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London: Kensington Palace & Diana’s Fashion Story

Just approaching Kensington Palace, I feel a rush of anticipation and excitement. The grounds are lush, elegant white roses dot the hedges, people move quickly and quietly around me, and I stand a bit awed as I wait in line by an aging green metalwork canopy marking the doorway to the Diana: Her Fashion Story exhibit. My traveling companion has snagged tickets to this display of Diana’s gowns – a treat I never would have considered during this trip to London, but an opportunity I am madly anticipating.

First, we will get a glimpse of Kensington Palace because the exhibit is housed here. Then I’ll share a little art (hey! it’s me…there’s always art), a look into Diana’s closet, a stroll through the gardens, and lunch at the Orangery.

A large map posted at the entrance to Kensington Gardens shows us exactly where we want to go.

A second sign farther into the park tells me I’m headed in the right direction.

Kensington Palace. Note the black and gold gates at the left.

This is what we are here for: The Diana Fashion exhibition.

This is what is beyond the green awning.

The King’s State Apartments

Not only do we get to see Diana’s clothing, we also get a mini tour of Kensington Palace. A great two-fer! We start with the King’s State Apartments.

William Kent painted this stairwell in 1727 for George I.

Most guests take the stairs but we are permitted to take the elevator to the second floor and work our way back to this interesting staircase. The long red rope holds a chandelier.

The King’s Gallery with exhibits of ladies’ gowns from the 18th century and row upon row of great art.

According to a placard in the King’s Gallery, “Queen Caroline rediscovered a large collection of drawings hidden away in a cabinet at Kensington. She found works by Michelangeo, Raphael, Michelangelo, and Hans Holbein, who became the most important artist at the court of Henry VIII… Caroline displayed all 63 of them in this room.”

I have to admit that I feel like I’m the one who rediscovered these treasures. Folks just stroll on by, in a rush to see Diana’s clothing. Me? I’m just glad the guards don’t stop me for drooling. I snapped the photos of some of my favorites but the lighting was terrible. So when I got home, I borrowed the perfect images from the Royal Trust. Thank you, Royal Trust.

Esther before Ahasuerus c. 1546-7 by Jacopo Tintoretto (1519-94). Source: The Royal Trust.

Just look at the color! Of course, it’s Tintoretto. A little bit of Venice right here in London. The Royal Trust writes:

“King Ahasuerus’s second wife, Esther, learns that the King’s chief minister is plotting to have all the Jews in the Persian Empire massacred. Esther intercedes with the King and eventually he grants her request to spare her people. The intense colours create an impression of exotic splendour, while strong light heightens the drama. This painting has recently been dated to c.1546-7, just as Tintoretto’s career was about to take off with his first major commission, ‘The Miracle of the Slave’ (Accademia, Venice) of 1547-8…Ahasuerus is described as ‘clothed in the full array of his majesty, all covered with gold and precious stones’; in the painting his golden robe originally had more piment – a bright yellow pigment. Esther enters with two maids, ‘leaning daintily on one, while the other followed carrying her train’; she is ‘radiant with perfect beauty, but her heart was frozen in fear’. Tintoretto was one of the first artists to show her fainting, a motif that linked her to that of the Virgin collapsing at the foot of the Cross.” Source: Esther before Ahasuerus c. 1546-7

The Muses 1578 by Jacopo Tintoretto (1519-94)

“The nine Muses were originally seen as the divine inspiration for poetry, song and dance, but gradually became the emblems for all the liberal arts. With Apollo (represented as the sun) they also symbolised the ‘harmony of the spheres’. Here Tintoretto’s sweeping strokes have created powerfully articulated nudes who fly and turn with extraordinary freedom.” Source: The Muses 1578 by Jacopo Tintoretto (1519-94)

Katherine, Duchess of Suffolk (1519-1580) c.1532-43 by Hans Holbein the Younger (1497/8-1543). Source: The Royal Trust.

More images were scattered throughout the public areas of Kensington Palaces. They were paintings that would have been show-stoppers in most art museums; here, they were just the backdrop on the walls.

Van Dyck’s Cupid and Psyche, c 1639-40. Source: The Royal Trust.

In the Privy Chamber (a private palace apartment – say that fast five times!), hangs Van Dyck’s Cupid and Psyche, c 1639-40. It is “the only surviving mythological painting from Van Dyck’s employment as Charles I’s court artist.” Source: Cupid and Psyche, 1639-40 by Anthony Van Dyck (1599-1641)

The Queen’s State Apartments

After all my oohing and ahhing over the dazzling art, we follow the line of visitors to the Queen’s State Apartments, the oldest part of Kensington Palace. This part of the palace was designed by Christopher Wren in the 17th century. It is quite basic with wooden floors (if this were Flip or Flop, workers would be trying desperately to refinish the old floors and save the shiplap) and often-patched plaster walls. Ornate wood paneling lines many of the hallways with pretty blue and white ceramics posted on shelves high above our heads. I wonder if they are anchored with some kind of gum?

Vases standing over a doorway. Hope people don’t slam doors around here.

One of the back stairways. Thank goodness for the lift.

Diana: Her Fashion Story

Coloured paper lines the walls as we enter the exhibit. Look! there’s Diana as a young mom. Look! there’s Diana greeting her adoring public. Look! what do you see?

Greeting us at the entrance of the Diana exhibit is a sign that reads: The outfits of this exhibition track (Diana’s) evolution as a princess, trend-setter, humanitarian and woman, whose ability to connect with people remains powerful today.

I get to take my time as I wander through the exhibit, snapping photos. People are so courteous! I wait my turn and then the other visitors stand back and wait as I frame my picture and focus my camera. There is a heavy glare on the glass and a few of my photos are borrowed from the internet; if the photos are not mine, they are cited.

I love that the exhibit displays the designers’ sketches as well as Diane’s dresses. It gives me a better idea of the creative process.

Designer sketch of Diane’s famous sailor look. Emanuel, 1980’s.

I love the flow of this gorgeous dress with the fabric swatch pinned to the left corner. White and pale blue chiffon dress by Bellville Sassoon, 1981

Catherine Walker created more than 1,000 looks for Diana and you can see her creativity in many of the gowns in this collections.

Lady Diana Spencer wore this Emanuel blouse for a Vogue photo shoot in 1981. Because Diana loved this pale pink chiffon blouse with the satin neck ribbon, she asked Emanuel to design her wedding gown.

According to the Daily Mail, this is the only formal dress that Diana owned when she got engaged. She wore the dress to a ball in 1979.

The placard near this dress reads: “The princess enjoyed films and would visit her local cinema disguised with a scarf and sunglasses. She sometimes adopted style ideas from film stars. For this dress, designer Catherine Walker took inspiration from Grace Kelly’s gown in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1965 film, To Catch a Thief.” Diana wore this on the red carpet at Cannes in 1987.

This dress sparkled in the flash bulbs of the ever-present paparazzi during Diana’s Dynesty phase. Catherine Walker, 1986.

Diana wore pretty colors, especially when she was around children. She wore this simple suit for the Daily Star Gold Awards for Courage and Bravery in 1997 at the Savoy Hotel. Catherine Walker, 1997.

This is my favorite dress in the collection. The placard reads, “Catherine Walker embellished this dress with falcons, the national bird of Saudi Arabia, when the Princess visited there.” Catherine Walker, 1986

This is my favorite dress because I have never seen the gorgeous back of this dress. News photographs showed the front, but I had no idea the back features a cascade of birds. The placard says, “The high neckline and long sleeves also respected local customs.” Catherine Walker, 1986.

Diana sold 79 of her most iconic dresses at a Christie’s gala auction in New York City in 1997. The auction raised more than $3.25 million for cancer charities. She wore the dress, below.

This is a shift dress of cream printed silk with glass-beaded embroidery floral shift dress that Diana wore to a Christie’s gala in New York in 1997. Catherine Walker, 1997.

One of my favorite dresses is an Atelier Versace ice-blue silk dress studded with hundreds of stones. Created in 1991, it was one of Diana’s first non-British-designed dresses after her separation from the Prince of Wales. As a princess, she focused heavily on British designers. After her separation, she could spread her wings. She wore this dress for a Harpers Bazaar shoot.

As I leave, I read the signs printed to the gallery walls:

She was a princess. She had style. She did everything with grace and charm.

–David Thomas

Of course, the signs of praise are not the end. There is still the gift shop! I am sorely tempted to buy, buy, buy but my wallet cries, no! no! no! I decide to save my pounds for a fabulous luncheon.

The Kensington Gardens

Sign as you enter the gardens in memory of Diana.

This is what the sign says:

Diana, Princess of Wales lived at Kensington Palace for 15 years. She admired the changing floral displays in this garden and would often stop to talk with the gardeners…This year the garden team have created a White Garden to mark twenty years since her tragic death. Designed to be viewed from the walkway, the chosen planting is simple, joyful and elegant, creating a reflective space.

The White Garden, Kensington Palace, 2017

The White Gardens, Kensington Palace, 2017. I like that I can see some of the gardeners that make this stunning garden possible.

I sure did not expect to see palm trees in London!

Hollyhocks in the White Gardens at Kensington Palace. 2017

Luncheon at the Orangery

I’m hungry and we snap up the last seats available at the Orangery next to Kensington Palace. Host: Do you have reservations? Us: No. Host: Then I am so sorry. Reservations are required. Us: What about that table right next to the door? It looks empty. Host: Oh. OK. And he shows us to the best table in the Orangery. Us: Thank you!

The Orangery. Traditionally, this was a greenhouse where orange trees were grown. Royalty enjoyed the fragrant smell of oranges throughout the year.

Menu at the Orangery. Next time I am making reservations for breakfast – it looks delicious and a bit less expensive than lunch.

Lunch at the Orangery at Kensington Palace.

Order the Cappuccino and you get a lovely chocolate imprint of a crown.

Salad of smoked chicken, baby gem peaches, avocado, sherry dressing.

Jacob’s Ladder beef short rib, mousseline potatoes, baby vegetables. Outstanding!

The Children’s Playgrounds

Just beyond Kensington Palace – some say Diana could have spotted this area from her private windows – is the children’s playground.

According to the Kensington Palace website, “A huge wooden pirate ship is the amazing centrepiece of the Diana, Princess of Wales’ Memorial Playground. This children’s wonderland opened on the 30th June 2000, in memory of the late Princess.”

A few pay rides have also sprung up nearby.

Kensington Gardens – Looks like the attendant is having a blast, right? But look at the little boy down front in the center of the photo. He was jumping up and down, up and down, begging for a ride. He couldn’t wait to get on!

So we are home, but our memories remain. It seems appropriate to publish this chapter as we approach the 20th anniversary of Diana’s death. The Diana Fashion exhibit is now closed, but do visit Kensington Palace. And eat some breakfast at the Orangerie.

Works Cited

Cupid and Psyche, 1639-40. (2017, August 20). Retrieved from The Royal Trust: https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/search/site/cupid%20and%20psyche

Esther before Ahasuerus c. 1546-7. (2017, 08 20). Retrieved from Royal Collection Trust: https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/407247/esther-before-ahasuerus

The Muses 1578 by Jacopo Tintoretto (1519-94). (20017, 08 20). Retrieved from The Royal Trust: https://www.royalcollection.org.uk/collection/405476/the-muses

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Marseilles: Through the eyes of a native – 1. Unite d’Habitation

We were so very lucky to be introduced to Marseille by our new friends Carole and Daniel. Daniel grew up in Marseille and graciously showed us his favorite places in this French city by the sea.

It was an especially exciting time to visit Marseille because France was playing Portugal in the finals for the Europe Cup that day. Fans started celebrating early, carrying drums, wearing blue jerseys and filling restaurants up and down the sparkling beaches. Flags flew from balconies in every direction I looked. Excitement was electric in the air! Here’s a very short video of fans gathering to watch the game on big screen TVs.

The football stadium. The Europe Cup game was not held here but the stadium is loved by soccer fans. Marseille, France — Jean-Pierre Buffi designed the Strade Velodrome, the football stadium that was completed in 1998. The Europe Cup game was not held here in France’s second largest stadium, but the stadium is loved by soccer fans. Marseille fans viewed the Europe Cup match at large venues throughout Marseille that featured huge screen TV’s. Marseille France

I was tickled to see David standing in a traffic circle in downtown Marseille.

David in the center of a traffic circle. Marseille, France — David in the center of a traffi circle. Marseille, France

Daniel first took us to see the sea. We enjoyed the wind that wasn’t quite Mistral strength, but gusty winds blew steadily on us from the water and cooled us a bit on a hot and sunny day. Lots of people were strolling next to the sea on a Sunday morning so we had to wait for a break in the “traffic” to get a photo.

Daniel, Sher, Denise, Carole. Marseille, France — Daniel, Sher, Denise, Carole overlooking the sea in Marseille, France

Daniel then took us to a huge housing tower that we never would have seen on any packaged tour of Marseille. The building is a self-sufficient city within a city with housing, shopping, a school, recreation, restaurants, and a hotel. The hallways are called streets and resident committees create a rich social life.

One of the "streets" in the Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — One of the “streets” in the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

The French are so stylish! Here's the lobby of the Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — The French are so stylish! Here’s the lobby of the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

Swiss-French Architect Le Corbusier designed several of these all-inclusive habitats around 1950 but Marseille’s is the most famous. He strived to build modern living quarters for people in crowded cities; these were buildings where residents would never have to leave the building unless they wanted to.

Information about the history of Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — Information about the history of Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

An office in the Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — An office in the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

Lots of Realestate for sale. Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — Lots of realestate for sale. Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

Hotel located right in the high rise. Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — Hotel located right in the high rise. Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

There's even a school "Ecole" in this self-contained city. Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — There’s even a school “Ecole” listed on the elevator panel in this self-contained city. Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — Postal service at Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

I was thrilled to meet the artist Felice Varini as he finished his dizzying graphic in the building’s gym. The design offers a different perspective if you move even a few inches forward or backward, left or right. The Swiss-born artist lives in Paris and is known for his urban paintings on buildings, walls and streets.

The gymnasium of the Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France. — The gymnasium of the Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France.

On his website, Varini writes, “My field of action is architectural space and everything that constitutes such space. These spaces are and remain the original media for my painting. I work “on site” each time in a different space and my work develops itself in relation to the spaces I encounter.”

The rooftop of Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — I don’t know if this is Varini’s work on the rooftop of Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier, but something was certainly going on! Marseille, France

View of Marseille from Unite d'Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France — The rooftop view of Marseille from Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France

The designer of the building itself is LeCorbusier. He, perhaps, launched the Brutalist movement in architecture which used “raw” (brutal) materials such as unfinished concrete. (Some folks say the huge buildings are just brutally ugly but I like them.) In the photo below, the 66-year-old building is getting a bit of a face lift but the redesign still incorporates raw materials.

Brutalist buildings often incorporate repeated modular units and exposed building functions. You may have lived in a brutalist building while a university student. I can think of a couple twin towers at The Ohio State University when I was there (known facetiously by students and parents as Sodom & Gamorrah in the age of free love).

I kept thinking that this building reminded me a lot of the Habitat 67 at the World’s Fair in Montreal. Then I realized, this building was a bit of a deconstruction of Unite d’Habitation.

e6509bd8-2da6-4b8f-8860-5e175ecb7592-1020x612 — Designed for Montreal’s 1967 Expo, Habitat 67 was an attempt to balance cold geometry against living, breathing nature. Photograph: Landscape borrowed from the website theguardian.com

I’m no architect or even a critic. But I do find it fascinating that minds sharper than mine are working to explore new and better ways to live. I am thankful to Daniel and Carole for giving me the chance to tour Unite d’Habitation.

NOTE: We saw so much that I’ve split Marseille into three separate blog entries.

1. This is the first entry, Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France.

2. The second entry is Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. Marseille, France.

3. The third entry is the waterfront and a typical French lunch. Marseille, France.

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Marseilles: Through the eyes of a native – 2. Notre Dame

Daniel and Carole showed us the magic of Daniel’s hometown of Marseilles. After enjoying stunning views of the Bay of Marseilles at sea level and a panorama of the city from the top of Unite d’Habitation, we raced to the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde.

David in the center of a traffi circle. Marseille, France — We got to see David again in the center of a traffic circle. Marseille, France

Yes! Daniel is a true French driver. That means we got to each destination quickly, efficiently, and thrillingly. Not only was it interesting to see Marseilles through Daniel’s eyes, it was fun to drive with him at the wheel.

We saw many children riding behind their parents on scooters and motorcycles in Marseilles. Not many bicycles here, but lots of different kinds of motor vehicles.

When Daniel parked the car at the bottom of about 1,000 steps, I thought we were hopping out for a view from the bottom of the mountain upon which sits Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde on Marseille’s highest point. But, no, Carole started hiking up the stairs like voila! here we go. Sher and I looked at each other, gulped, and started climbing.

We climbed ALL of those stairs in high heat under a blazing sun. Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde in Marseille, France

I discovered this plaque along the way. Helpfully, the second paragraph is in English.

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde in Marseille, France

As we climbed, I kept turning around to take photos of the expanding panorama below me (and to catch my breath). The view just kept getting better the higher I climbed.

Can you see the ferris wheel down by the inner harbor? It was still huge when we were standing right next to it later in the day. Marseilles, France

According to Marseille’s website, “Marseille’s iconic figure, Notre-Dame de la Garde or “La Bonne Mère” watches over sailors, fishermen and the entire city…Garde Hill has three roles: a surveillance post, a military structure and a cult and pilgrimage site.”   As you can see in our photos, “The Good Mother” is definitely a surveillance post.

Soldiers patrolling the Basilique Notre-Dame-de la Garde in Marseille, France

The Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde, built in the mid-19th century atop a 13th century chapel, is also a place of worship. When we arrived, mass was being said. Here’s a tiny video of the mass.

Mass at the Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde in Marseille, France

The walls are made of white carrara marble. The red marble serves as a bridge to the intensely colored mosaics. The glorious gold ceilings lift your eyes to heaven. I’m thinking that’s probably the idea.

Several side chapels held further wonder but the smallish basilica was so crowded that it was difficult to get near anything.

The outside of the basilica is just as beautiful as the interior. It reminded me of many Florentine churches I’ve seen in Italy with striped exteriors. This church, built about 1850, features layers of white and green stone. There’s a large plaza in front of the church overlooking the city and the church is about two dozen steps above the plaza.

Going down the mountain was a LOT easier. I was so surprised when we reached our car that there was a huge tank with its turrent pointed up hill just steps from where our car was parked.

You have to look closely but the tank is in the middle of the photo behind the little square black car. In 1944, the Germans had taken Notre-Dame de la Garde. You can see how steep the streets are that the Allies had to climb from the sea to try to retake the high ground. Snipers picked the men off until a French soldier from Marseille was able to lead the men through a building and up a secret stairway to confront the Germans. A few hours later, the tanks made their way up the hill. They retook Notre-Dame de la Garde on that day, August 24, 1944.

So, next stop: the waterfront. Come with us to lunch and the sea!

NOTE: We saw so much that I’ve split Marseille into three separate blog entries.

1. The first entry is Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France.

2. The second entry is Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. Marseille, France.

3. The third entry is the waterfront and a typical French lunch. Marseille, France.

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Marseilles: Through the eyes of a native – 3. The beach

Our friends Carole and Daniel planned the perfect day for us in Marseille, complete with sunshine and breezes in this beautiful French coastal city. After touring all morning, we were hungry! So we looked for parking and lunch in a town crowded with soccer fans and Sunday strollers.

Parking garages indicate how many empty spots are available on each level. Marseille, France — Parking garages indicate how many empty spots are available in each garage in Marseille, France.

L'Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, France — A typical French cafe, the L’Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, France

Here’s a tiny video of Denise and Sher trying to figure out a French menu before they were brought the menu in English.

We ate outside on a screened porch but this is the interior of the L’Ecailler Restaurant in Marseille, France

L'Ecailler, Marseille, France — A surprise egg was holding the bass up to make the plate pretty and give a bit of lagniappe at L’Ecailler, Marseille, France.

The Everglades! in Marseille, France — Look what I discovered outside the restaurant: an Everglades sticker on a scooter! in Marseille, France. (I WANT this scooter.)

Full and relaxed, we headed out to explore the waterfront of Nice. As we walked, we passed a small market, a mirrored shaded area and the huge ferris wheel we had seen from the basilica.

There was a Picasso exhibit in Marseille but we had already visited Picasso museums in Barcelona, Malaga and Paris and we had viewed his art at numerous galleries throughout Europe (damn, that man was prolific!). So we skipped this exhibit although the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations building, itself, is stunning. It’s called the J4 (the name of the pier) for short.

See that lacy work extending out from the museum? That is concrete! It encases the building and provides shade.

The walls of the Museum of the European and Mediterranean Civilisations building features quotations from the Universal Declaration for Human Rights which I teach in my ethics courses. It was adopted by the United Nations in 1948 and set out for the first time fundamental human rights to be universally protected (United Nations). It was thrilling to see these words written on walls for all to see.

The real reason we stopped at the museum was to use the restrooms and take the exterior spiralling walkway to the roof. Once on the roof we climbed round and round the building to a bridge that connected the museum to an old sea-side port. The port has been rennovated into a relaxing space for concerts, cocktails and relaxation next to the sea.

This shows the the J4 museum and the bridge extending over to the old Fort St. Jean. If you look closely at the museum you will see the exterior staircase on the left which we used to walk around the building to the roof. Photo source: http://us.france.fr/en/events/picasso-lart-populaire-%E2%80%93-retrospective-museum-european-and-mediterranean-civilisations-marsei

DSC03657 Marseille France — Here we are crossing the bridge to the port. J4 in Marseille, France.

As we crossed the bridge, several young teenagers were stopped in the middle of the bridge calling down to boys diving into the sea and urging them to “Jump!” Here’s a little video of their antics. And here are the boys, below, swimming. And here’s a very short video of a boat coming into port.

We often stumbled upon choirs singing in unexpected places. This choir was singing in the courtyard of the old port next to the Marseille waterfront. Here’s a little video.

The bridge/walkway is a beautiful place to view Marseille. Here’s a city view I took while strolling.

Now here’s why we were going to skip Marseilles. Back home in the states, just before we left, I binge-watched the European crime drama series The Last Panthers. The series is set in Marseilles and concerns Balcan jewel thieves called the Pink Panthers. It shows a dirty, gritty harbor-front city where no one is safe. Ever. Alors, that’s television for you. Thank goodness Carole and Daniel changed my mind entirely about this wonderful, clean, happy city of Marseilles.

At the end of our very long and rich day in Marseille, we were blessed with a gorgeous sunset at our swapped home in Mallemort thanks to Pascale and Renee. We also swapped homes with Carole and Daniel in Paris and I look forward to lending them my home next spring. Homeexchange.com gives us such a rich experience when traveling in Europe because we get to live in real homes in real neighborhoods. More important, we meet the most wonderful people!

DSC03704 Mallemort France — Good night! Mallemort, France

We are forever grateful for this wonderful day with Carole and Daniel.

NOTE: We saw so much that I’ve split Marseille into three separate blog entries.

1. This is the first entry, Unite d’Habitation Le Corbusier. Marseille, France.

2. The second entry is Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. Marseille, France.

3. The third entry is the waterfront and a typical French lunch. Marseille, France.

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The KRÖLLER-MÜLLER Museum, The Netherlands – a secret treasure trove of Van Gogh’s

First you drive an hour east of Amsterdam past green fields and creamy cows, sharp industrial parks, and ever-changing speed zones. You arrive in the dense Hoge Veluwe National Park and abruptly stop at a gate with a small tourist booth. Believe it or not, you’ve arrived at the second largest collection of Van Gogh paintings in the world: The Kroller-Muller Museum.

Kroller-Muller Museum DSC00813 — A canopy of trees leads you to the the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

The gate keeper explains that you are in a national park and that while your Museum Kaart gives you free admission to the museum, you have to pay 9 Euros for admission to the park (the museum is in the middle of the park) and 6 Euros to drive into the park. You can save the parking fee by parking at the gate, borrowing one of the free white bicycles, and peddling four kilometers to the museum.

Kroller-Muller Museum DSC00815 — We chose to spend the six euros and drive the four kilometers into the park but you can see that many, many people chose to ride the park’s free bicycles into the De Hoge Veluwe National Park. Kroller-Muller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands.

It turns out the 4-kilometer drive into the park follows a pretty but circular route through the forests with a stop at the museum. When you leave it’s only about 1/2-kilometer back to the main gate. So it’s an easy walk or peddle to the museum if you go backwards from the gate rather than follow the long, circuitous route prescribed.

The museum, itself, is sleek, a modernist’s dream nested into a rich, green sculpture garden.

Kroller-Muller Barbie and Meneer Jacque DSC00960 — Meneer Jacque greeted me in front of the Kroller-Muller Museum.

The sculpture gardens are located behind the museum but you get a taste of the art as you approach the front door.

Kroller-Muller Museum Piet Siegers 1979 Landscape DSC00828 — Piet Siegers’ 1979 Landscape. Kroller-Muller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Andre Volten 1968 DSC00954 — Andre Volten’s 1968 sculpture. Kroller-Muller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Museum DSC00820 — You’ve arrived! Kroller-Muller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands.

The inside of the museum is just as beautiful as the exterior with clean, fresh lines and – unusual for most museums – lots of seating.

Kroller-Muller DSC00949 — Inside the museum.That’s a Calder hanging from the ceiling, Henry Moore peeping over the wall and fresh flowers in the foreground next to big, empty benches. Kroller-Muller Museum, Otterlo, Netherlands.

The Potato Eaters, Vincent Van Gogh

These are a few of the paintings Van Gogh created as he studied the local field workers. He was interested in how they worked and how they moved but he did not fill in or closely detail many of their faces. He was more interested in the light, the color, the motion of the moment.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Peasant Women Digging up Potatoes 1885 DSC00865 — Peasant Women Digging up Potatoes, 1885, by Vincent Van Gogh. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Head of a Woman 1885 DSC00867 — Head of a Woman, 1885, by Vincent Van Gogh. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

And here is Van Gogh’s masterpiece.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh The Potato Eaters 1885 DSC00870 — The Potato Eaters, Vincent Van Gogh, 1885. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

I know you are reading this because you are interested in Van Gogh – and there are more photos at the bottom of this blog. But so many other greats are featured at this museum! The best part of viewing paintings at the Kroller-Muller is that there are not hordes of people crowding around a tiny painting. You don’t feel pressured to move on after three seconds (think The Mona Lisa in the Louvre). You can almost smell the paint as you take a side-ways look at the artist’s brushstrokes and a guard doesn’t come running up to tsk-tsk you away. Visiting the Kroller-Muller is an extraordinarily delicious experience!

Impressionists

Here’s Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, a neo-impressionist artwork that Seurat created using the pointillist technique of painting with tens of thousands of dots of paint. Close up you might only see pink or green but at a distance, the colors blend and you’ll see brown. This painting was a huge hit when it was introduced in Paris in 1890. It led the way for new art movements such as my daughter Christie’s favorites, the Fauves.

Kroller-Muller Georges Seurat La Chahut 1889 DSC00938 — Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, 1889. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Here are close-ups of two sections of this painting. See what I mean about getting close without being rushed?

Kroller-Muller Georges Seurat La Chahut 1889 DSC00940 — This is a close-up of the lower left corner of Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, 1889. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Georges Seurat La Chahut 1889 DSC00939 — This is a close-up of the lower right corner of Georges Seurat’s La Chahut, 1889. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Georges Serrat Le Chahut 1889 DSC00934 — Here’s another side of Georges Seurat with A Corner of the Harbor at Hornfleur, 1886. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Many more impressionist artists are also represented at the museum. Here are a few of the paintings that attracted me such as this painting by Renoir of the Clown John Prince. Renoir was commissioned to paint this full length portrait by the owners of the cafe at the Circus d’Hiver in Paris.

Kroller-Muller Museum Renoir Le Clown 1868 DSC00846 — We can usually quickly recognize a Renoir painting, but this one took me by surprise. It’s only of his early portraits created for the owners of a circus. Renoir’s Le Clown, 1868. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Museum Renoir Au Cafe 1877 DSC00843 — A more traditional Renoir, Au Cafe, 1877. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Paul Signac Rotterdam 1906 DSC00929 — Because I’m in the Netherlands, I was drawn to this Paul Signac painting of Rotterdam, 1906. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Museum Isaac Israels Mata Hari 1916 DSC00834 — I love this very tall canvas of Mata Hari created by Isaac Israels in 1916. You can feel her power and dignity. I imagine she attracted attention wherever she walked. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Maurice Denis April 1892 DSC00851 — This painting attracted me just because it’s pretty. It was created by Maurice Denis for a young girl’s bedroom. He calls the 1892 painting April. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Camille Pissaro, whose work is below, is the artist who encouraged Van Gogh to paint with more color and to paint more freely. Pissaro was fascinated with the interplay of light and color, according to information provided by the Kroller-Muller Museum.

Kroller-Muller Museum Camille Pissarro Bazincourt 1893 DSC00836 — Camille Pissarro’s Bazincourt, 1893. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Van Gogh

As promised, here are more Van Gogh’s.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Country Road in Provence by Night 1890 DSC00924 — Here is detail of the painting, above, Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night 1890. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Country Road in Provence by Night 1890 DSC00922 — Here is detail of the painting, above, Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night 1890. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Country Road in Provence by Night 1890 DSC00923 — Here is detail of the painting, above, Van Gogh’s Country Road in Provence by Night 1890. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Still Life with Straw Hat 1881 DSC00860 — This is one of Van Gogh’s very first oil paintings. It is asw much an experiment of how to use the medium as it is a still life study of light and shape. Van Gogh’s Still Life with Straw Hat, 1881. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Van Gogh wrote to his brother, Theo, “You know Jeannin has the peony and Quost has the hollyhock, but I am in a way the one who has the sunflower.” (Taken from the wall of the The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.)

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh 4 Sunflowers Gone to Seed 1887 DSC00892 — Van Gogh’s 4 Sunflowers Gone to Seed, 1887. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh 4 Sunflowers Gone to Seed 1887 DSC00893 — Detail of Van Gogh’s 4 Sunflowers Gone to Seed, 1887. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer 1888 DSC00911 — I read that lavender fields only became popular about 100 years ago, yet…..Van Gogh’s Saintes-aries-de-la-Mer, 1888. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Olive Grove 1889 DSC00879 — Van Gogh’s Olive Grove, 1889. This reminds me so much of our view out the window during our wonderful two weeks in Provence. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Moulin de la Galette 1886 DSC00895 — Van Gogh’s Moulin de la Galette, 1886. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Bridge at Arles 1888 DSC00917 — One of my very, very favorite paintings. I bought a print for my home to remind me of this extraordinary painter. Van Gogh’s Bridge at Arles, 1888. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller Van Gogh Terrace of a Cafe at Night 1888 DSC00885 — This wildly popular painting of Van Gogh’s Terrace of a Cafe at Night, 1888, is available in purses, napkins, table cloths, mouse pads, calendars….just about anything you can think of at the fine gift shop. The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Flowers

The beautiful floral arrangements throughout the museum made this museum even more delightful. Here are a few snaps:

Kroller-Muller DSC00951 — Fresh floral arrangement at the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Kroller-Muller DSC00948 — Fresh floral arrangement at the Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

Make the trip to the Kroller-Muller Museum. It’s well worth the visit and a great break from the frenzy of Amsterdam. There are easy bus and train connections and the drive is interesting.

Kroller-Muller DSC00953 — The Kröller-Müller Museum, Otterlo, the Netherlands.

This has nothing to do with this visit to the Kroller-Muller, but you must watch this trailer for the upcoming movie Loving Vincent, just because it is such an original. Breakthru Films has taught 100 painters to paint in the style of Vincent for the movie. Cannot wait! Read more about the world’s first fully painted film here.

There’s also an interesting video about Van Gogh’s life here from 1Media if you’d like to know more about Vincent’s life.

Cuyahoga Valley National Park & Scenic Railroad

We decided to ride the rails for my granddaughter Maddy’s 8th birthday. So we drove through a blaze of fall leaves in Ohio’s Cuyahoga Valley National Park to ride the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad (CVSR).

cvsr-2016-dsc06736 — We caught the train at the very first stop at Rockside. That way we were guaranteed our seats in the premium panoramic car and we also got the longest ride, nearly 4 1/2 hours.

All aboard the Cuyahoga Valley Scenic Railroad with my son David, daughter-in-law Stacey and granddaughter Maddy. We were welcomed by the CVSR volunteers.

I last rode the CVSR nearly 30 years ago. I remember how excited Maddy’s daddy was to climb aboard the huge steam-driven train for a ride between Cleveland and Akron, Ohio. We rode with the windows open and cinders flew into our faces as we stormed down the tracks towards the newly opened Quaker Square in downtown Akron. The old Quaker Oats factory is now used by students at the University of Akron but it was a fun destination back in 1985 where we bought balloons and cotton candy before re-boarding the train for home.

Maddy and Stacey ready for the CVSR adventure.

Times have changed and my sophisticated little granddaughter climbed aboard the train with the aplomb of an experienced traveler. We shooed folks out of our reserved seats in the panoramic car (if ticket-holders don’t show up, they are available to anyone who wants to sit there) and tucked into our comfy leather seats for a 4-hour round-trip adventure through the Cuyahoga Valley.

Most of the train cars are different because the CVSR has purchased cars as they become available. This is a typical passenger car.

cvsr-2016-dsc06841 — One car featured strap-in seats for babies and toddlers.

Our conductor turned up just as we were about to take off with a basket of complimentary treats and drinks. He is one of the all-volunteer force that welcomes passengers and shares stories about the Cuyahoga Valley. We packed snacks and food for the trip and no one seemed to mind when we snacked as we rode.

There is a food car on the train where you can buy vending snacks or food at a snack bar. The train also features full breakfast (buy your tickets ahead of time) and frequent dinner trips.

I knew you would want to see the toilet facilities - here you go. — I knew you would want to see the toilet facilities – here you go.

The National Park is part of the Ohio & Erie Canalway. The 110-mile canal extends from Cleveland south to New Philadelphia. We caught glimpses of the canal during our journey along with peeks at swamps, forests and ravines. We didn’t see much in the way of wildlife but we did spot a few bald eagles perched at the top of dead trees in a swamp and a great blue heron flew alongside the train like one of Harry Potter’s snowy owls looking to deliver mail.

It was fun to whiz by cars stopped at the railroad crossings to get a perspective of what train passengers see when it's my turn to wait. — It was fun to whiz by cars stopped at the railroad crossings to get a perspective of what train passengers see when it’s my turn to wait.

cvsr-2016-dsc06769 — A typical pastoral scene in Ohio complete with a flock of Canadian geese.

cvsr-2016-dsc06820 — It was inspiring to travel under the turnpike and freeway bridges to see what man has created next to nature.

cvsr-2016-dsc06745 — One of their posters even publicizes the beauty of the bridges soaring over the train.

cvsr-2016-dsc06818 — This is a shallow bit of the waterways (maybe the canal) that lines the bed next to the railroad tracks.

There's something wondrous about traveling on a train and seeing the front of the train curving round a bend. — There’s something wondrous about traveling on a train and seeing the front of the train curving round a bend.

cvsr-2016-dsc06764 — We saw some little waterfalls along the way but the water was very shallow in October.

Our ride was smooth as we moved at a leisurely pace through the national park. We saw an equal mix of families and athletes along the trails and frequently passed the tiny farms and villages reminiscent of turn-of-the-century rural Ohio.

One of the many typical farms still existing in the national park.

cvsr-2016-dsc06749 — Wetlands in the Cuyahogal Valley National Park.

The week before our trip, our conductor had bicycled the tow path with friends and he said he was happy to be in our air-conditioned car while bicyclers rode in the box car near the front of the train. “You don’t want to be in there,” he confided. “It stinks!”

The CVSR operates a Bike Aboard!, Hike Aboard! and Run Aboard! program for cyclists, hikers and runners to traverse the Towpath Trail in one direction and ride the train in the other (CVSR). Like most of the other 1,700 passengers scheduled on the day we traveled, we chose to ride in the comfort of a passenger car and enjoy the passing scenery.

cvsr-2016-dsc06845 — There is also a nice selection of souvenirs ranging from high quality shirts to the parents’ favorite, a loud train whistle.

Maddy was mesmerized for the first hour but we were all glad that I packed coloring books, crayons, puzzles and snacks to keep her occupied as the morning wore on.

Maddy journaling her trip through the Cuyahoga Valley National Park.

As for me? I could have kept riding and looking out the windows for hours on end. Can’t wait to do it again.

For more information: www.cvsr.com, 800.468.4070

Arles, France – Van Gogh, Caesar, and everyone else

It was market day in Arles, so off we drove to the ancient little town in search of fabric, lavender, cheese and chanterelles. Along the way we discovered the trails that VanGogh followed and the wonders that Caesar left behind.

A ring road circles the inner city; on Saturdays wall-to-wall market stands blanket the ring road.

DSC03270 Arles — The ever-present security forces were cheerful as they made their rounds on market day in Arles.

DSC03250 Arles France 2016 — Marching past hundreds of market stands in Arles.

DSC03259 Arles France 2016 — That’s me trying to figure out how to get a watermelon home in my purse. Arles, France Market

DSC03258 Arles France 2016 — I wish I liked cheese – the selections were amazing! Arles, France Market

DSC03256 Arles France 2016 — Squash blossoms, anyone? Arles, France Market

DSC03253 Arles France 2016 — Every kind of olive – and I bought lots. Arles, France Market

DSC03249 Arles France 2016 — Arles, France Market

DSC03243 Arles France 2016 — I so wish I could have brought all this through customs. I wasn’t sure which would be considered spices and which would be considered seeds – customs confiscated my lavender last year. Arles, France Market

DSC03241 Arles France 2016 — I wish I could share the heavenly aroma. And, yes! I did bring home curry. Arles, France Market

DSC03232 Arles France 2016 — Market, ARles, France

DSC03235 Arles France 2016 — Just more and more wonderfulness. Arles, France Market

DSC03233 Arles France 2016 — The sweetest, freshest garlic. We took some home and roasted garlic with dinner. Delicious! Arles, France Market

DSC03261 Arles France 2016 — Here’s the forbidden lavender – I knew I couldn’t get it through customs. But the scent memory lingers. Arles, France Market

DSC03262 Arles — It was melon season in the south of France. Sweet and vibrant, the melons were our staple with nearly every meal. Arles, France Market

DSC03263 Arles — The euro stand thrives at French markets with all the little things you would find at an American dollar store, complete with “made in China” imprinted on most items. Arles, France Market

DSC03266 Arles — This old, boarded up building stood next to the market – no idea what it is or what it was once used for. But the grim, dirty structure reminded me of buildings left to decay on the streets of our rust belt cities. Arles, France Market

Puppies in a window. The French love their dogs and we usually saw pets in markets, under cafe tables, even in churches. But these were the only dogs we saw in the crowded Arles market. Arles, France Market — Puppies in a cage. The French love their dogs and we usually saw pets in markets, under cafe tables, even in churches. But these were the only dogs we saw in the crowded Arles market. Arles, France Market

The colors of Provence are subtle, worn and heart-breakingly beautiful. Arles, France Market

Van Gogh

Van Gogh’s life and paintings tapped us on our shoulders, demanding attention, wherever we traveled in Provence. Arles was ripe with reminders of Van Gogh’s prodigious work.

Van Gogh sat in a garden painting the entrance way to create L'Entree du Jardin Public in 1888. (The painting is now owned by the Phillips Collection in Washington, D.C. - one of my all time favorite galleries!) The sign posted in the garden contains Van Gogh's words in a letter to his brother: "Because I never had such luck, here nature is extraordinarily beautiful. Everything and everywhere the dome of the sky is admirable blue , the sun was a pale sulfur radiation and it's sweet and charming as the combination of celestial blue and yellow in the Van der Meer of Delft. I can not paint as beautiful as this, but absorbs me as I let myself go without thinking of rules." — Van Gogh sat in a garden painting the entrance way to create L’Entree du Jardin Public in 1888. (The painting is now owned by the Phillips Collection in Washington, D.C. – one of my all time favorite galleries!) The sign posted in the garden contains Van Gogh’s words in a letter to his brother: “Because I never had such luck, here nature is extraordinarily beautiful. Everything and everywhere the dome of the sky is admirable blue , the sun was a pale sulfur radiation and it’s sweet and charming as the combination of celestial blue and yellow in the Van der Meer of Delft.
I can not paint as beautiful as this, but absorbs me as I let myself go without thinking of rules.”

DSC03373 Arles Reglement du Jardens — This is the garden path that Van Gogh painted, as described in the photo above. Arles, France

DSC03374 Arles Reglement des Jardins Van Gogh — A tribute to Van Gogh just a few steps from where he once painted in Arles, France.

Stores throughout Arles sell everything from bobble heads to postcards in honor of their favorite visitor, van Gogh. Arles, France

The Fondation Van Gogh

The Foundation Van Gogh transformed the 15th century Hôtel Léautaud de Donines into a showplace for Van Gogh's art. Arles, France — The Foundation Van Gogh transformed the 15th century Hôtel Léautaud de Donines into a showplace for Van Gogh’s art. Arles, France

The Foundation van Gogh is a beautiful gallery that features the works of van Gogh alongside modern-day artists whose work relates. (Here’s an interesting article from the NY Times about the gallery opening in 2014.) We raced through the works of Glenn Brown, not quite understanding the connection, and a bit horrified at the personal agony undertaken in the art. But we were rewarded with the lucious paintings of Van Gogh.

Self portrait with Grey Felt hat, 1887. A museum display says the painting is, "very accomplished and portrays a more elegant van Gogh (than an earlier self portrait). It is well-considered and neo-impressionist experiment in his new modern style and technique, executed in strong, contrasting colors and expressive brushstrokes." — Self portrait with Grey Felt hat, 1887. A museum display says the painting is, “very accomplished and portrays a more elegant van Gogh (than an earlier self portrait). It is well-considered and neo-impressionist experiment in his new modern style and technique, executed in strong, contrasting colors and expressive brushstrokes.” Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

Van Gogh's Pollard Willows at Sunset, Arles, 1888 — Van Gogh’s Pollard Willows at Sunset, Arles, 1888 Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

Van Gogh's Avenue of Poplars in Autumn, 1884. The museum says van Gogh was an admirer of seasonal landscape motifs and was influenced by both Western art and Japanese prints. "Every year the arrival of autumn excited him and led to beautiful and slightly melancholic works." This landscape was painted near Neunen. — Van Gogh’s Avenue of Poplars in Autumn, 1884. The museum says van Gogh was an admirer of seasonal landscape motifs and was influenced by both Western art and Japanese prints. “Every year the arrival of autumn excited him and led to beautiful and slightly melancholic works.” This landscape was painted near Neunen. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

Van Gogh's Blossoming Chestnut Trees, Auvers-sur-Oise, 1890. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France — Van Gogh’s Blossoming Chestnut Trees, Auvers-sur-Oise, 1890. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

DSC03316 Arles Van Gogh - Snow Covered Field with a Harrow, 1890 — Van Gogh’s Snow Covered Field with a Harrow (After Millet) Saint-Remy-du-Provence, 1890. (Don’t you love the line after line of paint like waves in the ocean?) Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

DSC03312 Arles Van Gogh - Field with Trees 1888 — Van Gogh’s Field with Trees near Arles, 1888. (see those horizontal lines again?) Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

DSC03309 Arles Van Gogh - Fishing Boats on the Beach at Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer 1888 — My favorite painting in this collection. According to the museum, van Gogh was convinced that color was the key to modernity. That’s why I love this painting – the color! Fishing Boats on the Beach at Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, Arles, 1888. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

DSC03302 Arles Van Gogh - Sorrowful Old Man, 1890 — This painting breaks my heart. I can feel this old man’s despair. Van Gogh’s Sorrowful Old Man, 1890. Fondation van Gogh, Arles, France

Bistrot Arlesien

My favorite part of the day – lunch! We strolled around until we spotted the Bistrot Arlesien near the center of town. The cafe was empty (it was early) and we chose the perfect shady seats just out of reach of the hot sun.

DSC03336 Arles Bistrot Arlesien — We chose the special of the day. Delicious chicken, a crisp salad, and the expected French fries. Excellent. Arles Bistrot Arlesien

DSC03342 Arles Bistrot Arlesien — Menu at Arles Bistrot Arlesien, Arles. Lunch was about $15.

DSC03348 Arles — Painting on a column near our restaurant. Arles Bistrot Arlesien

Caesar comes to Arles

I was surprised at the huge presence of Rome in southern France. Every city seemed to have a bit of aquaduct or an arena to call their own. Those Romans were wiley! First they provided extraordinary infrastructure – roads and water – to their conquered citiies. Then they added government buildings. Entertainment soon followed housed in centrally-located arenas and coliseums.

Hard to turn my back on this view of the Roman coliseum! Arles, France

This coliseum still has it's third story placard in place, rare for a Roman ruin. Arles, France — This coliseum still has it’s third story placard in place, rare for a Roman ruin. Arles, France

You can see that modern entrepreneurism sits cheek to jowl to the ancient coliseum. Arles, France

The beautiful colors of Provence, ready to take home, next to the coliseum. Arles, France

Many of the ancient buildings have been used and reused over the centuries. This building was the Franciscan Cloister in 1469, the Chapelle des Penitents Gris in 1562, and is currently the College of St. Charles.

Ancient Antiquities

Arles takes its treasures seriously and established the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques in 1995. Of course, we had to see it!

Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques. Photo source: Arles-guide.com

Model of the Arles coliseum. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — Model of the Arles coliseum. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques

So what do you do when your city is under constant attack in the middle ages? How about building your city inside the walls of the long defunct coliseum? That’s what the people of Arles did during the 1500’s.

People built their homes inside the walls of the coliseum in medival times. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — People built their homes inside the walls of the coliseum in medival times. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques

Here's my man, Cesar. He couldn't be everywhere so a statue of his likeness was posted in every occupied town. Napoleon liked the idea so much that he sent paintings of himself for display in his conquered cities. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — Here’s my man, Caesar, about 100 BC. He couldn’t be everywhere so a statue of his likeness was posted in every occupied town. Napoleon liked the idea so much that he sent paintings of himself for display in his conquered cities. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques

According to the Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques: “In 49 BC, in the midst of civil war, Caesar who wanted to take the City of Marseilles that supported his opponent Pompeii resolved to build 12 ships at Arles which being completed and rigged in 30 days – from the time the timber was cut down – and brought to Massila (Marseilles)” (De Bello civili, I-36).

“At the end of the conflict with the supporters of Pompeii in the Iberian Peninsula, victorious Caesar rewarded Arles for its help by founding in 46 BC a colony under Roman law and granting it with part of Masilla-confiscated territories. He settled there the veterans of the VIth legion who had remained faithful to him during the civil war, whence the name of the new colony Colonia Julia paterna Arelate sextanorum this decision allowed the free Arlesian people to become Roman citizens.”

A Roman floor fount intact in Arles. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — A Roman floor fount intact in Arles. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques

Part of a grand Roman mosaic floor. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — Part of a grand Roman mosaic floor. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques

Statue of a captive slave. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — Statue of a captive discovered in 2007. The Museum says this is a high quality bronze figure of a man in the classic attitude of a prisoner, symbolizing that the people of Arles are now under the authority of Rome. This was a monumental public figure. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence antiques

Ancient lion discovered in Arles. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — Ancient lion of l’Arcoule was discovered in Arles. This lion, made from local materials, was unusual for the region and the era, was probably used as part of funeral art. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

I cannot believe these graceful scrolls were created more than 2,000 years ago. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — I cannot believe these graceful scrolls were created more than 2,000 years ago. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

More grace discovered in Arles, with flowing robes and curvy legs. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — More grace discovered in Arles, with flowing hair and curvy legs. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

So how did all this stuff get to Arles? Much of it was created onsite but much also arrived by boat. The museum features a preserved merchant boat that carried everything from rocks to wine.

DSC03393 Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — Merchant boat. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

DSC03396 Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence antiques — Merchant boat. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

So much Roman remnants have been discovered that sarcophagi cover an entire wall of the museum. These items are at least seven feet wide! Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — So many Roman remnants have been discovered that sarcophagi friezes cover an entire wall of the museum. These items are at least seven feet wide! Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

Close-up of a sarcophagus. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — Close-up of a sarcophagus from a later period of Arles history. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

Here's a close-up of the detailed carvings on a sarcophagus. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — Here’s a close-up of the detailed carvings on a sarcophagus. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

A Roman frieze. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — A Roman frieze. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

More Roman artwork. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — More Roman artwork. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

The museum offers free portable seats - most welcome after a long day of walking on cobble stones and asphalt. Musée de l'Arles et de la Provence Antiques. — The museum offers free portable seats – most welcome after a long day of walking on cobble stones and asphalt. Musée de l’Arles et de la Provence Antiques.

We only scratched the surface of Arles during our day trip. You could spend days here roaming the countryside, visiting the shops, enjoying cafe life, and meeting the residents. And I will – on another day!

Doesburg, The Netherlands – Go for the mustard!

We wanted to see how mustard is made so we drove to the tiny town of Doesburg about 90 minutes east of Amsterdam near the German border. We traveled for the mustard but ended up being totally charmed by the 13th century Hanse village of Doesburg. (Keep reading and I’ll share a mustard soup recipe, below.)

The Hanseatic League (now referred to as “Hanse”) was a group of merchant guilds and merchant towns in nothern Europe that banded together for commerce and defense beginning in the 1400’s. They had their own armies and legal systems but they were not a government. Their trade routes extended from London to Scandinavia to Estonia. They fought pirates, built ships, and controlled trade in the region for more than 300 years.

Source: http://vilnews.com/2013-06-hanseatic-baltics — Source: VilNews

Because they belonged to the Hanseatic League, little Doesburg became a prosperous medieval town until the River IJssel silted over. Today about 12,000 people live in the beautifully preserved town. Doesburg is popular with Europeans and more than 4,000 camping spots are located just outside of town for visitors.

DSC01580 Doesburg Netherlands — City street in Doesburg, the Netherlands.

DSC01572 Doesburg Netherlands — Pretty house. Doesburg, the Netherlands.

DSC01573 Doesburg Netherlands — Love these window well covers. Doesburg, the Netherlands

DSC01575 Doesburg Netherlands — City street. Doesburg, the Netherlands.

DSC01579 Doesburg Netherlands — Shoes displayed in a store-front window. Doesburg, the Netherlands

Right in the middle of town you’ll find the Doesburg Mustard Factory. They’ve made mustard in Doesburg since 1457 and still sell it in grocery stores today. According to their website, “Mustard is offered at every meal and is used with most vegetable and potato dishes” in Doesburg.

DSC01571 Doesburg Netherlands Mustard Factory — The Doesburg Mustard Factory. Doesburg, the Netherlands

DSC01564 Doesburg Netherlands Mustard Factory — The mustard museum’s collection of this and that formerly used for mustard making. Doesburg, the Netherlands

Mustard seed. Doesburg, the Netherlands

We dashed into the factory in the late afternoon and joined the last tour of the day with an entrance cost of about $3. A mustard maker explained how the seeds are removed from the dried bushes and soaked in a mixture of vinegar and water and spices for several days. The seeds soak up all that goodness and then they are ground into mustard.

DSC01558 Doesburg Netherlands Mustard Factory — Grinding mustard by hand with a small stone in a bowl. Doesburg, the Netherlands

The factory uses millstones that are hundreds of years old to grind the mustard. Here’s a video I made of our tour. Not the greatest quality, but you’ll get to see how mustard is made.

DSC01561 Doesburg Netherlands Mustard Factory — Here’s the mustard as it leaves the grinding wheels. Doesburg, the Netherlands

DSC01566 Doesburg Netherlands Mustard Factory — This machine used to be used to fill the jars. You can see in my video that a different machine is now used. Doesburg, the Netherlands

DSC01567 Doesburg Netherlands Mustard Factory — These are the precious little pots used to package the mustard at the factory. Doesburg, the Netherlands

The best part, of course, was the tasting at the end of the tour. We were so busy gobbling up fresh mustard and Gouda cheese that I forgot to take photos! Here’s the Mustard Soup recipe I promised earlier.

Doesburgsche Mosterdfabriek Mustard Soup

200 grams smoked bacon (1/2 pound)

40 grams butter (2.5 tablespoons)

1 onion

60 grams flour (1/2 cup)

1/2 litre milk (2 cups)

1/2 litre water (2 cups)

3 tablespoons Doesburg mustard

1 leek

Cut the bacon into small cubes; slice and finely chop the onion and leek. Melt the butter in a soup pan and gently fry the bacon, onion and leek until soft. Add the flour, stirring all the time so that it does not burn. Let this cook for a few seconds. Gently add the milk and the water. When this has been thoroughly sitrred, add the mustard and season to taste. For an extra luxurious soup: Add a couple of tablespoons of cream with the mustard.

Aix-en-Provence, France (say ACE in Provence)

What better way to discover the south of France than by planning our two weeks around the market days of the charming towns and villages scattered one next to the other throughout Provence? It was Thursday, so it was time to visit Aix-en-Provence (locals call their town “Ace”). Not only would we get to shop, we’d also get to see where Cezanne hung out, see the local cathedral and visit the “most beautiful tea room” at Caumont. We’d also learn that Aix is so much more than we had expected.

As usual, we got turned around and lost as we approached town. Sometimes we just had a hard time believing our GPS really wanted us to travel left down a tiny little street next to a crucifix attached to a wall in the middle of a road.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02482 — Go left here…. really? Aix-en-Provence.

But we did find our way to the center of the old town. One of the very first things I spotted was a landmarker in the midst of sales booths and vendors’ cars.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02504 — Landmark. Aix-en-Provence.

It said:

Here stood 22 August 1944 one of Sherman tanks of the armed Allied liberation of Aix in Provence , surrounded by the population of the city in jubilation . Landed 15 August on the beaches of the Var , the armies lost more than 2,000 men before reaching Aix , while the provencal resistance saw 140 of its guerrillas die under enemy fire, often summarily executed. They joined forces August 19, 1944, to all liberate the city from Nazi barbarism.

These men, those of Aix , those of the American 3rd Division , and those of the 1st Armee Francaise Libre, leveed in North Africa and Corsica , commanded by the Marechal de Lattre de Tassigny. These men coming from all walks of life, had all skin colors and all religions. They mingled their destinies and their blood for human dignity in the defense of democracy and the liberation of Provence.

This is the beauty of the south of France. Next to a profound statement is the fruit of struggle. People are free to explore the countryside and meet one another thanks to the sacrifice of others. I am grateful.

Market Day

Market day has been held in the same area for centuries. The Romans traded on these very streets before Christ was born.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02510 — Sunny days call for hats – and the choices are fabulous at a French market! Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02500 — I wish I could have thought of a lovely craft for back home from the mounds of memorabilia for sale. If I were a scrap-booker, this would have been in my luggage. But I’m a photographer so I snapped a photo and a memory. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02499 — I’m betting this was once someone’s pride and joy. A lovely full service of French silver. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02498 — I wanted to buy every one of these luscious beach towels but once again, the thought of paying for overweight luggage held me back. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02497 — Weekly market. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02662 — Loved this colorful display of aprons. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02490 — We picked a landmark upon arrival so we could agree to meet there at an appointed time if we got separated. Aix-en-Provence.

The Cafe du Palais

We arrived at the market hungry and bought up clusters of fresh fruits and vegetables for our home fridge, then we went in search of a cafe for lunch. We were more than happy to discover the Cafe du Palais with its hearty lunches for about $15 plus wine. Lesson learned from this restaurant: Before collapsing into chairs at the closest cafe, take a moment to see how the servers treat the guests. If the servers look like they are going to spend as little time as possible with you because they’re Jonesing for their next cigarette break, you might be better off somewhere else.

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02492 — Cafe du Palais in Aix-en-Provence

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02493 — The gravlax of beef with herbs was beautiful but cold and gelatinous tasting. It was exchanged for a hamburger and french fries. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02496 — The much better hamburger and french fries which were tossed on the table when the gravlax was refused. Take-away memory: This waitress took it personally when food was returned. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02494 — The delightful pasta dish was the only item on the menu that looked recognizable to me – it was delicious! No bread, no salad, just pasta for about $10. Tap water was an additional $2. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02495 — Carpaccio seemed to be on every luncheon menu in France. This rendering is pretty typical of a carpaccio luncheon in Provence, fresh, tasty, protein-y. Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais

Shopping

After lunch, we strolled and shopped, enjoying the windows and gasping at some of the exorbitant prices.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02666 — Plaza along the Cours Mirabou. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Gallery window 2016 DSC02678 — A delightful painting in the window of a gallery. The store was closed for lunch or I would have looked further into this painting. I love the whimsy and the color. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02502 — Sher and Denise window shopping at Hermes. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02509 — I love how sales are advertised. Stores often print special pillow cases, build special exhibits, leave manequins naked, or pop shopping bags over everything in the window to advertise a sale. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02644 — How adorable is this? Matching swim trunks for dad and son at just $95 and $195 each. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02661 — Chocolate is everywhere and D-E-C-A-D-E-N-T! Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02659 — We should have skipped lunch and just gone for the tarts in the local patisserie. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02652 — Street scene. Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02646 — Buskers performing on a street in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02489 — A pretty doorway in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Cafe du Palais DSC02487 — A churchyard. I don’t even know the name. Aix-en-Provence.

Enough shopping! On to some culture.

Musee Granet

Based on collections once owned by leaders of Provence, the Granet Museum houses about 12,000 works of art in the former Palace of Malta and at a chapel down the street and around a corner. You can actually take a virtual tour of the Granet Museum on their website but these are a few of my favorites from the collection.

Aix-en-Provence Chapell Granet Portrait d'aune Tahitienne 1891 by Paul Gauguin DSC02574 — Portrait d’aune Tahitienne, 1891, by Paul Gauguin. Aix-en-Provence Chapell Granet

Aix-en-Provence Chapell Granet Le dejeuner sur l'herbe 1964 by Pable Picasso DSC02596 — A tile called Le dejeuner sur l’herbe, 1964, by Pable Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Chapell Granet La Conversation 1968 Pable Picasso DSC02593 — La Conversation, 1968, by Pable Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Chapell Granet Femme au Miroir 1959 by Pablo Picasso DSC02601 — Femme au Miroir, 1959, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Chapell Granet Femme au fauteuil 1949 by Pablo Picasso DSC02597 — Maybe I love this artwork because I had a print of it hanging in my dining room for about 30 years. I wonder what happened to it? Femme au Fauteuil, 1949, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Chapell Granet Feme au Chapeau dans du fauteuil 1939 by Pablo Picasso DSC02584 — Feme au Chapeu dans du Fauteuil, 1939, Picasso. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Chapel Granet DSC02607 — This is the chapel where some of the art hung in a building down the street. Absolutely stunning. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Chapel Granet Bouquet de Fleurs 1886 by Van Gogh DSC02580 — Bouquet de Fleurs, 1886, Van Gogh. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet Les Tartaines 1925 by Charles Camoin DSC02537 — Les Tartaines, 1925, by Charles Camoin. Musee Granet in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet Jeune Napolitaine 1906 by Charles Camoin DSC02531 — Jeune Napolitaine, 1906, by Charles Camoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet

Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet Jeune Creole 1904 by Charles Camoin DSC02522 — One of the prizes of the collection. Jeune Creole, 1904, by Charles Camoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet

Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet Autoportrait en Militaire 1904 by Charles Camoin DSC02526 — Autoportrait en Militaire, 1904, by Charles Canoin. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet

Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet Autoportrait 1659 by Rembrandt DSC02553 — Autoportrait, 1659, by Rembrandt. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet

Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet Portrait de Camoin by Albert Marquet DSC02519 — Portrait de Camoin, no date, by Albert Marquet. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet

Cezanne is the star of Aix-en-Provence but the Granet displays just 10 paintings and owns another dozen, not displayed. Still, restaurants and shops are named after the all-star impressionist and you can see metal plaques capping cobblestones throughout town where Cezanne once painted. The capstones lead from the house where Cezanne was born to St. Jean Cemetery where he was buried.

Aix-en-Provence Cezanne DSC02569 — Plaque in the cobblestoned streets of Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet Portrait de Madame Cezanne 1825 by Paul Cezanne DSC02543 — Madame Cezaane, 1825, by Paul Cezanne. Aix-en-Provence Musee Granet

Caumont Center for the Arts

The Caumont Center for the Arts is recommended for its elegant tea room but the place is extravagently expensive. We stopped in for for a cup of tea and a dusty-looking pastry only to be shocked when we were charged twice as much for the “tea of the day”. Two cups of tea and a bottle of water came to just under $30. Service was very poor and we had to track down a server to take our order. They simply could not be bothered to bring us our check and we had to find a manager to help us with that. Luke-warm tea and a close and humid room on a hot, sunny day contributed to the discomfort and rude atmosphere in the beautiful tea rooms.

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02619 — The gray silk tea room. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02617 — The main tea room – with doors open to the outside the room was quite warm and humid, but beautiful. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02615 — A small tea room with pretty painting. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02623 — The outdoor tea garden. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02622 — Flowers edging the outdoor tea room. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02620 — The outdoor formal gardens. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

The restrooms were the real treat at the Caumont. We avoided the lower-level restrooms and used the first-floor toilet tucked into a small passageway near the outdoor formal gardens. Best restroom in all of France!

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02632 — The graceful sink features fine fixtures, cotton towels, and strong water pressure. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02636 — The small bathroom is tented above French toile wallpaper. I love the guilded mirror and the chandelier! Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte

The gift shop is another delight. Tables are elegantly staged and everything is for sale.

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02631 — The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02629 — The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02628 — The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02627 — The gift shop at Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02635 — One of the feature windows. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.

Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte DSC02634 — The stairwell. Aix-en-Provence Caumont Centre de Arte.

So my advice for the Caumont is to peek in the tea rooms – but don’t bother eating – tour the verdant gardens, enjoy the gorgeous gift shop, and leave with lovely memories.

The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour

The Cathedral of the Holy Saviour of Aix-en-Provence was built atop an ancient temple to the sun gods on the Via Aurelia, the Roman road built through the south of France. Begun in the 1200’s when Aix was the capital of Provence, the cathedral was completed just about the time Christopher Columbus was discovering America in 1492. The carved doors to the cathedral are made of wood and were commissioned in the early 1500’s. You can see the four old testament prophets surrounding the doorway and a dozen pagan fortune tellers above – they foretold the birth and death of Christ.

The altar piece painting is a masterpiece of the 15th century created by Nicholas Froment of nearby Avignon. Moses, guarding his flock, is astounded to see Jesus and the Virgin Mary rise from a burning bush. I’d also be pretty surprised if it happened to me. The people painted in the left and right panels are the folks who paid for the painting, King Rene (left) and Queen Jeanne (right).

This is an altar built by Audinet Stéphani for the Aygosi family. It used to be in a Carmelite church that burned down in the French Revolution so it was moved to the cathedral along with the altarpiece, above. You can see Saint Maurice in his coat of armor to the left of St. Anne, the mother of Mary.

I’m a fool for stained glass, and while I have no information, you can see that the window tells a story. Looks like maybe its the story of the female icons of the church, complete with a dog symbolizing loyalty.

End of the Day

At the end of every day in the south of France, we leave tired, happy and full of new memories. We take photographs of the parking garage and the cross streets where we left our car earlier in the day so we can find our way back. This may be the most important tip I give you in my blog! Simply pop your ticket into the machine located somewhere near an entrance to the garage and pay with your credit card. Your ticket will be validated and you can insert it into a second widow-height machine as you drive out of the garage.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02682 — Sher pays the parking fee for our car in a garage in Aix-en-Provence.

Have a great day in Aix-en-Provence. Just eat somewhere else.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02512 — Aix-en-Provence.

Aix-en-Provence DSC02608 — Aix-en-Provence.

Hoorn, The Netherlands

The pretty little towns and harbors of The Netherlands are the real magic of the lowlands. Hoorn, founded in 1300, became a VOC (Dutch East India Company) by the 1600’s. “Merchants, traders, seamen, dignitaries and authorities populated the then capital of West-Friesland” (Tourist Brochure, Mooi Hoorn 2016, Toeristisch Magazine). They created a harbor-side city of quaint brick buildings that are now embellished with the iconic Dutch trims and rooftops that let you know in an instant that you are in The Netherlands. It is neat-as-a-pin beautiful.

Hoorn DSC06388 — Houses along the shore in Hoorn lean against each other for support. Notice how the houses in the distance lean forward? That is so that owners loading goods into their attics would not have their stuff smacking the front of the house as they hoisted up the load.

Hoorn DSC06500 — Pretty cottages line the streets of Hoorn, the Netherlands.

Hoorn DSC06386 — When in doubt of your direction, look for a church steeple. It’s usually near the center of town.

Hoorn DSC06383 — This is one of the very narrow streets we drove down with cars parked on one side of the road and two way traffic maintained. We pulled our side mirrors in and held our breath…… Notice the brick buildings on the brick streets with the brick sidewalks? It felt like I was driving in a brick canyon.

Because the town is situated next to the water, when our GPS said to go right, it was really telling us to take a swim. Since we didn’t want to sink the car, we headed around the block and tried to find a new way to get to a small quay where we wanted to park. After several long and loopy right turns, we found a parking spot only to be waived off by a woman who said firmly, “No, no, you cannot park here.” Sher showed her our handicapped parking pass and with a large smile she pointed, “this way!” and we drove across a narrow bridge to one of two parking spots. The Dutch make space for the handicapped, but not many. Three cars squeezed into the two spots. But by some kind of GPS luck, we were right next to our destination: The Museum of the 20th Century.

Hoorn DSC06498 — This was our view as we ate our lunches next to the harbor. The benches in the front of the photo were part of a monument complete with silver suitcases and bags of goods. I think the monument may be about immigration. Hoorn, The Netherlands.

We hopped out and sat down on benches overlooking the scenic marina and a monument to – I think – immigration. As we dug into our hand-packed lunches a fine drizzle began to soak our sandwiches so we headed back to the car and huddled in the front seat as we watched the mist slowly turn into a deluge. Five minutes later, lunch was done, the rain had stopped, and we headed for the museum.

Hoorn DSC06491 — Our picnic view of the Harbor in Hoorn, The Netherlands.

Hoorn DSC06488 — We even spotted a river barge docked up in port which explained the many visitors who swarmed the town about the time we arrived.

The Museum of the 20th Century is a nostalgic collection of stuff used by the Dutch during the last century. The treasures are gathered into decades to show how technology has impacted family life, as well as into big categories like school or toys or shopping. Walking through the museum was like talking to a favorite granny about “What was life like back in the day?”

Hoorn DSC06484 — The walkway leading up to the Museum of the 20th Century.

Hoorn DSC06485 — The front door of the Museum of the 20th Century.

Visitors begin their journey through the 20th century by viewing typical rooms of each decade. A good narration on the free audio tour explains how technology freed women of hard manual labor and birth control helped downsize families from about nine children in 1910 to one child in 2000. Interestingly, most technology came to the Netherlands from the United States about 10-15 years after the US.

20s Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06403 — In 1910, homes were very small and families were very large with about 9 children. This family was well off and could afford an organ and a heating stove. Museum of the 20th Century, Hoorn, the Netherlands.

30s Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06404 — By 1920’s, some families entertained themselves with a record player.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06411 — In the 30’s, kitchens were rudimentary and cold running water was not introduced until the 50’s. The refrigerator was really an ice box – the salesman stopped by once a week with a block of ice – until well into the 60’s.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06481 — Laundry, anyone? In a wooden tub!

50s Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06422 — Television was introduced in the 50’s as famlies began to downsize after the war to about 5 kids. There was only one channel on television until the 60’s.

50s Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06401 — The Danish modern rage was adopted in the Netherlands and family time around the dining table began to fade in favor of lounging around the TV in the 70’s.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06428 — The Dutch are proud of their thriftiness and apparently these banks were used by households to budget out the family expenses. The museum had several variations of this savings bank

60s Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06425 — By the end of the 70’s, the dining room had become smaller and conveniences such as transistor radios became popular.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06409 — You say you want toast? Sorry for the blurry photo but, really!

The 70s Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06430 — By the 80’s orange was the absolute rage and EVERYTHING was orange.

The museum acknowledges the challenges of two terrible wars during the 20th century which slowed down technological progress in homes. The museum also took a look at a typical shopping street in the early part of the 20th century. Families worked in shops, took a break at lunch time, and re-opened in the afternoon. Interestingly, people still love their small shops and there is no large grocery chain or big box store such as Walmart in the Netherlands. It’s been tried but never caught on.

The Dutch love their children and there was room after room of toys. It was so much fun to see what children played with and how it connected to the toys of my childhood!

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06470 — It’s Holland, so of course kids had to learn to skate early. See the pillow strapped to this little guy’s backside?

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06460 — Barbie was huge in Europe. I loved seeing NASA Barbie and Ken and airline Barbie and Ken. Of course, Ken’s flying the plane because we knew full well women couldn’t fly a plane.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06456 — Dutch Barbie & Ken.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06453 — Didn’t every little girl want their own sewing machine? I did.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06451 — I’m pretty sure my family owned this duckling jigsaw puzzle.

Hoorn Museum of the 20th Century DSC06448 — Can you imagine putting your kid on this killer tricycle?

There were roomfuls of goodies – TVs, cell phones, appliances and dishes that never made it to the museum displays; they were just grouped under variety and stashed in shelves in rooms. It was fun to wander through these rooms and remember what similar items our families owned when we were growing up.

The beautiful town of Hoorn and the sweet Museum of the 20th Century are well worth the hour drive out of Amsterdam. The slower pace is a healing antidote to the frenzy of Amsterdam and truly soothes the soul.