France. Next to a profound statement is the fruit of struggle. People are free to explore the countryside and meet one another thanks to the sacrifice of others. I am grateful.
Market Day
Market day has been held in the same area for centuries. The Romans traded on these very streets before Christ was born.
Sunny days call for hats – and the choices are fabulous at a French market! Aix-en-Provence.I wish I could have thought of a lovely craft for back home from the mounds of memorabilia for sale. If I were a scrap-booker, this would have been in my luggage. But I’m a photographer so I snapped a photo and a memory. Aix-en-Provence.I’m betting this was once someone’s pride and joy. A lovely full service of French silver. Aix-en-Provence.I wanted to buy every one of these luscious beach towels but once again, the thought of paying for overweight luggage held me back. Aix-en-Provence.Weekly market. Aix-en-Provence.Loved this colorful display of aprons. Aix-en-Provence.We picked a landmark upon arrival so we could agree to meet there at an appointed time if we got separated. Aix-en-Provence.
The Cafe du Palais
We arrived at the market hungry and bought up clusters of fresh fruits and vegetables for our home fridge, then we went in search of a cafe for lunch. We were more than happy to discover the Cafe du Palais with its hearty lunches for about $15 plus wine. Lesson learned from this restaurant: Before collapsing into chairs at the closest cafe, take a moment to see how the servers treat the guests. If the servers look like they are going to spend as little time as possible with you because they’re Jonesing for their next cigarette break, you might be better off somewhere else.
Cafe du Palais in Aix-en-ProvenceThe gravlax of beef with herbs was beautiful but cold and gelatinous tasting. It was exchanged for a hamburger and french fries. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais
The much better hamburger and french fries which were tossed on the table when the gravlax was refused. Take-away memory: This waitress took it personally when food was returned. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du PalaisThe delightful pasta dish was the only item on the menu that looked recognizable to me – it was delicious! No bread, no salad, just pasta for about $10. Tap water was an additional $2. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du PalaisCarpaccio seemed to be on every luncheon menu in France. This rendering is pretty typical of a carpaccio luncheon in Provence, fresh, tasty, protein-y. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais
Shopping
After lunch, we strolled and shopped, enjoying the windows and gasping at some of the exorbitant prices.
Plaza along the Cours Mirabou. Aix-en-Provence.A delightful painting in the window of a gallery. The store was closed for lunch or I would have looked further into this painting. I love the whimsy and the color. Aix-en-Provence.Sher and Denise window shopping at Hermes. Aix-en-Provence.I love how sales are advertised. Stores often print special pillow cases, build special exhibits, leave manequins naked, or pop shopping bags over everything in the window to advertise a sale. Aix-en-Provence.How adorable is this? Matching swim trunks for dad and son at just $95 and $195 each. Aix-en-Provence.Chocolate is everywhere and D-E-C-A-D-E-N-T! Aix-en-Provence.We should have skipped lunch and just gone for the tarts in the local patisserie. Aix-en-Provence.Street scene. Aix-en-Provence.Buskers performing on a street in Aix-en-Provence.A pretty doorway in Aix-en-Provence.A churchyard. I don’t even know the name. Aix-en-Provence.
Enough shopping! On to some culture.
Musee Granet
Based on collections once owned by leaders of Provence, the Granet Museum houses about 12,000 works of art in the former Palace of Malta and at a chapel down the street and around a corner. You can actually take a virtual tour of the Granet Museum on their website but these are a few of my favorites from the collection.
Portrait d’aune Tahitienne, 1891, by Paul Gauguin. Aix-en-Provence Chapell GranetA tile called Le dejeuner sur l’herbe, 1964, by Pable Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.La Conversation, 1968, by Pable Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Femme au Miroir, 1959, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Maybe I love this artwork because I had a print of it hanging in my dining room for about 30 years. I wonder what happened to it? Femme au Fauteuil, 1949, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Feme au Chapeu dans du Fauteuil, 1939, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.This is the chapel where some of the art hung in a building down the street. Absolutely stunning. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Bouquet de Fleurs, 1886, Van Gogh. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.Les Tartaines, 1925, by Charles Camoin. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.
Jeune Napolitaine, 1906, by Charles Camoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetOne of the prizes of the collection. Jeune Creole, 1904, by Charles Camoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetAutoportrait en Militaire, 1904, by Charles Canoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetAutoportrait, 1659, by Rembrandt. Aix-en-Provence Musee GranetPortrait de Camoin, no date, by Albert Marquet. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet
Cezanne is the star of Aix-en-Provence but the Granet displays just 10 paintings and owns another dozen, not displayed. Still, restaurants and shops are named after the all-star impressionist and you can see metal plaques capping cobblestones throughout town where Cezanne once painted. The capstones lead from the house where Cezanne was born to St. Jean Cemetery where he was buried.
Plaque in the cobblestoned streets of Aix-en-Provence.Madame Cezaane, 1825, by Paul Cezanne. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet
Caumont Center for the Arts
The Caumont Center for the Arts is recommended for its elegant tea room but the place is extravagently expensive. We stopped in for for a cup of tea and a dusty-looking pastry only to be shocked when we were charged twice as much for the “tea of the day”. Two cups of tea and a bottle of water came to just under $30. Service was very poor and we had to track down a server to take our order. They simply could not be bothered to bring us our check and we had to find a manager to help us with that. Luke-warm tea and a close and humid room on a hot, sunny day contributed to the discomfort and rude atmosphere in the beautiful tea rooms.
The gray silk tea room. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe main tea room – with doors open to the outside the room was quite warm and humid, but beautiful. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteA small tea room with pretty painting. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe outdoor tea garden. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteFlowers edging the outdoor tea room. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe outdoor formal gardens. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte
The restrooms were the real treat at the Caumont. We avoided the lower-level restrooms and used the first-floor toilet tucked into a small passageway near the outdoor formal gardens. Best restroom in all of France!
The graceful sink features fine fixtures, cotton towels, and strong water pressure. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de ArteThe small bathroom is tented above French toile wallpaper. I love the guilded mirror and the chandelier! Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte
The gift shop is another delight. Tables are elegantly staged and everything is for sale.
The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.One of the feature windows. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.The stairwell. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.
So my advice for the Caumont is to peek in the tea rooms – but don’t bother eating – tour the verdant gardens, enjoy the gorgeous gift shop, and leave with lovely memories.
The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour
The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence was built atop an ancient temple to the sun gods on the Via Aurelia, the Roman road built through the south of France. Begun in the 1200’s when Aix was the capital of Provence, the cathedral was completed just about the time Christopher Columbus was discovering America in 1492. The carved doors to the cathedral are made of wood and were commissioned in the early 1500’s. You can see the four old testament prophets surrounding the doorway and a dozen pagan fortune tellers above – they foretold the birth and death of Christ.
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
The altar piece painting is a masterpiece of the 15th century created by Nicholas Froment of nearby Avignon. Moses, guarding his flock, is astounded to see Jesus and the Virgin Mary rise from a burning bush. I’d also be pretty surprised if it happened to me. The people painted in the left and right panels are the folks who paid for the painting, King Rene (left) and Queen Jeanne (right).
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
This is an altar built by Audinet Stéphani for the Aygosi family. It used to be in a Carmelite church that burned down in the French Revolution so it was moved to the cathedral along with the altarpiece, above. You can see Saint Maurice in his coat of armor to the left of St. Anne, the mother of Mary.
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
I’m a fool for stained glass, and while I have no information, you can see that the window tells a story. Looks like maybe its the story of the female icons of the church, complete with a dog symbolizing loyalty.
Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence
End of the Day
At the end of every day in the south of France, we leave tired, happy and full of new memories. We take photographs of the parking garage and the cross streets where we left our car earlier in the day so we can find our way back. This may be the most important tip I give you in my blog! Simply pop your ticket into the machine located somewhere near an entrance to the garage and pay with your credit card. Your ticket will be validated and you can insert it into a second widow-height machine as you drive out of the garage.
Sher pays the parking fee for our car in a garage in Aix-en-Provence.
Have a great day in Aix-en-Provence. Just eat somewhere else.
La Nuit aux Invalides, Paris, France Military Museum The beautiful gold dome in the back? Napoleon’s tomb.
La Nuit aux Invalides is one of the not-to-miss highlights of a summer night in Paris. The monumental sound and light show is displayed on the interior courtyard of the Military Museum. The late night spectacle – it starts at 10:30 pm – is a sumptuous display of video, narration and music that tells the history of France in just 45 minutes.
We arrived very early because we wanted to make sure we got a good seat….meaning we did not want to stand or sit on the hard cobblestones. Turns out 30 minutes ahead of time is plenty of time. We spent our waiting time watching kickball teams of young people playing ball on the grass lawns in front of the museum.
The workers, however, responded to our request for seats and gave us a place to sit while we waited and escorted us to a small section of seats reserved for handicapped and elderly. After a month on the road we are a bit of both.
While waiting for the show we noticed hundreds of rabbits romping in the bushes outside of the military museum. One of the employees laughed and said the rabbits are very used to humans. “And what else do they have to do? So, voila! we have many, many rabbits.”
Military Museum rabbit. Paris, FranceMilitary Museum rabbit.
Rabbits aside, the computer-generated sound and light show gives breathtaking visuals from Gaul to the middle ages to the French Revolution and two world wars. The story line is all based on the history of the Sun King’s palace for the veterans of France’s wars and the many uses of the building for nearly 350 years.
Here’s the 2014 promotional video for the event. The promotional videos are just a tease for the beauty and spectacle of the show. Here’s the 2016 promotional video.
You can buy tickets at the museum or online for about 18 Euros. The show is presented in English on Monday and Thursday nights.
The Invalides metro stop is nearby but we Ubered over for about 7 Euros and got dropped off at the front gate.
After the show, we called another Uber who arrived in about 5 minutes. It was thrilling to see Paris lit up at night. We should have done a night right earlier because everything was so beautiful.
The French National Assembly lit up in blue white and red. Notice the flags at halfstaff in the front in honor of those who died in Nice. Paris, France.
I read about nightmare traffic jams near Nice, France so we parked our car in Frejus and took a scenic train to Nice. It seemed like a great decision until we realized we were in a little suburb of Frejus , we would have to ride to Caan and change trains, and trains home would be infrequent. On the upside, travel was cheap – less than 20 Euros roundtrip – seats were comfortable, and the view was spectacular! Well worth any time lost by training rather than driving.
The little train station in Frejus. We parked all day for free in a nearby lot.Our train tickets – make sure to ask for the student or senior citizen rate if you are eligible.
Because we had 45 minutes before our train arrived, we decided to go looking for the Roman coliseum near the train station. We followed our smartphone directions and discovered most of the arena has been rebuilt right on top of the old Roman ruin. It was not open when we arrived but we did get to see how the old is made new for current use.
The new Frejus arena is built right on top of the old Roman arena.
We enjoyed a quick look around and headed back to the Gare (train station) to catch our train for Nice.
Our train from Frejus to Nice, about 1.5 hours. We found seats in the upper deck on the sea-side (south) of the train for best viewing.It took a few minutes to understand the train schedule but it quickly fell into place for us and was super helpful for our return trip home.Our view of the Azure Coast from our train window.Another view of the Azure Coast from our train window.Arrival in “Nice Ville” by train.
Upon arrival in Nice, we walked out the front doors of the train station and into the Tourist Information (TI) building. We got maps and asked for details on bus service. We walked about a block to a bus stop that sold tickets. English-speaking Japanese tourists showed us how to work the machine and advised us to buy 10 tickets for 10 Euro that could be used by any number of travelers rather than all day passes that would cost us 6 Euro each. We saved 2 Euro! And it turned out we rode the bus five times so we used all 10 tickets.
Nice bus drivers are the rudest people we have met in all of France. They will not give you directions, they will not tell you if you are on the correct bus to get to the train station, they will not smile. We were on a bus heading for the train station on a pretty tight schedule (the bus was at least 20 minutes late on its schedule) when the bus suddenly stopped and the driver ordered everyone off the bus! He said there was a traffic jam ahead. I’ve never been ordered off a bus for a traffic jam. We missed the train but fortunately we only had to wait an hour for the next train.
It really would have been helpful to have a bus map but the TI did not have one and we could not find one anywhere. I should have downloaded an app before coming to Nice, but live and learn. Best of all is that Nice is pretty compact, but hilly, and good walkers can easily cover the city on foot.
Nice may be named nice because the residents are wonderful! They quickly give you directions and point you on your way. They more than make up for the rude bus drivers.
Because we did not have a bus map, we followed signs UP HILL to the Musee Marc Chagall. It was about 95 degrees with high humidity as we trudged up the hill following signs to the museum. The man in the TI told us it was a simple walk in “that direction – just follow the signs.” We arrived at the beautiful stone museum with graceful gardens red-in-the-face, panting, and covered with sweat. Turns out we could have taken a bus right to the front door.
Exhausted, we bought our tickets (bargain day! Just 6 Euro for admission and 2 Euro for headphones…supposedly because a small gallery was closed?) and strolled over to the charming cafe for lunch.
I love this tree! She looks like a runway model wearing a leafy headdress. On the grounds of Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.The charming cafe on the grounds of Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.The cafe menu on the grounds of Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.Lunch – delicious! – for about 10 Euro. On the grounds of Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.
Then it was time for dessert: the art of Marc Chagall displayed in a modern stone museum built just for his work. Everything was located on one floor and the galleries were filled with light.
La Rose Bleue, 1964. I love Chagall’s stained glass even more than his paintings. The depth of color is brilliant. Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.Le Roi David, 1951. You can see that Chagall’s painting is full of imagery for good King David including a happy marriage (see the white bride?) Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.
A vera ma femme
ma joie al mon affeguesso
…Marc Chagall (a love note to his wife)
Le Cantique des Cantiques IV, 1958 (Solomon’s Song of Songs from the Bible). The very painting is a story of love. See the bride being carried away for a night of love on a magical horse? Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.These three paintings were once one painting. Chagall cut the three painting apart to make three separate paintings called Resistance (1937-1948), Resurrection (1937-1948) and Liberation (1937 – 1962). Chagall saw war as violent and tragic. Musee Marc Chagall, Nice, France.
Normally one art museum would be enough in a day, but I would only be in Nice on this day so off we went to visit two municipal museums. Tour books told me the visits would be free, but we were asked to purchase a 10 Euro ticket that admitted us to several municipal museums. It seemed a reasonable price but we were very disappointed at the lack of English signage or audio guide or printed flyer.
We took the bus downhill from the Musee Marc Chagall and a friendly rider on the bus told us where to get off and where to walk to get to the Musee Massena, a lovely La Belle Epoch house that treasures the history of Nice. While we were not sure what we were seeing, both the house and the gardens are beautiful and well kept up.
Musee Massena – Nice, FranceYou can see the Senate writing desk in the background as well as portraits of Nice leaders. Gates to the first floor. Musee Massena – Nice, FranceI am obsessed with this carpet woven to look like an animal hide. Musee Massena – Nice, FranceA belle epoch meeting room. Musee Massena – Nice, France
Feeling like we had the bus thing down, we strolled to the bus stop and discovered the woman from our previous ride standing right next to us. She happily gave us directions to our next stop. She was our guardian angel on this hot day in Nice!
As we rode our bus, we oohed and ahhhed over the gorgeous buildings of Nice. Every street could be a scene for a romantic movie.
French flags hung from many balconies during the run up to the big football game: France vs. Portugal for the Europe cup.A peak into the front yard of a Nice home.A pretty typical street corner in Nice, France.Old school awnings on a building across from the Galleries Lafayette in Nice.Love the aqua awnings on this building across from the Musee Massena in Nice, France.More flags for France. This orange house is pretty unusual for the city because most homes and buildings are a creamy hue with pastel blue, grey or green shutters. – in Nice.A shop window on the streets of Nice, France.See the giant sculpture peaking out from a break in this hotel wall? Nice, FranceA small blue lantern sitting on a window ledge in Nice, France.
We got off the bus and followed the signs to the Musee de Beaux Arts. We made the mistake of following the road signs which took us all the way around a block to our original destination because drivers need to avoid the one-way streets. But we were walking so not fun on a hot day.
If you are following the signs to your location, remember they are car signs, not walking signs.Just a few steps away has a whole new meaning when the steps go straight up! Nice, FranceMusee des Beaux Arts, Nice, France
The Musee des Beaux Arts was supposed to house a lot of works by famous artists and it is an odd mix of beautiful work. We found nice Picasso pottery, a couple of large works by Rodin, and lots and lots of work by Duffy. Because there was no English map or sheet, we could not find the other works even though we looked at everything in the museum. This makes a sweet little morning visit – I say morning because the building was hot and there is no lift to the second floor located up a double stone staircase. If you’re a Rodin-Picasso-Duffy fan, this place is worth a visit.
Piano located at the end of the first hall at Musee des Beaux Arts, Nice FranceRodin’s The Kiss at Musee des Beaux Arts, Nice FrancePicasso at Musee des Beaux Arts, Nice FrancePicasso’s Coupelle a la Oiseau at Musee des Beaux Arts, Nice FranceBeautiful early Renaissance painting is part of a hallway of Renaissance sacred paintings. This Crowning of the Virgin is by Giovanni da Gaeta from the 15th century. Musee des Beaux Arts, Nice France
Depictions of women have come a long way in 500 years! Mary, gowned in Renaissance robes, chastely kneels to receive her crown, her head bent in humility and the weight of her halo. The swimmer below rests casually on a robe, crowned by the sun. Even her belly button shows through her swim suit.
This Raul Duffy painting is hung on a recessed wall almost across from the Renaissance painting above. I love the color and the casual pose of La Grande Baigneuse, 1950. Musee des Beaux Arts, Nice France
Because of our visit to the Musee des Beaux Arts, I became intrigued with the work of Raoul Dufy (image, above). When I returned home to the US, I stumbled upon a lovely article by Ian Phillips in Elle Decor Magazine who wrote, “More than anything, the Frenchman was a painter of leisure. His favorite themes were the seaside, racecourses, and musical instruments and his canvases are filled with bright colors and a carefree spirit.”
Even though we were on vacation, we were women with a mission. So we hiked down the steep hill from the museum, waited a long time for a bus, got thrown off the bus two stops short of the train station, caught another bus and arrived at the station nearly 30 minutes early for our train back to Frejus.
People have asked about safety but there are police and soldiers everywhere. We saw this small force of three patrolling the train station at Nice. They asked a pregnant woman sitting on the platform next to me to put out her cigarette but they were friendly to the children and nodded to the waiting passengers.
Police and soldiers – always in groups of at least two and heavily armed – make their presence known throughout France. Nice Ville Gare, FranceLarge groups of school children are escorted on field trips just about everywhere we go. They were well behaved but we headed to the other end of the train because we knew we’d lose the footrace to the seats in the upper deck if they were our competition. Nice, FranceFive police suddenly appeared and questioned a young man about the contents of his pockets and luggage. After a few minutes, they escorted him off the train. We think maybe it was a drug problem. Everything was handled very calmly and professionally. Train from Nice to Frejus, France.
So that’s the story of our day trip to Nice. It was just enough time to see the city, shop at Lafayette Galleries, and enjoy extraordinary coastal views from the comfort of our train seats. Don’t miss Nice. It’s really – sorry – nice.
View from our train window of the coast between Nice and Caan, France.
I am totally smitten by the south of France. It’s kind of like the southwest USA but entirely different: Arid, rocky hills give way to lush green mountains anchored by flatlands of lavender and vineyards. Simply, incredibly, beautiful.
And the people! They are wonderful! No one speaks English until I greet them with “Bonjour” followed by my explanation that I do not speak French, even as I speak my pathetic French. I speak a little Italian, Spanish and Portuguese but I’ve always run from the complicated French language. In fact, that’s something I hear all the time from French people: it’s complicated.
But everywhere we go, French tourists and shopkeepers are quick to point the way, describe what we need to know and do their best to communicate in English to us. While the language is not natural, the people are. We could not be treated more warmly.
Our first road trip took us to Les-Baux-en-Provence on the recommendation of our friends, the Freshmans, who visited while on a Viking cruise. We were prepared for the beautiful light show (see Carrieres de Lumieres, below) but we were taken totally by surprise by the gorgeous approach to the hill-top town of Les-Baux-en-Provence.
We twisted through tight turns even as we climbed through sun-bleached rock formations. Breathtaking both because it was beautiful and also because we were scared to death we would meet an on-coming car with no place to pull over to the side of the road to pass. It was a bit like Sedona but with white rocks towering over us on both sides of the road. Beautiful homes were built right into the rocky hillsides often incorporating caves as part of their design.
The road to Les-Baux-en-Provence.The road to Les-Baux-en-Provence.
When we reached the town, we waited nearly 15 minutes for a parking spot to open in the 15-car parking lot next to the village rather than hike up the rest of the mountain. The picture below shows where we bought our parking pass – $5 for the entire day – after much coaching from some lovely French tourists. After a few hours of fabuloso shopping and gelato, we went to leave the parking lot when there was a tap on our window. “Do you speak English?” Yes, we do. “Can we have your parking pass? We can’t figure out how to use the machines. We don’t have Euro coins and it won’t take our credit cards.” Yes, you can. Where are you from? “Tampa.” No way! They live about 10 minutes away from us in the States.
The pay booth at the teeny tiny parking lot next to the delightful village. 5 euros for the entire day. Les Baux-de-Provence.
The tiny village sits at the base of an old, decaying castle in a medieval town updated in a Sausolito kind of way. My friend Denise Brewster thought all the little villages would look this way. She said this was a great place to start our trip because it was such a stepping-back-in-time village.
Les-Baux-en-ProvenceLes-Baux-en-Provence
You wander down twisty little streets that circle back on themselves then turn up or down the mountainside to be connected again by a flight of stairs. Shops the size of tiny living rooms feature timbered and plastered ceilings and lightly stocked shelves.
Les-Baux-en-ProvenceLes-Baux-en-Provence
Shops sell honey, tiles, hats, dresses, toys, postcards, candy, carved wood…just about anything you would find in an upscale tourist town. See something you like? Ask if they have more or a different size and the shopkeepers hurry out the door to a nearby warehouse to get you what you want. We absolutely delighted in wandering through the little village imaging what life was like here 500 years ago.
Sher Peterson selects a hat in Les-Baux-en-ProvenceLes-Baux-en-Provence
One of Denise’s best memories: “We sat on a terrace overlooking the village, eating rabbit and black bull raised on a local farm Barbara had a very nice pasta which was delicious.” Oh, my good God, the French can cook! We ate at Bautezar Restaurant where we relaxed with decent service and fabulous food.
Bautezar Restaurant in Les-Baux-en-Provence
Dining in Les-Baux-en-Provence
When we had exhausted all options in the tiny village, we headed for the sound and light show just down the hill. “You cannot miss the Carrieres de Lumieres,” my friends the Freshmans advised, “Great art is projected on the walls of an old limestone quarry.”
We purposely visited late in the day after the buses and hordes of tourists had left the mountain. We parked in a spot right in front of the show, walked up to the ticket office and purchased tickets for 12 Euro each.
Barbara at Carrieres de LumieresTicket office for Carrieres de Lumieres
We really needed restrooms after our very long lunch and way too much wine and we were directed down a hall to the left. Down the hall to the left ended up being a very, very long walk of about 2,000 yards down sandy paths and up short ramps! The bathrooms are immaculate but use the toilets before you arrive unless you’re ready for a very long walk.
The show, itself, was glorious! Images of Chagall’s paintings drifted through the air, landing on a stone wall or the ceiling or the floor or down a corridor. If you paused, the show landed on you and you became part of the festivities. Here’s a little video by Joelle Luce to demonstrate what a previous show was like. We didn’t see the Renaissance painters; we saw Chagall.
Works by Chagall at Carrieres de LumieresWorks by Chagall at Carrieres de Lumieres
The show is projected on 5,000 square meters of limestone walls. The story of Russian born French Citizen Marc Chagall is told through 12 dream scenes of a summer night. Music ranges from classical to Janis Joplin as the viewer slowly falls in love with the work of Chagall.
The works of Chagall at Carrieres de LumieresThe works of Chagall at Carrieres de Lumieres
