The Parlamentarium is the visitors center for the Parliament of the European Union. It’s fresh, interesting and a must see when you visit Europe if you want to gain a better understanding of Europe and it’s place in the world.
The Parliamentarium is located on a large plaza surrounded by tall, glass buildings in the new part of Brussels. I always think of Brussels as old stone buildings and gilt so I was surprised to see soaring blue glass office buildings in the downtown. Once I realized that the old town is more for tourists and shopping in Brussels and the new town is for government and business, I began to discover this split in cities throughout Europe. Of course Europe is new and vibrant. It just had never registered with my view of the old country.
I absolutely loved the Parliamentarium. Because of my visit, I better understand the roots of the European Union. The EU is so much more than open borders and common currency.
I took subways across town from the Grand Place. As I walked uphill from the subway stop for Parliament, I passed numerous offices for the members of Parliament and the member countries. For example, here’s the front door to Hungary’s offices. These offices remind me of the embassies in Washington, DC. It makes sense that each country would need their own offices; I just had not considered that before.
As you continue your uphill walk, tall buildings break away to reveal a large plaza and the Parliamentarium. It’s a big, modern building made of glass that glows blue in the mid-day sun. A large digital screen tells you that you have arrived at the Parliamentarium.
Inspiration begins in the plaza with a shiny black monument on the ground just outside the front doors of the Parliamentarium. The plaque quotes the words of Father Joseph Wresinski, a priest who worked with the very poorest people of France beginning in 1956. He, himself, had grown up in poverty and social exclusion and he wanted better for his parishioners. Father Wresinski founded ATD Fourth World to layer evidence on top of soup kitchens and clothing distribution centers to provide research into extreme poverty. “Father Joseph’s firm purpose was to unite all sections of society around the very poorest (http://www.joseph-wresinski.org/Father-Joseph-Wresinski.html). The plaque in Belgium displays the same words as a plaque in the Trocadero Human Rights Plaza in Paris:
“Wherever men and women are condemned to live in poverty, human rights are violated. To come together to ensure that these rights be respected is our solemn duty.”
An unusual information/monument stood just outside the doors of the Parliamentarium, honoring Andrei Dmitrievich Sakharov, the Russian nuclear physicist, Soviet dissident and human rights activist. “The father of the Soviet hydrogen bomb, Andrei Sakharov, was awarded the Peace Prize in 1975 for his opposition to the abuse of power and his work for human rights” (Nobelprize.org). The words under the letter “S” say:
Shortly after winning the Nobel Peace Prize, Sakharov said, “International confidence, mutual understanding, disarmament and international security are inconceivable without freedom of information, freedom of conscience, the right to publish, the right to travel and the right to choose the country in which one wishes to live. Like Andrei Sakharov, the European Parliament strives to ensure that every citizen should have the right to form an opinion and live in a democracy.” The Sakharov Prize, which is awarded annually by the European Parliament for people and organizations dedicated to human rights and freedoms, is named in his honour (Wikipedia).
To enter the free Parliamentarium, I had to go through a body scan and bag check, typical of public buildings in Europe. Also typical, was a large locker area where I could stow my backpack and freshen up in sparkling clean restrooms.
Once inside, the teaching continued as I walked down a very long hallway hung with large posters that framed questions currently under consideration by the European Parliament: immigration, food, the seas.
Light-up models showed where the official buildings of the European Union are located in Europe with buildings in Brussels, Strasbourg and Luxembourg. The Parliamentarium website says, “Dynamic, interactive multimedia displays guide our visitors through the journey of European integration and the impact this has on our everyday lives. The Centre caters to all 24 official languages of the European Union and admission is free. The facilities have been designed to make them fully accessible to those with special needs.”
Signage within the Parliamentarium explain how the European Union was conceived and how it operates today.
When I visited the Nobel Peace Museum in Oslo two years ago, I learned that the European Union was not about a common currency and open borders – those were just artifacts of the European Union. The EU is about peace. The people of Europe were already talking about the importance of a union in the early 1900’s. The two plaques above quoted the dreams of two of Europe’s leaders.
A moving exhibit of WWII showed the horrors of war, including measuring faces to see if they met Arian standards.
That exhibit of ugliness was countermanded by an exhibit of the liberation of Europe.
I got to see photos on exhibit that I had never seen before and it was joyous to see the liberation through the eyes of Europeans.
The educational spaces of the Parliamentarium were state of the art with high tech lighting and electronic displays. In one rather odd display you ducked into a lamp-shade-like structure and read about people and ideas particular to the EU.
This is a display of the delegates to the European Parliament. Members come from 28 member states. Together they work out compromises and enact laws for the whole EU. I could read about the EU in six different printed languages but was happy to stick with English.
I sat in a replica of the parliamentary chamber and listened to debate about an issue important to the EU – then I got to vote on it as if I were a delegate. What a learning opportunity!
This was a really cool life size game. Players took control of a podium and read instructions on a case scenario. Then the players moved their podiums around the room to confront or compromise with other member countries. It was like an individualized Model UN.
An American? Who knows? I often could not tell the Americans from the Europeans.
You can virtually visit the Parliamentarium. The website includes virtual visits and deeper explanations of their purpose. This was one of my very favorite stops in Europe – equal to visiting the US Capitol Building. Don’t miss it.
The Grand Place (The Grote Markt) is the centerpiece of Brussels. Tourists twirl around the center of the square, snapping photos and shooting video. Gold gilt trims the fairy-tale scene. Graceful statues hunch into the facades of heavy, curleycued buildings. Look up! Winged sculptures balance on the rooftops. You can’t go wrong taking pictures here – every angle in every direction is photogenic. Now add to all this beauty the gentle waft of sugar: waffles and chocolate tickle your nose as you walk through the square. This is like cuddling with sugar plum fairies on Christmas eve.
There’s another side to Brussels equally enchanting. It’s the European Union Parliament located on the other side of Brussels. I mean, really? Gold, chocolate AND power? It’s enough to make a girl swoon.
Let’s start with my main reason for visiting Brussels: the European Parliament. Then I’ll move on to fantasy, shopping and dessert. My daughter Megan has taught me how to spell dessert – as opposed to desert – there are more s’s in dessert because you always want more. Maybe that’s why Brussel has two s’s – I want more!
European Union Parliament
The Parlamentarium is located two transfers by subway from the central train station. It’s the visitors center for the Parliament of the European Union. A friendly gentleman on the train helped me switch trains and then got off at the last stop to walk me towards the Parliamentarium.
The Parliamentarium is located on a large plaza surrounded by tall, glass buildings in the new part of Brussels. I always think of Brussels as old stone buildings and gilt so I was surprised to see soaring blue glass office buildings in the downtown. Once I realized that the old town is more for tourists and shopping and the new town is for business, I began to discover this split in cities throughout Europe. Of course Europe is new and vibrant. It just had never registered with my view of the old country.
I absolutely loved the Parliamentarium. Because of my visit, I better understand the roots of the European Union. The EU is so much more than open borders and common currency. It’s about peace. Because I report on the Parliamentarium extensively, I’ve created a separate blog. If you wish to read more, please visit Parliamentarium.
Security was visible throughout the city and I always felt safe everywhere I walked, even when I was alone at night.
Streets of Brussels
You can buy anything in Brussels as long as it is beautiful or it’s chocolate. There are more small shops than big made-in-China stores. The shops are intriguing with winding interiors and rich appointments. Each shop tries to be more inviting than its neighbors, drawing customers in with a mix of luxury, whimsy and quality.
This is a view from high up a hill overlooking the city. I am standing in the plaza of the Mont des Arts, an area heavily laden with museums and galleries. No time for a visit this time around but I will be back! You can see the spire of the Brussels Town Hall right in the center of the photo.
We met two American women traveling together who were absolutely charmed by Brussels. They gave us tips on shopping and sightseeing and pointed the way down long flights of stone stairs and twisting streets to reach the chocolate center of Brussels. They were smitten by the city and wished us well.
Right next to where I was standing in the photo above is this building in Brussels featuring the clock mont de arts. Characters were built into the wall around the clock, a bell on the roof rang the hour, and a man with a cane stands next to the bell but I have no idea why. He is called the Jaquemart. A series of bells ring the hour and at 12:00 the figures used to come out of their niches. They don’t do that any more but it is still a beautiful clock.
Right across from where I am standing at the city overlook, this plaque was mounted on the wall. It recognized the Jews of Belgium who were persecuted during the Nazi occupation.
Just to the left of the plaque slept a homeless person bundled in a pink blanket. His dog slept nearby on the plaza. (He could have been a tourist without reservations but he looked liked he was pretty settled in and no one bothered him as he slept in the early morning sunshine.)
As I descended the plaza, I got to walk under this canopy of trees in the long park that leads to the Grote Markt. People were setting up long tables covered with cloths under the trees. I got the feeling they were setting up for a wedding feast but perhaps it was just an outdoor cafe setting up for the day. Chocolate called so we did not stick around to see.
The Grote Markt is the central square of Brussels. The Grote Markt is Brussels’ Grand Place. EVERY building is gorgeous and coated in flourishes and gilt. You can turn in a full circle from the center of the Market and see nothing but beautiful gold and stone. You would think it could not get better than that, but as you turn, your nose picks up the scent of chocolate wafting from every corner of the square. This is, indeed, a grand place!
Comic strips and street signs
These images are a sample of the many signs posted high above eye level throughout Brussels.
The image above is for the Strip Feest – a celebration of comic strips. Belgium is known for its love of comic strips (some call it the comic capital of the world) and the Smurfs are huge hits here. You can buy a map at the train station that shows you where to find comics and comic graffiti; it costs about 50 cents. I prefer the chocolate tour.
Buildings of Brussels
So much time, so little to do. Wait. Scratch that. (Willy Wonka.) Thank goodness it was Sunday and these buildings were closed. There just was not enough time to see everything in less than a day. Still, we admired the architecture as we quickly walked by.
One smart thing we did was to start at the top of Brussels and walk downhill through the city. It was hot and humid on this last day of August and at least we had gravity on our side.
The subway is fast, safe and clean. The Jump ticket is just 7 Euros for all-day transportation.
The cars are open one to another so when riding on the subway, you can look forward and back and see every part of the train…..except when the train goes around corners. Then it’s pretty strange to lose sight of the front or the back of the carriage and have to wait for it to “catch up” with the rest of the train.
See that little red box in the photo above? You have to punch that button to open the doors of the train. Some of the older cars had handles but most had the push button feature.
Musée Royaux des Beaux Arts
We were traveling fast but did not want to miss the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. It was an easy trip across town on tram 38 using my JUMP pass. The grounds were burned out from the heat of the summer but people still lounged on the crisp lawn and visited with one another.
I always map out the paintings I want to see so I can move quickly through the museums I visit and not regret missing something important during my rush. In addition to ancient 14th-18th art, I scheduled myself to see a Jacques-Louis David painting:
This painting is housed in Belgium because the artist David took it with him when he was exiled from Paris after the fall of Napoleon. David, the master painter of the rich and powerful in Paris, supported Marat, a radical journalist and a leader of the French Revolution. Marat had more than 200,000 of his political enemies executed on the guillotine before 24-year-old Charlotte Corday snuck into his bath and stabbed him to death to stop the killings. Corday was guillotined the day after Marat’s funeral. David gave this painting to the Republicans but when they turned their backs on Marat two years later, they returned the painting to David. David then became a Napoleon supporter but was ousted to Belgium when Napoleon fell. (thanks to 149 Paintings you really need to see in Europe).
This is why I love old art so much. You can admire the painterly olive green blanket contrasting the deathly palor of Marat’s skin but there’s also a story behind the painting. It’s what the artist does with the story that I find so fascinating. In life Marat had a terrible skin disease and withered arms but David painted a flawless, robust body to honor the man because Marat’s supporters “want to see again the features of their faithful friend” (Jacques-Louis David).
“Manneken Pis is a landmark small bronze sculpture in Brussels, depicting a naked little boy urinating into a fountain’s basin. It was designed by Hiëronymus Duquesnoy the Elder and put in place in 1618 or 1619” (Wikipedia).
We had to walk a long way to find this little statue of a pissing boy. There did not seem to be a direct route from the beautiful Grot Markt to the statue. The streets turned along curved rows of buildings or seemed to be located around graceful squares. That meant there was no sight-line to see a clear path to where we wanted to go. This is what it looked like as we searched for a small pissing boy in a courtyard nook:
This is a pretty typical street view with cobbled walkways. Those cobblestones are tough on the feet and ankles! But the streets and walkways are immaculate. Scaffolding such as that seen on the building above is everywhere in Brussels. I think they must be rebuilding the whole city.
When we found Mannekin Pis, he was dressed in a Spanish costume. Remember how it used to be the rage to dress geese back in the 80’s? Apparently little boy Pis is dressed for special occassions and you never know exactly what he’ll be wearing on any given day. Manneken Pis is so popular that he’s even made out of chocolate and china and sold as a souvenir. Having raised two boys and having cleaned a fair share of bathroom floors where the boys missed sinking the cheerios in the toilet bowl, I’m left wondering, what’s the attraction?
Along the way we saw lots of souvenirs for Mannekin Pis. I took photos but made no purchases.
We started out our day by shopping the Sablon antique market, the oldest antique market in Europe. The market is held in the shadow of Notre Dame au Sablon. This market featured about 100 booths with exquisite merchandise matched with somewhat high prices. Alas, no room in our luggage.
Notre Dame au Sablon (The Churck of Our Lady of Sablon)
You didn’t think I’d visit a city and not visit at least one church, did you? Here you see Notre Dame au Sablon, the church of Our Lady of Sablon. Built in the 15th century, this church was once used by the wealthy and the noblemen of Brussels.
I approached the church early on a Sunday morning and thought it was closed until I noticed a person walking out a funny side door set at a 90 degree angle to the ornate huge entrance doors, which were locked. I pushed on the little side door, stumbled into the church, and discovered a cavernous space heavily decorated with ornate church items: chairs, statues, and a massive organ.
I’ve heard that the Renaissance churches where built to inspire people to believe in God through Gospel stories often told in stained glass (most people could not read and books were costly). The organ was large and loud, meant to remind you of the voice of God. I like to imagine a young priest telling the story of, say, Daniel in the lion’s den, as he points from one image to the next to illustrate his story. When his story is finished, the organ comes alive, inspiring believers to understand the glorious rewards that await them in heaven.
Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries
The Royal Saint-Hubert Galleries reminded me very much of Cleveland’s downtown galleries, built about the same time in the USA. Both galleries have small shops on the lower floors and housing on the higher floors.
An informational sign at the Galleries said:
“Designed as a connection between two commercial poles, this monumental covered gallery was one of the first of this size built in Europe. Inaugurated in 1847, the Galleries were designed in 1838 by J. P. Cluysenaar. Both street and monument, the Galleries fulfilled commercial as well as housing functions and also had a social and cultural dimension, notably housing two theaters. Built in Italian Renaissance style, they also bear witness to the prowess and the innovations of steel and glass architecture.”
The best part of the galleries was lots of little chocolate shops.
Chocolate and Waffles
Were you reading through all my Brussels report just to get to the chocolate? I wish I could wrap up a piece of this deep chocolate treasure and hand it to you right through the internet. Instead, you’ll just have to see my photos and imagine fresh, sweet creamy fillings dipped into pure chocolate that is barely firm at room temperature. It truly was as good as it looks plus each little packet of chocolate was exquisitely packaged, making a doubly delightful gift.
We created our own chocolate crawl which was super easy to do because chocolate was sold everywhere! You can watch people making chocolate but most store clerks seemed to busy to stop to answer questions. Here are some of the shops we stopped by: Godiva, at #22, Neuhaus, at #27, Gallery at Rue au Beurre #44 (just off the marketsquare), Leonidas at Rue au Beurre #34.
Woman cannot live on chocolate alone, and so waffles were invented. Light, sweet, and totally yummy. They’re also a real bargain at about 1 Euro each.
Government in important in Brussels and huge, concrete buildings house government for both Belgium and the EU.
High-rise housing is under construction throughout Europe including this complex in Brussels.
Motorcycles and small cars are popular for moving quickly through the cities. Since we visited on a Sunday, the streets were not crowded with commercial traffic but we did get to see a contemporary enclosed motorcycle.
If you want to mail cards and letters, look for a little postbox like this one.
So here I am in this gorgeous country with civil residents who graciously share their tidy city. Not only is it home to chocolate and extravagant buildings…. Belgium is also the place where five people choose to die each day with medical assistance.
In 2013, 1,800 people chose euthanasia; in 2014, the chance for euthanasia was extended to terminally ill children. I have a difficult time squaring euthanasia with the gentle charm of Belgium. It’s hard to know I may be biting into the most extraordinarily delicious piece of chocolate and as it melts in my mouth, a human being is choosing to die just down the road. I’m not saying you should live for chocolate; I’m saying I just don’t understand. I need to think about this some more.
Brussels is a destination for high end shopping and we stopped in many, many stores as we explored the city. These are a few of the shops we tucked into during our day in Brussels.
Train station – we’re going to France!
Brussels was actually just a stop over on our way to a week in France. Since we only scheduled a day here and I loved every moment, Brussels is at the top of my list for a re-visit in summer 2016.
We traveled the high speed trains from Rotterdam to Brussels (1 1/4 hours) and on to Paris (1 1/2 hours). The trains are sleek, comfortable, and fast. Really good Tourist Information (TI) stands are located in convenient locations like the train station. The attendants are courteous and well informed, making it easy to figure out our best options for tickets.
It is super easy to navigate the huge train station with information signs in English and video monitor signs in multiple languages. This sign, for example, tells passengers how to find their train car so they can quickly board once the train arrives.
You examine your ticket and then look at the sign to find where to stand on the platform.
When the train rushes into the station, you are standing at the ready with your luggage and just hop onto your car. Easy peasy.
If you want to work off a little energy while charging your cell phone before boarding your train, you might want to try one of these bicycle-rechargers.
Or if you need snacks for your train ride, there’s a well-stocked convenience store with lots of selection including fresh foods.
Make sure to visit my blog on the Parliamentarium – it’s one of my very favorite memories of Brussels.
We got off to a late start from Wassenaar, putting us way behind our plans when we arrived in Antwerp. This meant we had to skip some of the long-anticipated highlights of Antwerp. But it also means I’ll just have to return some day. And I most certainly will because Antwerp is beautiful, energetic, easy to get around and who can complain about a city where diamonds sparkle from window fronts all along the main streets of town?
The Netherlands highways are flat, smooth and easy to navigate – so I’m thrilled I’ll be returning next summer for a month! I’m swapping my home with a family from Utrecht. So, yes, while I am a total twirp for missing most of Antwerp, I’ll definitely get to re-visit in Summer 2016 and I’ll be just 90 minutes away. Here’s a look at my view from the passenger seat as we approached Antwerp – note the wind turbine. You are much more likely to see a wind turbine than a windmill when visiting the Netherlands.
It’s easy to get around on public transportation in most European cities. Signs such as this streetcar map dot the streetscape. When you see one of these, you know transport is nearby. Look down! Often you take stairs down to the trains and street cars.
We parked near the train station because the train station was a must see attraction. The “temple to the industrial age” was built in 1900 and still stuns.
We were hoping to see Paul Ruben’s home and we did. We saw it but had no time to stay. This is what we should have seen: “Wander through the rich kunstkamer (art room), where Rubens indulged his passion for collecting, the studio where he changed the direction of art, and the garden in which he strolled with important visitors. But there is also the parlour, the kitchen, bedroom and linen room. They are furnished with everything a family would need. After all, an artist’s house is also a home” (www.rubenshuis.be). So, again, next summer!
We also missed the Cathedral of Our Lady and the RubensDescent from the Cross. However, we had contradictory information and the painting may not have been at the church when we were there and it was already returned to the Royal Museums of Fine Arts Antwerp. Either way, you can bet I’ll track that painting down next summer. This kind of hunt for paintings happened often during our travels due to loans (there’s a marvelous exhibit of Dutch painters at the Boston Museum of Art which explains the spaces on the walls of museums we visited) and remodeling (in one German city all the paintings we wanted to see were in one room of the museum while the top floor was remodeled). And, once in a great while, a painting has been repatriated to its proper owner (the gorgeous Klimt Adele Bloch-Bauer that once hung in the Vienna Belvedere and now can be seen at the NYC Neue Galerie). I watched the movie Woman in Gold on our Norwegian flight to Europe and then again on the Disney Cruise ship home – you must see this movie! Meanwhile, here’s the Cathedral of Our Lady:
So when you think Antwerp, do you think diamonds? It’s hard not to have sparkle on your mind as you walk from the train station down the fabulous shopping street de Kyserlei. In the top image, that’s my reflection in the middle of the photo with a gorgeous diamond necklace on my shoulder. I truly believe it belongs around my neck.
Many of the diamond sellers are Hasidic Jews, a branch of Orthodox Judaism. My friend Rachel told me Jewish people often deal in portable goods. Here’s one man, I presume a diamond seller, texting on the street outside a diamond store.
Here are some of the beautiful stores I want to visit next summer. That marvelous turretted building? Armani Jeans. The next fabulous building? H&M. And next, you can see the shopping strollers in front of Zara Home. Last, just the entry over the door to a store. OMG! No time this trip but there definitely will be time next summer.
The stores look graffitti-free but the public statues are another matter. Here’s Antoon Van Dyck with graffitti flourishes. I wonder if this 17th century portrait genius would appreciate the modern art?
The graffitti artists don’t seem as interested in David Teniers, painter of peasants from the 17th century.
I remember a time when visiting Europe where eating meant stopping at a restaurant and spending hours over a leisurely meal. Not so much today. Food carts and quick food stands are everywhere making “dine and dash” possible. I miss the old days but see a lot more now with food on the run. Here’s a cart selling yummies at the train station. Imagine bicycling your cart to work each day.
This is Belgium so there must be waffles, no? Yes!
And, of course, Asian fusion food is huge, even in Antwerp. Here’s a restaurant getting ready for the day.
Would you expect to find a Mexican restaurant in Antwerp? I was surprised!
And when you are all done, remember to recycle. Recyling is big throughout Europe and passersby will give you the stink-eye if you fail to recycle. However, I do believe most of those folks giving us the eye were also tourists.
Then there is the clean up. Folks clean the underground stations with these mini-Zamboni-like machines. The floors gleam.
I’m a twirp with a plan – see you, Antwerp, next summer!