After leaving the rain and cobblestones behind in Pompeii, we decided to spend the night in Cassino — midway between Pompeii and Rome. This would give us an early start to drive into Rome in the morning while treating ourselves to a nice hotel and a great dinner.
We battled our Tom-Tom GPS system again (if it were not for exorbitant data charges on our smart phones, we would have thrown the Tom-Tom out the window in Naples and used our phones). We drove around and around and around in circles in the town center of Cassino looking for our hotel as the Tom-Tom taunted us with the “lost GPS” advisory, advised us to turn around on one-way streets, and took us up steep hills in search of a street that had nothing to do with our quest. When I finally got out of the car and looked up, there was a huge neon sign on the top of a nearby roof declaring Hotel Piazza Marconi.
We parked in a spot right in front of the hotel outlined in yellow (parking for residents only) and defined with a huge X through the entire spot. The manager assured us that this was our parking spot for the night. Nirvana! We had won the parking lottery! (Never realizing until we turned our car in to the rental agency the next day that someone had probably backed into our car during the night. So it was really a $300 parking spot once damages were paid.)
Our hotel room for three was large and immaculate. It featured a room-sized, private patio/deck overlooking the square but we were tired and did not take advantage of this wonderful amenity that night (too cold) or the next morning (too early). The Hotel Piazza Marconi is located at:
Address: Via Guglielmo Marconi, 25, 03043 Cassino FR, Italy
During our only night in Cassino, we went wandering the town square in search of a wonderful dinner. We found everything we wanted at Ristorante Cucina, right around the corner. We were really identifying with the upscale lifestyle of the citizens of Pompeii and we wanted to be pampered. We got comfort and then more comfort with the best meal of our entire vacation.
As we sat down in the intimate space, a wonderful server met us, apologized for her English, and then translated the entire Italian-only menu for us. Her English was wonderful! As we considered our order, she reappeared with a complimentary appetizer of a light, flavorful quiche.
We were prepared to splurge but prices were reasonable and selections were plentiful. First we focused on Primi (first plate) courses.
Ristorante Cucina, Cassino, Italy – Gnocchi di patate con ragu bianco di nero casertano, mozzarella, e carciofi fritti for 10 euros.
Ristorante Cucina, Cassino, Italy – Risotto carnaroli con porcini e zucca mantecato al cesanese for 10 euros.
We also ordered from the Le Carne menu. The pork loin was absolutely perfect.
Ristorante Cucina, Cassino, Italy – Agnello di Picinisco which is porchettato con cicoria e fonduta di cabernet for 13 euros.
A complimentary desert plate appeared after we had ordered desert but we ate the tasty treats with gusto.
Ristorante Cucina, Cassino, Italy
Then we made room for the way-over-the-top I sapori d’italia. It was rich, sweet, delicious, and too much to eat it all.
Ristorante Cucina, Cassino, Italy – panna cotta, sbriciolata, torta caprese, cioccolato e gianduja for 10 euros.
Not only did we enjoy wonderful food, we also appreciated the hugs from our very special server. I wish we had asked her name. She was extraordinary.
Ristorante Cucina, Cassino, Italy with my sisters Terry and Lyn.
Shopping is always required when traveling with the Kopriver sisters so before arriving in Cassino, we made a quick detour to the La Reggia Designer Outlet (because, of course, there would be no shopping in Rome). This upscale mall was crowded on a Saturday night and should have been very difficult to get to from the A-1 highway north of Naples. We threw down the Tom-Tom (I actually think I heard the b*&%$-in-the-box say, “maybe you should turn here or you could go a little farther and turn there oh, I don’t know, maybe you should have turned back there….lost GPS signal”) and we just followed the well-marked signs to the mall. The same accurate signage returned us to the highway after our shopping adventure while our Tom-Tom looked for a signal (but never found one).
The Designer Outlet mall featured high end designers in a lovely environment replete with flowers, signage that resembled that found in Rancho Sante Fe, California, and lots and lots of clothing. We were looking for luggage since Terry had over-shopped and we had our choice of four different luggage stores. Mission accomplished.
Casserta La Regia Designer OutletCasserta La Regia Designer OutletCasserta La Regia Designer Outlet
If you are traveling in southern Italy, consider a stop in Cassino. In 1944, more than 100,000 Allied troops lost their lives in four battles near Cassino as they fought for a clear route to Rome in WWII. Among the survivors was a huge Iranian bear named Wojtek. He carried artillery shells for the Polish army. The Allies dropped more than 1,400 tons of bombs on the Abby overlooking Cassino, thinking it was a German strong-hold. Today there is little sign of this terrible battle. Still, I would like to return and visit the Abby and explore the area a little more deeply. I’d especially like to see the Montecassino Peace Memorial. Europe has worked hard for peace and I respect the European Union so much for that.
My sisters and I LOVE Diet Coke. So when a cold and rainy day in Umbria turned into a bust with even the churches closed, we slogged our way to a brightly lit McDonald’s and reveled in ice-cold Diet Cokes. (Ask for lots of ghiaccio and enjoy the smirk the attendant behind the counter gives you. You can almost hear him thinking, “Crazy Americana wants ice in her drink.”)
In the hill towns of Umbria, it’s not OK to walk with your food. Take your time and sit with your Big Mac. If fast food ever catches on in Italy, they are going to need much bigger chairs and tables when people get fat on french fried and burgers. We perched on the tiny chairs and gulped down our Diet Cokes. We didn’t even have to translate the adorable bathroom doors that led to immaculate restrooms. You can tell McDonald’s has been designed to appeal to children but it felt like home to us on a rainy day.
Restroom door – Valdichiana Outlet Center 2016
Refueled, we headed to Valdichiana Outlet stores. Outlets are huge in Italy with several malls located close to town centers throughout the country.
Valdichiana-Outlet-Center made me feel like I was home in Florida.Valdichiana-Outlet-Center – loved this big, green sewing machine.Valdichiana-Outlet-CenterValdichiana-Outlet-Center – we liked window shopping seeing the very European vibe of the men’s clothing. I don’t think I’ll be seeing this look in my classroom in Florida.Valdichiana-Outlet-Center offers many treats for the sweet-tooth ranging from a big Lindt chocolate store to several specialty ice cream stores.Valdichiana Outlet Center 2016 – Animals travel in and out of stores with owners so it was unusual to see a dog tied to a trash can. Even the dogs are well-behaved in Italy. This one sat patiently and waited.
It was strange to shop the Gap and Polo in Italy with a rush of Italian shoppers. From merchandise to lay-out, the experience was the same as in Florida. Where were the Fende, Prada, Versace, Missoni stores? Not here, but there are true factory stores for many of the brand names. Just Google Prada, for example, and you will discover a store called SPACE in Montevarchi. The website advised to arrive early, get a number, and wait for admission to the factory store.
We just weren’t that serious about shopping and headed home well before the stores closed. Luggage allowances sure cramp our style!
We learned an important lesson in Arezzo – one of the most beautiful hill towns in all of Italy. Don’t plan your visit to the largest antique market in all of Italy if it’s off-season, in the rain, after noon. This is the sign we saw after traveling for two hours, finding a parking lot (follow the signs that say “Petri” car park), and taking a series of escalators to the top of the hill and the center of town:
Antique Market sign
Because we saw all the vendors packing up (the market was supposed to be 8-8 and it was only noon), we assumed the sign said “closed due to rain.” Nope, the sign says “total market sell-off; proceeds for the children of Africa. THANK YOU.” Huh?
A few hardy vendors continued to offer wares and we discovered inexpensive Murano glass figurines (about 80% off the prices in Venice) and alabaster lighters (a bargain at 5 euros and much cheaper than in Volterra, a hill town that specializes in alabaster). Extraordinary dining tables and wardrobes were offered for pennies on the dollar. With a little sunshine and the expected 500 antique vendors, this visit would have been one of the highlights of our tour of Umbria. Instead, we shopped in a chilling, drenching rain as we visited about a dozen vendors.
The hill town once known as Poppi is one of the easiest hilltops to access thanks to large, clearly marked parking lots and clean, modern escalators.
Escalators to the hilltop town of Arezzo
You can also park and walk if you are into climbing but we were thankful for the escalators.
Alternative climb to Arezzo
Since the antiques market was a bust, we decided to tour the lovely frescoes by Piero della Francesco in the Basillica San Francisco. Do churches really close on Sunday? Apparently they do in Arezzo on a rainy Sunday afternoon.
Arezzo Piazza Grande
We wrote Arezzo up as a major disappointment. It’s hard to get excited about a town that’s closed.
Terry had noticed a large outlet mall about 30 minutes south of Arezzo complete with a McDonald’s! Sometimes you have to leave the old world behind and head for the mall. You can read about our McDonald’s/Outlet Mall adventure at https://gograno.com/2016/03/mcdonalds-and-th…et-mall-in-italy
Things don’t always go smoothly on vacation. But sometimes what goes wrong makes for the best memories. Enjoy my sister Lyn Purtz’s account:
So, Monday morning in Umbria. Did we mention it’s raining? The weather is odd. We have needed to layer every day. But we never un-layer. When it rains, the temperature seems to drop 20 degrees. We are chilled to the bone.
Market day is in Marsciano. Everywhere we drive we do not know where to park, but in Marsciano we find a place right in front of the market! Vendors are selling more fruit and vegetables than you can find in Whole Foods. There’s also sausages, salted fish, anchovies, cheeses. Food trucks with a roasted pig splayed out; the porchetta vendor slices off a hunk of meat and places it on a hard roll with a little salt.
Porchetta wrapped in a rich spinach filling at the Marsciano Market.My sister Terry checks out pajamas at the Marsciano Market.Lyn tries on a pajama top at the Marsciano Market.Remember buying a little green turtle when you were a kid? They are for sale at the Marsciano Market.Not sure if these bunnies are for dinner but I think they are future pets at the Marsciano Market.Live goldfish for sale at the Marsciano Market.Spring is coming! Flowers are for sale everywhere in Italy.
The vendor trucks have awnings that pop up from the roof like an RV. They display their wares either on tables or risers that unfold out of the side of the truck.
See how the awnings fold into the trucks at the Marsciano Market?
A shoe vendor has about 150 boxes of shoes with one shoe displayed on top of the box. Bigger than some shoe stores. Pajamas, underwear, cashmere socks, sweaters, skirts, etc. etc. etc. We are in shoppers heaven! And then…I decide to take the packages to the car.
The Marsciano Market.
Whoops! What’s that green paper flapping on my windshield? A ticket. I put the items in the trunk, take the ticket off the car and head to find Barbara & Terry. Then we move the car…up a hill where the parking is free. And then we need to find the police station. We ask a tall man at the sausage stand for directions. Our lack of English doesn’t phase him at all but he gives up on our Italian. “Mama! Mama!” he calls to his mother in the sausage truck. “I’m taking these ladies to the police station,” and then he walks us all the way to the police station.
We follow him around curved streets, across piazzas and then to the government house that doesn’t have a sign outside. How were we to find this? “Sausage man” waves arrevaderci and leaves us there. All the Polizia are women dressed in severe black uniforms. But they are nice. They smile. They shake their heads in sympathy. They try to use our credit card for about 10 minutes before they shrug – “Allora!” – We pay the $28.00 ticket in cash. No one wants our credit cards, not even the police.
We should have parked the car at a parcheggio. Instead, we paid the $28 ticket.
We decide to head to Perugia, about 15 miles west of Marsciano. We hike uphil to the town center to visit the wonderful Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria – a museum that features six centuries of art and historic artifacts in chronological order. WOW! An elevator! We get into the elevator but it will only go to the 5th floor instead of the 3rd floor entrance. We take the elevator to the 5th floor and office workers rush out to tell us: The museum is closed. No reason why. It’s just closed.
The marvelous Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria in Perugia. This stunning griffin is all we saw.
We drive around the old town aimlessly lacking the incentive to walk in the rain and worried about our car. Since Day 2, our VW Tiguan flashed a symbol that we do not understand but does say that in 700 km if we do not add-blu the car will not start. Also, our GPS isn’t working correctly. We stopped at a gas station two days before to see what Ad-blu means: an additive to go in the car because it uses diesel. A man at the gas station we stopped at shrugs his shoulders when we ask about AdBlu so we call Eurocar, the rental company. We go to Eurocar and they try 3 GPS’s before they find a Tom-Tom that works, but they cannot put the AdBlu in. They send us to the airport in Perugia where someone speaks English and will take care of the additive.
Our AdBlu-hungry Volkswagon – a great car!!
But before we go to the airport…McDonald’s! Diet Coke with ice! A bakery and coffee bar inside. Clean restrooms with toilet paper AND hand dryers that work! But the crew works at the pace of Italy. Even though we are the only customers it takes about 15 minutes for a small hamburger and two pastries plus Diet Coke — which, in Italy, is Coke Light.
McDonald’s — and Coke Light — in Perugia.The Perugia highway.
Refueled, we go looking for the tiny Perugia airport. This is difficult because our new Tom Tom works no better than the previous one. Tom Tom’s do not like hills. Or cities. Or water. Our little advisor does not advise “recalculating route.” Instead, the screen of death reads “GPS signal lost.” I swear the Tom Tom gets lost more than we do. We decide to just drive downhill away from the city centers of hill towns when leaving a town and uphill toward the duomo when arriving in a town. To get to the airport, we follow five camouflage-painted trucks full of soldiers downhill, out of town, while we look for signs that will point to an airport. We see one. No, really, we see one sign to the airport. Just one.
The Perugia highway.
Our sister Terry goes into the airport, the Eurocar attendant shuts down the desk, and tells us to follow him in his car…for about 15 minutes…to a gas station. But the attendant and the Eurocar guy can’t figure out where to put the AdBlu. Under the hood? No! In the gas tank? No! Look for the manual in the car? No manual. Make a phone call. While making the phone call a big lorry pulls up. He needs AdBlu. We move our car away from the nozzled hose poking out of the back wall of the fuel station and let him fill up. Back to our quest for to find the hole in our car for the AdBlu. Where do we put the additive? Ohhhhh, in the trunk, under the carpet. Of course! Move everything in the trunk aside. Did I say we were shopping? AdBlu…who knew?
The little additive sign for AdBlu on the back of the filling station.Our man from Europcar who led us from the Peruggia airport to a filling station 15 minutes away.Searching for the opening for the AdBlu. Uniforms are big in Italy and they look terrific. Europcar on the left, the filling station on the right.
Relieved to be on the road again. Happy that the car will not stop unexpectedly (and we were told that YES it will stop without it).
How to end a lost day filled with travel mishaps and rain? How about a great dinner in Deruta at a Mom&Pop trattoria? Terry checks out Trip Advisor and comes up with a name. Tom Tom calms down and gets us to the tiny hole-in-the-wall on the first try. As we drive, the rain finally stops for the first time in six days. As I look to the left, a huge rainbow appears touching the hills in a perfect double arc. We see both ends of the rainbow as it shines in front of the mountain! Being Italy, there’s no pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, just the incredible beauty of the green and dirt hills of Umbria.
Double rainbow over Deruta, Italy.
We arrive at Osteria Il Borgetto in Durita and a gentleman our age greets us at the door with a welcoming smile and open arms. People in Umbria are so happy to serve you. Love this Place!
My sister Terry stands in the 6-table Osteria Il Borgetto in Durita, Italy.Spinach gnocchi with vegetables baked in a bubbling cream and cheese sauce.Pasta marinara and beans. Osteria Il Borgetto, Durita, Italy.Daily special: Roasted pork, mixed salad, potato. Osteria Il Borgetto, Durita, ItalyDesert: A tiny taste of 20-year-old Balsamic vinegar-sweet and rich. Osteria Il Borgetto, Durita, Italy
It’s been a long day of frustrations and fun. What else could go wrong? As we exit the freeway for the long drive around Marsciano, we turn the correct way towards town, we take the right turn on the rotary as we duck past cars trying to merge into our back seat, no drivers tailgate us an inch from our back bumper, no drivers bright us or honk the horn as we drive the speed limit, we take another rotary and make the correct turn the first time, we drive past the graffiti-covered centro sportivo, make another right turn on the uphill side of the sports center, take anther round about and head away from town (another correct turn), wind up the 1 1/2 lane wide road past the two huge houses set 12 inches from the roadway, spy the pink house near the top of the tall hill, turn right into the long and rutted gravel driveway, drive straight downhill on a slope that looks like it would be tricky to ski on, the rain starts – again – and the ruts overflow their already full capacity, we drive into the valley and lose our Tom Tom signal, we head uphill in the dark, dark night, we miss the first attempt up the steep driveway so we back up and make a running start and make it up the driveway, and we are home!
The road home to Casale San Bartolomeo in San Vensanzo, near Marsciano.
Small towns top the hills of Umbria like crowns set upon a rocky brow. Travel authors recommend one little hill town after another but we chose to visit Todi first because it was just 12 kilometers from where we were staying in San Gimignano. Perfect choice! Winding streets, an unusual duomo, rocky walls and a steep climb defined our first hill city. We were smitten.
This is our drive to the hill town of Todi, Italy 2016.
Todi was founded well before the birth of Christ at the confluence of the Naia and Tiber rivers; it’s about 90 minutes northeast of Rome and 45 minutes south of Perugia.
We actually drove into the city, climbing the hand-laid stone roads and tucking our side mirrors in as the buildings on each side of the street closed in on us.
Traffic continues on the narrow streets of Todi even as goods are unloaded for local shops. Todi, Italy 2016Storefront in Todi, Italy 2016.
We should have parked at the top of the steep hill, but we snagged the first parking spot we found in a yellow zone. (Blue-lined parking spots are for residents; yellow-lined parking spots are for visitors but you pay; white-lined parking spots are free.) We took out the little cardboard clock from it’s pocket on the windshield, set the clock to 1:00 to indicate the time of our arrival, purchased a parking ticket from an automated pay booth, stuck that ticket on our dashboard and set off to see the city. The little clock indicated to authorities what time we arrived; if we overstayed our allotted 2 hours, we would have been ticketed even though we paid for several hours. So we knew we had to climb to the top of the hill and return in just under 2 hours.
It was a cool but sunny day in March, so we walked briskly up the steep hill. Whenever we were lost, we just headed uphill. The highest point of each hill town seemed to be the central plaza with a cathedral which was usually where we were headed. To return to our car? We just headed downhill.
The beauty of this small town unfolded as we rounded each corner and continued to climb upwards. I could see why Architecture Professor Richard S. Levine of the University of Kentucky proclaimed Todi to be the model sustainable city. Todi had reinvented itself constantly from its birth as an Umbrian/Etruscan city through its years under seige by Goths and Byzantines to rule under the Popes to a leader in the Risorgimento movement to unify Italy. In the 90’s, the Italian press proclaimed Todi as the most livable city in the world…and it’s nearly 3,000 years old (Todi, 1992)!
An alley-way in Todi, Italy 2016.Todi, Italy 2016.A resident brings in firewood from an alley in Todi, Italy 2016.A side street with tiny steps to climb and long, smooth tracks for water to flow downhill. Todi, Italy 2016.
Lunch!
We arrived in Todi in time for lunch – and we worked up quite an appetite hiking uphill – but every recommended restaurant was closed in March. In fact, this was our experience in town after town. Restaurants and tourist sites simply were not open during the first two weeks of March.
We were happy to stumble upon a little local shop called Le Roi de la Crepe. Prices were very reasonable, ranging from 5-9 Euros, and the food was fresh and delicious. We were told it’s not acceptable to walk and eat in Italy but with no place to sit, we took our sandwiches and munched as we continued our stroll through Todi.
Le Roi de la Crepe in Todi, Italy, 2016.Le Roi de la Crepe in Todi, Italy, 2016.
Town Square – The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II
“Called Piazza Grande in ancient times, it was probably located on the site of the Roman Forum and was much larger than the square which can be seen today. Counted as one of the most beautiful medieval squares in Italy, it is surrounded by numerous palaces and is dominated by the Cathedral” (Bonechi).
The Prior’s Palace – across the square – was created by bringing several smaller buildings together under one roof in the 14th century. The tower used to be much higher. Todi, Italy 2016.The Captains Palace on the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, houses a museum which was closed the day we visited. Todi, Italy 2016.This is detail on a graceful bell that stood on the ground floor of the museum which was closed the day we visited. Todi, Italy 2016.
We tried to visit the museum operated by the Diocesi di Orvieto-Todi, but it was closed. The folks were pretty surprised when we took an elevator to the top floor and discovered a cluster of employees chatting away. They tried to figure out how we got into the building as they shooed us back into the elevator and out of the building.
The best part of the Grand Plaza had to be the ice cream! See the little white truck to the right in the square (photo above)? Just beyond that truck was the lovely Bacio di Latte (Milk Kiss) gelateria. Delicious!
We huddled under blankets as we sat in the sidewalk cafe enjoying Gelato. Todi, Italy 2016.One of the gelateria customers enjoying ice cream while walking her pet rabbit. Todi, Italy 2016.
Around the corner we discovered a beautiful, towering something. It looked like a false front from a film set. But it was the local branch of the oldest surviving bank in the world, founded in 1472 in Siena, Italy, about 150 km away.
The Banca Monte dei Paschi di Siena S.p.A. Todi, Italy 2016.
Views from Todi
We could not point our cameras from the hilltop without capturing a beautiful view from Todi. The trees and flowers were just starting to bloom. I imagine the sites are breathtaking later in spring.
Belltower seen from the hilltop of Todi, Italy 2016.Hilltop view from Todi, Italy 2016.
The S. Maria dell’Annunziata Cathedral
We huffed and puffed our way to the top of a flight of travertine stairs extending from the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele to reach one of the strangest-looking cathedrals I’ve ever seen. There’s no dome. No arches. No flying buttresses. Just a flat top like the architect said, “OK, I’m done.” More likely donations dried up because of an economic downturn or a war and the parishioners said, “Basta!”
S. Maria dell’Annunziata Duomo started in the 8th century and rebuilt in the 12th century and completed in the 16th century. The bell tower is from the 13th century. Todi, Italy 2016.
The 13th century bell tower was used for defense but now features bells that call to worship. The beauty spot of the cathedral has to be the double rose window in the center of the church, over the door.
The inside of the duomo is simple with a few artifacts of interest. Faenzone created the Last Judgement fresco under the double rose stained glass window.
Cathedral S. Maria dell’Annunziata. Todi, Italy 2016.
Can you see the little putti in each leaf of the rose stained glass window? The Holy Spirit is symbolized by a dove in the center of the window.
There’s a bronze hanging of St. Martin I hanging in the cathedral but I don’t know why. St. Martin was a pope and martyr who died defending the Catholic Church’s right to “establish doctrine in the face of imperial power” (Pope St. Martin I). He died in 656 after a miserable trip by sea from Rome to Constantinople and after being imprisoned, tried and denounced. St. Martin I was the last pope to die for his faith.
St. Martin 1, Pope and martyr, in the Cathedral S. Maria dell’Annunziata. Todi, Italy 2016.
Also of interest is a 13th century cross painted in the style of Giunta Pisano (Bonechi, 2011).
13th Century crucifix in the Cathedral S. Maria dell’Annunziata. Todi, Italy 2016.
There’s a pretty fresco at the front of the duomo but I could not tell who painted it. The painting is sweet with rich reds and oranges that are fading into pastels.
Fresco at S. Maria dell’Annunziata Duomo. Todi, Italy 2016.Stained glass window almost hidden behind a baptismal font near the front of the church. Todi, Italy 2016.A pretty madonna in the front of the cathedral. Todi, Italy 2016.
We loved Todi. So much to see and do! This would be a wonderful, romantic get-away-town for anyone to enjoy.
Todi, Italy 2016.
Sources
Bonechi. (2011). Umbria: Complete guide to the monuments, art and traditions of the region. Florence, Italy: Casa Editrice Bonechi.
Pope Saint Martin I. (n.d.). Retrieved from Catholic Online: http://www.catholic.org/saints/saint.php?saint_id=80
“Todi Come una Citta` Sostenibile,” keynote, Inauguration Convocation Academic Year Università della Terza Età, October 1992, Todi, Italy; “Todi Citta del Futuro,” and “Come Todi Puo Divenire Citta Ideale e Modello per il Futuro”, in Il Sole 24 Ore, Milan, Italy, November 28, 1991
Imagine you are a shepherd at the time of Christ’s birth. You graze your sheep on a tall hillside overlooking a steep valley, lushly green and deeply forested. A violent storm comes up with heavy winds and pounding rains that nearly knock you over. You gather your flock and ride the storm out in the nearest cave. In the morning when you wake and a little light filters into the cave, the first thing you see is Charon, the demon from hell staring at you from the other side of the tiny cave!
Shepherds made their home in the tomb of the quadriga infernale for centuries. They dug a little more deeply into the side of the cave but never disturbed the art created by the Etruscans centuries before. It was the the 19th and 20th century tomb raiders who chiseled into the ancient art to make a wider opening to the cave, destroying part of the paintings in their haste to find treasure.
An archaeologist led five visitors, including me, through a deep field to the Tomb of the Quadriga Infernale. He spoke no English but we were fortunate that an Australian woman was on the tour who was fluent in both English and Italian. As the archaeologist explained the tomb, she quickly translated for us. She was a goddess, quickly translating while nursing her baby as her toddler son ran circles around our legs.
We walked past several small Etruscan tomb openings that were long ago raided and are no longer studied. The openings were so tiny, I knew I never would have made it down the stairs let alone into the small passages.
One of several entrances to Etruscan tombs on a gentle hillside outside Sarteano. The tombs were robbed long ago by tomb raiders. Museo Civico Archeologico di Sarteano
When we entered the travertine tomb of the Quadriga Infernale (the chariot from hell), we were careful of the rugged dirt floor and I told myself to fall to the right AWAY from the cave paintings if I were to trip. My plan was to fall right onto the muddy floor that was once the home of a shepherd.
The cave was only 15 feet below the ground but we had entered a world of demons and myth. This tomb is exceptional because nothing exists in discovered Etruscan history with this version of the underworld. The demon Charon drives a chariot powered by two griffins and two lions. According to the museum, the demon has a “fearful, surly, possessed look.” This demon has never been seen driving a chariot except in this tomb.
The demon Charon drives the chariot from hell shadowed by a second black demon known in Etruscan stories. This is the only known depiction of Charon as a chariot driver. Museo Civico Archeologico di SarteanoThe wheels of the chariot from hell driven by Charon. Museo Civico Archeologico di SarteanoBadly deteriorated, you can see the quadriga (chariot) driven by two lions and two griffons. Museo Civico Archeologico di SarteanoThe diving dolphins represent the human dive into the afterlife. The Etruscans were extraordinary merchants and many took to the sea so they would know dolphins. Museo Civico Archeologico di SarteanoTwo reclining male figures on a kline (a banquet reclincer). Perhaps a father and son reuniting in the afterlife? Museo Civico Archeologico di Sarteano3-headed monster — one of many monsters — of the Etruscan underworld. Note the rooster combs and billy goat beards. Museo Civico Archeologico di Sarteano
Before visiting the tomb, we toured the Museo Civico Archeologico di Sarteano in Sarteano, Italy. The beautiful little gem of a museum is perfectly curated with clean glass cases of Etruscan artifacts. It also includes a replica of the tomb of the Quadriga Infernale that is a fine depiction of the cave we visited.
This collar of gold was owned by an Etruscan in 200 BC and found in another tomb.
The Australian who translated for us noted, “Only in Italy could we walk into an ancient treasure.”
The “quadriga infernale” cave was rediscovered in October 2003 and is now open upon reservation only on Saturdays at 11:30 am in winter and at 9:30 am and 6:30 pm in summer. You can make reservations by calling 0578.269.261 or email museo@comune.sarteano.si.it.
Hoping this packing list is helpful to you as you plan your next dream trip! The list has evolved from a list used for Girl Scout packing, to a list used for packing for college, to this current list which was used for a 72-day summer trip to Europe, including a river cruise and a trans-Atlantic cruise. The only thing I had to purchase was an additional flash drive to store photos – an expensive purchase when I had a bunch of flash drives at home.
Believe it or not, I wish I had packed more ramen soup. There were a couple of times we were just too tired after a long day to go out and get food. The ramen is small, can be crushed, and is pure comfort food.
The Parlamentarium is the visitors center for the Parliament of the European Union. It’s fresh, interesting and a must see when you visit Europe if you want to gain a better understanding of Europe and it’s place in the world.
The Parliamentarium is located on a large plaza surrounded by tall, glass buildings in the new part of Brussels. I always think of Brussels as old stone buildings and gilt so I was surprised to see soaring blue glass office buildings in the downtown. Once I realized that the old town is more for tourists and shopping in Brussels and the new town is for government and business, I began to discover this split in cities throughout Europe. Of course Europe is new and vibrant. It just had never registered with my view of the old country.
I absolutely loved the Parliamentarium. Because of my visit, I better understand the roots of the European Union. The EU is so much more than open borders and common currency.
I took subways across town from the Grand Place. As I walked uphill from the subway stop for Parliament, I passed numerous offices for the members of Parliament and the member countries. For example, here’s the front door to Hungary’s offices. These offices remind me of the embassies in Washington, DC. It makes sense that each country would need their own offices; I just had not considered that before.
As you continue your uphill walk, tall buildings break away to reveal a large plaza and the Parliamentarium. It’s a big, modern building made of glass that glows blue in the mid-day sun. A large digital screen tells you that you have arrived at the Parliamentarium.
Inspiration begins in the plaza with a shiny black monument on the ground just outside the front doors of the Parliamentarium. The plaque quotes the words of Father Joseph Wresinski, a priest who worked with the very poorest people of France beginning in 1956. He, himself, had grown up in poverty and social exclusion and he wanted better for his parishioners. Father Wresinski founded ATD Fourth World to layer evidence on top of soup kitchens and clothing distribution centers to provide research into extreme poverty. “Father Joseph’s firm purpose was to unite all sections of society around the very poorest (http://www.joseph-wresinski.org/Father-Joseph-Wresinski.html). The plaque in Belgium displays the same words as a plaque in the Trocadero Human Rights Plaza in Paris:
“Wherever men and women are condemned to live in poverty, human rights are violated. To come together to ensure that these rights be respected is our solemn duty.”
An unusual information/monument stood just outside the doors of the Parliamentarium, honoring Andrei Dmitrievich Sakharov, the Russian nuclear physicist, Soviet dissident and human rights activist. “The father of the Soviet hydrogen bomb, Andrei Sakharov, was awarded the Peace Prize in 1975 for his opposition to the abuse of power and his work for human rights” (Nobelprize.org). The words under the letter “S” say:
Shortly after winning the Nobel Peace Prize, Sakharov said, “International confidence, mutual understanding, disarmament and international security are inconceivable without freedom of information, freedom of conscience, the right to publish, the right to travel and the right to choose the country in which one wishes to live. Like Andrei Sakharov, the European Parliament strives to ensure that every citizen should have the right to form an opinion and live in a democracy.” The Sakharov Prize, which is awarded annually by the European Parliament for people and organizations dedicated to human rights and freedoms, is named in his honour (Wikipedia).
To enter the free Parliamentarium, I had to go through a body scan and bag check, typical of public buildings in Europe. Also typical, was a large locker area where I could stow my backpack and freshen up in sparkling clean restrooms.
Once inside, the teaching continued as I walked down a very long hallway hung with large posters that framed questions currently under consideration by the European Parliament: immigration, food, the seas.
Light-up models showed where the official buildings of the European Union are located in Europe with buildings in Brussels, Strasbourg and Luxembourg. The Parliamentarium website says, “Dynamic, interactive multimedia displays guide our visitors through the journey of European integration and the impact this has on our everyday lives. The Centre caters to all 24 official languages of the European Union and admission is free. The facilities have been designed to make them fully accessible to those with special needs.”
Signage within the Parliamentarium explain how the European Union was conceived and how it operates today.
When I visited the Nobel Peace Museum in Oslo two years ago, I learned that the European Union was not about a common currency and open borders – those were just artifacts of the European Union. The EU is about peace. The people of Europe were already talking about the importance of a union in the early 1900’s. The two plaques above quoted the dreams of two of Europe’s leaders.
A moving exhibit of WWII showed the horrors of war, including measuring faces to see if they met Arian standards.
That exhibit of ugliness was countermanded by an exhibit of the liberation of Europe.
I got to see photos on exhibit that I had never seen before and it was joyous to see the liberation through the eyes of Europeans.
The educational spaces of the Parliamentarium were state of the art with high tech lighting and electronic displays. In one rather odd display you ducked into a lamp-shade-like structure and read about people and ideas particular to the EU.
This is a display of the delegates to the European Parliament. Members come from 28 member states. Together they work out compromises and enact laws for the whole EU. I could read about the EU in six different printed languages but was happy to stick with English.
I sat in a replica of the parliamentary chamber and listened to debate about an issue important to the EU – then I got to vote on it as if I were a delegate. What a learning opportunity!
This was a really cool life size game. Players took control of a podium and read instructions on a case scenario. Then the players moved their podiums around the room to confront or compromise with other member countries. It was like an individualized Model UN.
An American? Who knows? I often could not tell the Americans from the Europeans.
You can virtually visit the Parliamentarium. The website includes virtual visits and deeper explanations of their purpose. This was one of my very favorite stops in Europe – equal to visiting the US Capitol Building. Don’t miss it.
The Grand Place (The Grote Markt) is the centerpiece of Brussels. Tourists twirl around the center of the square, snapping photos and shooting video. Gold gilt trims the fairy-tale scene. Graceful statues hunch into the facades of heavy, curleycued buildings. Look up! Winged sculptures balance on the rooftops. You can’t go wrong taking pictures here – every angle in every direction is photogenic. Now add to all this beauty the gentle waft of sugar: waffles and chocolate tickle your nose as you walk through the square. This is like cuddling with sugar plum fairies on Christmas eve.
There’s another side to Brussels equally enchanting. It’s the European Union Parliament located on the other side of Brussels. I mean, really? Gold, chocolate AND power? It’s enough to make a girl swoon.
Let’s start with my main reason for visiting Brussels: the European Parliament. Then I’ll move on to fantasy, shopping and dessert. My daughter Megan has taught me how to spell dessert – as opposed to desert – there are more s’s in dessert because you always want more. Maybe that’s why Brussel has two s’s – I want more!
European Union Parliament
The Parlamentarium is located two transfers by subway from the central train station. It’s the visitors center for the Parliament of the European Union. A friendly gentleman on the train helped me switch trains and then got off at the last stop to walk me towards the Parliamentarium.
The Parliamentarium is located on a large plaza surrounded by tall, glass buildings in the new part of Brussels. I always think of Brussels as old stone buildings and gilt so I was surprised to see soaring blue glass office buildings in the downtown. Once I realized that the old town is more for tourists and shopping and the new town is for business, I began to discover this split in cities throughout Europe. Of course Europe is new and vibrant. It just had never registered with my view of the old country.
I absolutely loved the Parliamentarium. Because of my visit, I better understand the roots of the European Union. The EU is so much more than open borders and common currency. It’s about peace. Because I report on the Parliamentarium extensively, I’ve created a separate blog. If you wish to read more, please visit Parliamentarium.
Security was visible throughout the city and I always felt safe everywhere I walked, even when I was alone at night.
Streets of Brussels
You can buy anything in Brussels as long as it is beautiful or it’s chocolate. There are more small shops than big made-in-China stores. The shops are intriguing with winding interiors and rich appointments. Each shop tries to be more inviting than its neighbors, drawing customers in with a mix of luxury, whimsy and quality.
This is a view from high up a hill overlooking the city. I am standing in the plaza of the Mont des Arts, an area heavily laden with museums and galleries. No time for a visit this time around but I will be back! You can see the spire of the Brussels Town Hall right in the center of the photo.
We met two American women traveling together who were absolutely charmed by Brussels. They gave us tips on shopping and sightseeing and pointed the way down long flights of stone stairs and twisting streets to reach the chocolate center of Brussels. They were smitten by the city and wished us well.
Clock Mont de Artes
Right next to where I was standing in the photo above is this building in Brussels featuring the clock mont de arts. Characters were built into the wall around the clock, a bell on the roof rang the hour, and a man with a cane stands next to the bell but I have no idea why. He is called the Jaquemart. A series of bells ring the hour and at 12:00 the figures used to come out of their niches. They don’t do that any more but it is still a beautiful clock.
Right across from where I am standing at the city overlook, this plaque was mounted on the wall. It recognized the Jews of Belgium who were persecuted during the Nazi occupation.
Just to the left of the plaque slept a homeless person bundled in a pink blanket. His dog slept nearby on the plaza. (He could have been a tourist without reservations but he looked liked he was pretty settled in and no one bothered him as he slept in the early morning sunshine.)
As I descended the plaza, I got to walk under this canopy of trees in the long park that leads to the Grote Markt. People were setting up long tables covered with cloths under the trees. I got the feeling they were setting up for a wedding feast but perhaps it was just an outdoor cafe setting up for the day. Chocolate called so we did not stick around to see.
Grote Markt
The Grote Markt is the central square of Brussels. The Grote Markt is Brussels’ Grand Place. EVERY building is gorgeous and coated in flourishes and gilt. You can turn in a full circle from the center of the Market and see nothing but beautiful gold and stone. You would think it could not get better than that, but as you turn, your nose picks up the scent of chocolate wafting from every corner of the square. This is, indeed, a grand place!
Comic strips and street signs
These images are a sample of the many signs posted high above eye level throughout Brussels.
The exhibit is based on A Brief History of the Future by Jacques Attali and is installed in two musuems at the Louvre Museum in Paris and at the Royal Museums of Fine Arts of Belgium.This sign advertises an art exhibit called 2050, a brief history of the future. The exhibit opened after we left but it sounded intriguing.Strip Feest – a celebration of comic strips.
The image above is for the Strip Feest – a celebration of comic strips. Belgium is known for its love of comic strips (some call it the comic capital of the world) and the Smurfs are huge hits here. You can buy a map at the train station that shows you where to find comics and comic graffiti; it costs about 50 cents. I prefer the chocolate tour.
Buildings of Brussels
So much time, so little to do. Wait. Scratch that. (Willy Wonka.) Thank goodness it was Sunday and these buildings were closed. There just was not enough time to see everything in less than a day. Still, we admired the architecture as we quickly walked by.
One smart thing we did was to start at the top of Brussels and walk downhill through the city. It was hot and humid on this last day of August and at least we had gravity on our side.
Subway
The subway is fast, safe and clean. The Jump ticket is just 7 Euros for all-day transportation.
The cars are open one to another so when riding on the subway, you can look forward and back and see every part of the train…..except when the train goes around corners. Then it’s pretty strange to lose sight of the front or the back of the carriage and have to wait for it to “catch up” with the rest of the train.
See that little red box in the photo above? You have to punch that button to open the doors of the train. Some of the older cars had handles but most had the push button feature.
Musée Royaux des Beaux Arts
We were traveling fast but did not want to miss the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. It was an easy trip across town on tram 38 using my JUMP pass. The grounds were burned out from the heat of the summer but people still lounged on the crisp lawn and visited with one another.
http://www.fine-arts-museum.be/en
I always map out the paintings I want to see so I can move quickly through the museums I visit and not regret missing something important during my rush. In addition to ancient 14th-18th art, I scheduled myself to see a Jacques-Louis David painting:
David, Jacques-Louis Jean-Paul Marat, Politican and Publicist, Dead in his Bathtub, Assassinated by Charlotte Corday, 1793
This painting is housed in Belgium because the artist David took it with him when he was exiled from Paris after the fall of Napoleon. David, the master painter of the rich and powerful in Paris, supported Marat, a radical journalist and a leader of the French Revolution. Marat had more than 200,000 of his political enemies executed on the guillotine before 24-year-old Charlotte Corday snuck into his bath and stabbed him to death to stop the killings. Corday was guillotined the day after Marat’s funeral. David gave this painting to the Republicans but when they turned their backs on Marat two years later, they returned the painting to David. David then became a Napoleon supporter but was ousted to Belgium when Napoleon fell. (thanks to 149 Paintings you really need to see in Europe).
This is why I love old art so much. You can admire the painterly olive green blanket contrasting the deathly palor of Marat’s skin but there’s also a story behind the painting. It’s what the artist does with the story that I find so fascinating. In life Marat had a terrible skin disease and withered arms but David painted a flawless, robust body to honor the man because Marat’s supporters “want to see again the features of their faithful friend” (Jacques-Louis David).
Mannekin Pis
“Manneken Pis is a landmark small bronze sculpture in Brussels, depicting a naked little boy urinating into a fountain’s basin. It was designed by Hiëronymus Duquesnoy the Elder and put in place in 1618 or 1619” (Wikipedia).
We had to walk a long way to find this little statue of a pissing boy. There did not seem to be a direct route from the beautiful Grot Markt to the statue. The streets turned along curved rows of buildings or seemed to be located around graceful squares. That meant there was no sight-line to see a clear path to where we wanted to go. This is what it looked like as we searched for a small pissing boy in a courtyard nook:
This is a pretty typical street view with cobbled walkways. Those cobblestones are tough on the feet and ankles! But the streets and walkways are immaculate. Scaffolding such as that seen on the building above is everywhere in Brussels. I think they must be rebuilding the whole city.
When we found Mannekin Pis, he was dressed in a Spanish costume. Remember how it used to be the rage to dress geese back in the 80’s? Apparently little boy Pis is dressed for special occassions and you never know exactly what he’ll be wearing on any given day. Manneken Pis is so popular that he’s even made out of chocolate and china and sold as a souvenir. Having raised two boys and having cleaned a fair share of bathroom floors where the boys missed sinking the cheerios in the toilet bowl, I’m left wondering, what’s the attraction?
Along the way we saw lots of souvenirs for Mannekin Pis. I took photos but made no purchases.
Sablon
We started out our day by shopping the Sablon antique market, the oldest antique market in Europe. The market is held in the shadow of Notre Dame au Sablon. This market featured about 100 booths with exquisite merchandise matched with somewhat high prices. Alas, no room in our luggage.
Notre Dame au Sablon (The Churck of Our Lady of Sablon)
You didn’t think I’d visit a city and not visit at least one church, did you? Here you see Notre Dame au Sablon, the church of Our Lady of Sablon. Built in the 15th century, this church was once used by the wealthy and the noblemen of Brussels.
I approached the church early on a Sunday morning and thought it was closed until I noticed a person walking out a funny side door set at a 90 degree angle to the ornate huge entrance doors, which were locked. I pushed on the little side door, stumbled into the church, and discovered a cavernous space heavily decorated with ornate church items: chairs, statues, and a massive organ.
I’ve heard that the Renaissance churches where built to inspire people to believe in God through Gospel stories often told in stained glass (most people could not read and books were costly). The organ was large and loud, meant to remind you of the voice of God. I like to imagine a young priest telling the story of, say, Daniel in the lion’s den, as he points from one image to the next to illustrate his story. When his story is finished, the organ comes alive, inspiring believers to understand the glorious rewards that await them in heaven.
The organ at Notre Dame au Sablon
Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries
The Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries reminded me very much of Cleveland’s downtown galleries, built about the same time in the USA. Both galleries have small shops on the lower floors and housing on the higher floors.
Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries
An informational sign at the Galleries said:
“Designed as a connection between two commercial poles, this monumental covered gallery was one of the first of this size built in Europe. Inaugurated in 1847, the Galleries were designed in 1838 by J. P. Cluysenaar. Both street and monument, the Galleries fulfilled commercial as well as housing functions and also had a social and cultural dimension, notably housing two theaters. Built in Italian Renaissance style, they also bear witness to the prowess and the innovations of steel and glass architecture.”
The best part of the galleries was lots of little chocolate shops.
Chocolate and Waffles
Were you reading through all my Brussels report just to get to the chocolate? I wish I could wrap up a piece of this deep chocolate treasure and hand it to you right through the internet. Instead, you’ll just have to see my photos and imagine fresh, sweet creamy fillings dipped into pure chocolate that is barely firm at room temperature. It truly was as good as it looks plus each little packet of chocolate was exquisitely packaged, making a doubly delightful gift.
We created our own chocolate crawl which was super easy to do because chocolate was sold everywhere! You can watch people making chocolate but most store clerks seemed to busy to stop to answer questions. Here are some of the shops we stopped by: Godiva, at #22, Neuhaus, at #27, Gallery at Rue au Beurre #44 (just off the marketsquare), Leonidas at Rue au Beurre #34.
Woman cannot live on chocolate alone, and so waffles were invented. Light, sweet, and totally yummy. They’re also a real bargain at about 1 Euro each.
Modern Brussels
Government in important in Brussels and huge, concrete buildings house government for both Belgium and the EU.
High-rise housing is under construction throughout Europe including this complex in Brussels.
Motorcycles and small cars are popular for moving quickly through the cities. Since we visited on a Sunday, the streets were not crowded with commercial traffic but we did get to see a contemporary enclosed motorcycle.
If you want to mail cards and letters, look for a little postbox like this one.
Euthanasia
So here I am in this gorgeous country with civil residents who graciously share their tidy city. Not only is it home to chocolate and extravagant buildings…. Belgium is also the place where five people choose to die each day with medical assistance.
In 2013, 1,800 people chose euthanasia; in 2014, the chance for euthanasia was extended to terminally ill children. I have a difficult time squaring euthanasia with the gentle charm of Belgium. It’s hard to know I may be biting into the most extraordinarily delicious piece of chocolate and as it melts in my mouth, a human being is choosing to die just down the road. I’m not saying you should live for chocolate; I’m saying I just don’t understand. I need to think about this some more.
Shopping
Brussels is a destination for high end shopping and we stopped in many, many stores as we explored the city. These are a few of the shops we tucked into during our day in Brussels.
When merchandise goes on sale at the end of the season. some stores advertise by putting bags over all the mannequins.
Train station – we’re going to France!
Brussels was actually just a stop over on our way to a week in France. Since we only scheduled a day here and I loved every moment, Brussels is at the top of my list for a re-visit in summer 2016.
We traveled the high speed trains from Rotterdam to Brussels (1 1/4 hours) and on to Paris (1 1/2 hours). The trains are sleek, comfortable, and fast. Really good Tourist Information (TI) stands are located in convenient locations like the train station. The attendants are courteous and well informed, making it easy to figure out our best options for tickets.
It is super easy to navigate the huge train station with information signs in English and video monitor signs in multiple languages. This sign, for example, tells passengers how to find their train car so they can quickly board once the train arrives.
“Your ticket shows you the correct coach number and your seat number. Take a look at the train configuration signs on the platform: they will give you the right coach information and show you the best part of the platform to get onto the train. This way you can easily find your seat.”
You examine your ticket and then look at the sign to find where to stand on the platform.
When the train rushes into the station, you are standing at the ready with your luggage and just hop onto your car. Easy peasy.
If you want to work off a little energy while charging your cell phone before boarding your train, you might want to try one of these bicycle-rechargers.
Or if you need snacks for your train ride, there’s a well-stocked convenience store with lots of selection including fresh foods.
Make sure to visit my blog on the Parliamentarium – it’s one of my very favorite memories of Brussels.
We got off to a late start from Wassenaar, putting us way behind our plans when we arrived in Antwerp. This meant we had to skip some of the long-anticipated highlights of Antwerp. But it also means I’ll just have to return some day. And I most certainly will because Antwerp is beautiful, energetic, easy to get around and who can complain about a city where diamonds sparkle from window fronts all along the main streets of town?
The Netherlands highways are flat, smooth and easy to navigate – so I’m thrilled I’ll be returning next summer for a month! I’m swapping my home with a family from Utrecht. So, yes, while I am a total twirp for missing most of Antwerp, I’ll definitely get to re-visit in Summer 2016 and I’ll be just 90 minutes away. Here’s a look at my view from the passenger seat as we approached Antwerp – note the wind turbine. You are much more likely to see a wind turbine than a windmill when visiting the Netherlands.
It’s easy to get around on public transportation in most European cities. Signs such as this streetcar map dot the streetscape. When you see one of these, you know transport is nearby. Look down! Often you take stairs down to the trains and street cars.
We parked near the train station because the train station was a must see attraction. The “temple to the industrial age” was built in 1900 and still stuns.
We were hoping to see Paul Ruben’s home and we did. We saw it but had no time to stay. This is what we should have seen: “Wander through the rich kunstkamer (art room), where Rubens indulged his passion for collecting, the studio where he changed the direction of art, and the garden in which he strolled with important visitors. But there is also the parlour, the kitchen, bedroom and linen room. They are furnished with everything a family would need. After all, an artist’s house is also a home” (www.rubenshuis.be). So, again, next summer!
We also missed the Cathedral of Our Lady and the RubensDescent from the Cross. However, we had contradictory information and the painting may not have been at the church when we were there and it was already returned to the Royal Museums of Fine Arts Antwerp. Either way, you can bet I’ll track that painting down next summer. This kind of hunt for paintings happened often during our travels due to loans (there’s a marvelous exhibit of Dutch painters at the Boston Museum of Art which explains the spaces on the walls of museums we visited) and remodeling (in one German city all the paintings we wanted to see were in one room of the museum while the top floor was remodeled). And, once in a great while, a painting has been repatriated to its proper owner (the gorgeous Klimt Adele Bloch-Bauer that once hung in the Vienna Belvedere and now can be seen at the NYC Neue Galerie). I watched the movie Woman in Gold on our Norwegian flight to Europe and then again on the Disney Cruise ship home – you must see this movie! Meanwhile, here’s the Cathedral of Our Lady:
So when you think Antwerp, do you think diamonds? It’s hard not to have sparkle on your mind as you walk from the train station down the fabulous shopping street de Kyserlei. In the top image, that’s my reflection in the middle of the photo with a gorgeous diamond necklace on my shoulder. I truly believe it belongs around my neck.
Many of the diamond sellers are Hasidic Jews, a branch of Orthodox Judaism. My friend Rachel told me Jewish people often deal in portable goods. Here’s one man, I presume a diamond seller, texting on the street outside a diamond store.
Here are some of the beautiful stores I want to visit next summer. That marvelous turretted building? Armani Jeans. The next fabulous building? H&M. And next, you can see the shopping strollers in front of Zara Home. Last, just the entry over the door to a store. OMG! No time this trip but there definitely will be time next summer.
The stores look graffitti-free but the public statues are another matter. Here’s Antoon Van Dyck with graffitti flourishes. I wonder if this 17th century portrait genius would appreciate the modern art?
Antoon Van Dyck
The graffitti artists don’t seem as interested in David Teniers, painter of peasants from the 17th century.
David Teniers
I remember a time when visiting Europe where eating meant stopping at a restaurant and spending hours over a leisurely meal. Not so much today. Food carts and quick food stands are everywhere making “dine and dash” possible. I miss the old days but see a lot more now with food on the run. Here’s a cart selling yummies at the train station. Imagine bicycling your cart to work each day.
This is Belgium so there must be waffles, no? Yes!
And, of course, Asian fusion food is huge, even in Antwerp. Here’s a restaurant getting ready for the day.
Would you expect to find a Mexican restaurant in Antwerp? I was surprised!
And when you are all done, remember to recycle. Recyling is big throughout Europe and passersby will give you the stink-eye if you fail to recycle. However, I do believe most of those folks giving us the eye were also tourists.
Then there is the clean up. Folks clean the underground stations with these mini-Zamboni-like machines. The floors gleam.
I’m a twirp with a plan – see you, Antwerp, next summer!
