Rotterdam – Whimsy and wonder in the rain (go ahead, and say it out loud)

You know when you don’t expect to fall in love, and, yet, you do?  That was Rotterdam for me.  I was expecting a big port city with container ships in the harbor and heavy trucks transporting goods over crumbling streets.  Boy, was I wrong.  We skipped our planned harbor boat tour because it was pouring rain and chilly.  But in a pouring rain, from the enclosure of a small automobile, I slowly fell in love with the whimsy and wonder of Rotterdam.

This is where we entered the highway to Rotterdam.  See those cloudy skies?  Reminds me of Cleveland.  Cargo ships between Cleveland, Ohio and Rotterdam can make the trip in just under 11 days.
This is where we entered the highway to Rotterdam.  See those cloudy skies?  Reminds me of Cleveland.  Cargo ships between Cleveland, Ohio and Rotterdam can make the trip in just under 11 days.

 

By the way, it wasn’t raining just a little bit – I mean, I’m not a total wimp.  It was raining A LOT.

DSC02988 Rotterdam

The destruction of Rotterdam

On May 14, 1940, the German Luftwaffe carpet bombed central Rotterdam, killing 900 people. More than 1,000 bombs nearly leveled  the city, destroying  24,978 homes, 24 churches, 2,320 stores, 775 warehouses and 62 schools (Roep & Loerakker 1999, p. 42 Square 2.) When the Germans threatened to flatten Utrecht the next day (where I will stay this summer), the Dutch surrendered. This was done in spite of peace treaties and a cease fire.  The Germans attacked because they needed the Netherlands as a base to attack England.

Now, 75 years later, the Dutch people have built an extraordinary masterpiece of a city.  As we toured Rotterdam, we were slowly drawn in by the imaginative architecture. It’s like the worst had already happened and architects could now take risks to create a vibrant living space for city dwellers and workers.  When I returned home, I discovered a wonderful website, Architecture in Rotterdam, that informs part of this blog.  The reason I know the names of the buildings — and the history of the buildings — is because of this website.  The links I provide below each link up to a page that gives a more detailed description of the buildings.

Rotterdam
Bridge in Rotterdam
Bridge in Rotterdam
Rotterdam bridges
Rotterdam bridges
Here’s a bridge we took inside the city.  Loved the burst of red in the dreary rain.
Here’s a bridge we took inside the city.  Loved the burst of red in the dreary rain.
Also loved the pride of business and place.  We often saw banners promoting company pride in the Netherlands.
Also loved the pride of business and place.  We often saw banners promoting company pride in the Netherlands.
de Rotterdam
de Rotterdam

In his book Delirious New York, Rem Koolhaas describes a Manhattan Grid, a city within a city, that springs from the imagination of man and has nothing to do with nature (so take that, Gaudi).  This area of Rotterdam houses homes, a hotel, offices — more than 7,500 rooms – and is called, I believe, de Rotterdam.  There’s a much better image at Architecture in Rotterdam.

The White House, built about 1900, survived the central city bombing and today is still used as a luxury hotel.  You can read more about the White House at Architecture in Rotterdam.

The White House, built about 1900, survived the central city bombing and today is still used as a luxury hotel.  You can read more about the White House at Architecture in Rotterdam.

The Central Library was completed in 1981 and designed by Rotterdam Architect Bakema.  “The building is shaped like a cube with a cut off corner, a glass ‘waterfall’ where the escalators are located that connect the six floors” (Architecture in Rotterdam).
The Central Library was completed in 1981 and designed by Rotterdam Architect Bakema.  “The building is shaped like a cube with a cut off corner, a glass ‘waterfall’ where the escalators are located that connect the six floors” (Architecture in Rotterdam).

 

This is the Paperclip, a notorious project of 555 public housing units.  It was built in the 1970’s. 
This is the Paperclip, a notorious project of 555 public housing units.  It was built in the 1970’s.

“Since the presentation of the first plan the Peperklip was controversial. Architecture critics described the building as inhospitable, cold and merciless. Others praised the timeless, rational architecture, and saw the building as a liberation from the disastrous small scale. During the first year the building was often in the news, especially because of the many social problems among the residents: (Architecture in Rotterdam).

The hugely popular Cube Houses.

The hugely popular Cube Houses.

DSC03012 Rotterdam
The cube houses.

“The Blaak forest contains 38 cubic houses, several shops and three large cubes situated on a pedestrian bridge over the Blaak. It was one of the attempts to enliven the downtown area and to shift the focus from office buildings and traffic flow to housing and recreation. The Cube Houses and buildings around the Oude Haven (Old Port) were designed by the Amsterdam architect Piet Blom (1934-1999), who had previously designed similar experimental housing” (Architecture in Rotterdam).

OK – is this building just too cool for school?  We approached the building from many angles but never got close to it as it was always across a river or open water. I think this is the Unilever Best Foods office building.

OK – is this building just too cool for school?  We approached the building from many angles but never got close to it as it was always across a river or open water. I think this is the Unilever Best Foods office building.

“The new headquarters of Unilever Bestfoods was built on the site of the Blue Band factory on the northern tip of the district Feyenoord. Because the building was built as a bridge over the existing complex, the nearby site of the former brewery Oranjeboom was kept empty. The Merchant City district (Koopmanstadwijk), planned here, will contain about three hundred houses designed by architects JHK and West 8…Besides a smart idea to save space, the bridge building is a spectacular example of prefabrication. To not to disturb the production of the plant the building was erected 200 meters away on the Oranjeboom grounds” (Architecture in Rotterdam).

 

I don’t know what this is – but it’s spectacular.  Reminds me of Notre Dame’s flying buttresses.
I don’t know what this is – but it’s spectacular.  Reminds me of Notre Dame’s flying buttresses.
There is still a little open land in the city center as depicted by this rain-soaked bicycle.
There is still a little open land in the city center as depicted by this rain-soaked bicycle.

 

If anything is missing in Rotterdam, perhaps it’s open land for city play.  It could be there and I never discovered it.  But open land should be readily apparent for residents and tourists, alike.

Market Hall’s parking garage and mini-museum

The Market Hall was at the very top of my list of places to see in Rotterdam. I read about the new building in nearly every magazine I picked up last year and I was determined to visit this place.  I was not disappointed.  Let’s start with the parking garage.

 It was big and easy to navigate.  It was no problem finding a parking space – just look for a bright green light over a space, indicating the space is free; red indicates “taken.”
The parking garage for Markt Hall is big and easy to navigate.  It was no problem finding a parking space – just look for a bright green light over a space, indicating the space is free; red indicates “taken.”
We parked in so many different garages in city centers that I finally resorted to taking a photo of our parking locations so we could find our way back to our car.
We parked in so many different garages in city centers that I finally resorted to taking a photo of our parking locations so we could find our way back to our car.

I was surprised to discover a mini-museum of the site in the bowels of the parking garage!  Apparently the Market Hall was built upon the ruins of a medieval housing project dating from 1350-1550.  Bits of pottery, housing and artifacts were included in the well-documented museum area.  Here’s what the sign said:

You are situated in the medieval city of Rotterdam.  The city came into existance in approximately  AD 1270 when the dam in the river Rotte was constructed in the spot where we now  find the Hoogstraat.  In the year 1340 Rotterdam was granted city privileges and in 1358 the city further expanded and was surrounded by fortifications.  To the south, two polders were added to the city.  They ran up to the city rampart at the present day Blook.  These are the two medieval housing projects Oostnieuwland and Westnieuwland.

Note:  if you say Dutch words out loud, they make sense.  For example, say Oostnieuwland out loud and you can hear “East New Land.”  Say Westnieuwland out loud and you can hear “West New Land.”

The Markthall is located in the eastern part of the district Westnieuwland.  A dike ran around the district with the residences of craftsmen and fishermen constructed on top of the embankment.  The archeologists of the municipality of Rotterdam excavated approximately 30 houses that were located on the dike.  The houses were made of wood and had thatched roofs.  Houses built of stone only appeared in the course of the 15th century.

Medevil housing 1350-1550, Rotterdam parking garage "museum"
Medevil housing 1350-1550, Rotterdam parking garage “museum”

I love that Rotterdam has their own archeologists.  I love that city planning existed in 1340 and cities had to get permission to expand.  I thought that cities grew organically but I was wrong: the requirements of daily living necessitated planning and permissions in order to grow and protect a society even 700 years ago.  This rocked my head and I had to seriously consider these personal discoveries.  My conclusion?  WOW. Way to go, ancestors.

The Markthall

The Markthall (try that little trick I wrote about earlier – say it out loud and it makes perfect sense) looks like an impressively dull, concrete bean from the outside.  But we entered from the parking garage below the building.

The Markthall
The Markthall

As we rode the elevators upward from the parking garage, we discovered the history of Rotterdam written on timelines inscribed on the sides of the escalators.  It was easy to get around thanks to maps posted throughout the site.

Map of Markthall
Map of Markthall
Elevators from parking garage to Markthall
Elevators from parking garage to Markthall

Then we burst upon the main floor and our jaws dropped as we gaped at the massive space topped with a cascade of organic visuals.  See all those little squares dotting the ceiling/painting?  Those are the windows of people’s apartments – residents look down into the the hub-bub of the market hall.

The Markthall
The Markthall
Rachel and Maureen at The Markthall
Rachel and Maureen at The Markthall

This view is from just above the hall looking out onto a series of individual terraces populated by a variety of restaurants.  Each terrace is accessed by an individual stairway.  When you dine on one of the terraces, you kind of get the feeling like you are floating in space with a bunch of boats tethered together.  I wanted to wave to the other diners like a boat passing at sea.

The Markthall
The Markthall
This is the view from inside the marketplace out of the two ends of the massive building
This is the view from inside the marketplace out of the two ends of the massive building
The Markthall
The Markthall

And here is the heart of the Marketplace:  the individual food sellers and restaurants.

People move fluidly between the first and second floors of Markthall.
People move fluidly between the first and second floors of Markthall.
One of several Markthall butcher shops
One of several Markthall butcher shops
Another butcher shop
Another butcher shop
Strawberries were in season and I wanted to buy some from every shop
Strawberries were in season and I wanted to buy some from every shop
I bought a fresh smoothy that was light and delicious
I bought a fresh smoothy that was light and delicious
Fresh fruit and veggies were organically grown
Fresh fruit and veggies were organically grown
This was fun:  a square watermelon.  Rachel took this photo of me right after I knocked over an entire crate of truffles – this is me looking pretty embarrassed!  But I really wanted the photo of the square watermelon.
This was fun:  a square watermelon.  Rachel took this photo of me right after I knocked over an entire crate of truffles – this is me looking pretty embarrassed!  But I really wanted the photo of the square watermelon.
One of my favorite stops - Diet Coke!
One of my favorite stops – Diet Coke!
Every family has them...
Every family has them…
The fresh flower shop was smartly located on one of the floors between lower levels leading to the parking garage
The fresh flower shop was smartly located on one of the floors between lower levels leading to the parking garage
The flowers were beautifully arranged and the entire shop was utterly romantic
The flowers were beautifully arranged and the entire shop was utterly romantic
One of the cheese shops
One of the cheese shops
I soooo wanted to shop here for tulip bulbs but tulips do not do well in the tropics where I live and it is illegal to bring tulip bulbs in your luggage into the USA
I soooo wanted to shop here for tulip bulbs but tulips do not do well in the tropics where I live and it is illegal to bring tulip bulbs in your luggage into the USA
Marktplace restaurants

We chose to eat at a Tapas Bar – great choice!  A bit spicy but Maureen was happy with her oysters and I got to eat everything too spicy for Maureen and Rachel.  Lucky me.

Markthall tapas bar
Markthall tapas bar
Patate fritte
Patate fritte
Spanish meatballs
Spanish meatballs
Spicy shrimp
Spicy shrimp
The things I do in the name of travel: no Diet Coke
The things I do in the name of travel: no Diet Coke
Oysters for Maureen
Oysters for Maureen

Technical Problems in the Parking Garage

I tried to use my new chip card in the parking garage and the machine ate it.  Remember when I said to read the words out loud and they would make sense?  It was pretty easy to understand that “Afgebroken Pas Uitnemen” meant – “you broke the machine, idiot.”  So I pressed the little speaker button and said in my very best Dutch. “Helpen!  Do you speak English, please?”  I didn’t say please in Dutch because it’s alsjeblieft – try saying that out loud.  It sounds like, “I just killed your bleating sheep.”

Parking garage keypad
Parking garage keypad

A lovely woman showed up about 5 minutes later, opened up the guts of the machine, tapped a few key commands, and returned my chip card to me along with a paid receipt.  I always wondered what the insides of these machines look like – and now you know too.  And I said dankjewel.

Fixing the parking lot machine I broke.
Fixing the parking lot machine I broke.

I will return to Rotterdam this summer.  I want to take the harbor tour and I want to walk through the city on a sunny day.  So look for a new Rotterdam blog next summer.